Atlanta Inspection News! Consumer information: September 2008

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta- www.Findmeaninspector.com

Many groups and individuals are proposing that our government spend tax money on research and development of systems to utilize solar energy. They urge construction of vast solar energy collectors to convert sunlight to electricity to supply our energy needs. They would even put solar collectors on roofs of homes, factories, schools, and other buildings. Proponents of this technology claim that energy obtained from the sun will be safer and cleaner than coal, oil, or nuclear energy sources.

We view these proposals with alarm. Unscrupulous scientists and greedy promoters are hoodwinking a gullible public. We consider it rash and dangerous to commit our country to the use of solar energy. This solar technology has never been utilized on such a large scale, and we have no assurance of its long-range safety. Not one single study has been done to assess the safety of electricity from solar energy as compared to electricity from other sources.

The promoters of solar energy cleverly lead you to believe that it is perfectly safe. Yet they conveniently neglect to mention that solar energy is generated by nuclear fusion within the sun. This process operates on the very same basic laws of nuclear physics used in nuclear power plants and atomic bombs!

And what is the source of this energy? It is hydrogen, a highly explosive gas (remember the Hindenberg?) Hydrogen is also the active material in H-bombs, that are not only tremendously destructive, but produce dangerous fallout. The glib advocates of solar energy don't even mention these disturbing facts about the true sources of solar energy. What else are they trying to hide from us?

In addition to the known dangers cited above, what about the unknown dangers, that very well might be worse? When pressed, scientists will admit that they do not fully understand the workings of the sun, or even of the atom. They will even grudgingly admit that our knowledge of the basic laws of physics is not yet perfect or complete. Yet these same reckless scientists would have us use this solar technology even before we fully understand how it works.

Admittedly we are already subject to a natural `background' radiation from the sun. We can do little about that, except to stay out of direct sunlight as much as possible. The evidence is already clear that too much exposure to sunlight can cause skin cancer. But solar collectors would concentrate that sunlight (that otherwise would have fallen harmlessly on waste land), convert it to electricity and pipe it into our homes to irradiate us from every light bulb! We would then not even be safe from this cancer-producing energy even in our own homes!

We all know that looking at the sun for even a few seconds can cause blindness. What long term health hazards might result from reading by light derived from solar energy? We now spend large amounts of time looking at the light from television monitors or computer screens, and one can only imagine the possible long-term consequences of this exposure when the screens are powered with electricity from solar collectors. Will we develop cataracts, or slowly go blind? Not one medical study has yet addressed itself to this question, and none are planned.

In their blind zeal to plug us in to solar energy, scientists seem to totally ignore possible fire hazards of solar energy. Sunlight reaching us directly from the sun at naturally safe levels poses little fire threat. But all one has to do is concentrate sunlight, with a simple burning- glass, and it readily ignites combustible materials. Who would feel safe with solar energy concentrators on their roof? Could we afford the fire insurance rates?

These scientists, and the big corporations that employ them, stand to profit greatly from construction of solar-power stations. No wonder they try to hide the dangers of the technology and suppress any open discussion of them.

Proponents of solar energy present facts, figures and graphs to support their claim that energy from the sun will be less expensive, as conventional fuel supplies dwindle and technology of solar energy systems improves. But even if this is so, what will stop the solar energy equipment manufacturers and solar power companies from raising prices when they achieve a monopoly and other fuel sources disappear?

Of course every technology has risks. We might be willing to tolerate some small risk-if solar energy really represented a permanent solution to our energy problems. But that is not the case. At best, solar energy is only a temporary band-aid. Recent calculations indicate that the "Sun Will Go Out in a Billion Years As Its Fuel Runs Out" (Source: newspaper headline) As that calculation was made a year ago, we now have only nine-hundred ninety-nine million, nine-hundred ninety-nine thousand, nine-hundred and ninety-nine years left during which we could use solar energy. Wouldn't it be better to put our human resources and scientific brains to work to find a safer and more permanent solution to our energy needs?

(c) 1978, 1994 by Donald E. Simanek, Lock Haven University, Lock Haven, PA 17745.

Before sending comments, read this additional information about this important issue.

Return to Donald Simanek's page.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

Consumer Information:

Preventing moisture from reaching high levels in your house is the simplest and easiest way to prevent mold. There are several no-cost and low-cost ways to do it.

If your house has a crawl space with a dirt floor, cover the floor with a continuous sheet of 6-mil polyethylene.
Make sure water from your roof goes away from your house by leading downspouts away from the foundation.
 
Ensure that the ground around your house slopes away from the house.
 
When you shower or bathe,use the bathroom fan;allow it to run for 15 minutes or longer. Bathroom and kitchen fans should exhaust outside. When cooking, use the kitchen fan to get rid of moisture and odours.
 
Areas of your house below grade, such as the basement or crawl space, usually have higher relative humidity than grade-level and above-grade floors. If you have a basement, use a dehumidifier and run it from spring until fall with the basement windows closed. Run a dehumidifier in your basement, even if you have an air conditioner. Remember that an air conditioner dehumidifies only when it is running.
 
Do not humidify unless absolutely necessary. First, measure the relative humidity with a hygrometer. Readings of 25 to 35 per cent relative humidity in the winter are acceptable.

If you need humidity at night, use a portable humidifier in your bedroom. Monitor the relative humidity and cycle the unit on and off as necessary. Air the room out to dry during the day. Clean the humidifier after each use.
 
Don't keep unused materials and furnishings in your basement. Materials such as paper, cardboard and clothing absorb moisture and can grow mold. Store as little paper, cardboard and clothing items as possible in your basement and keep them off floors and walls.

Carpets in the basement or bathroom are likely places for molds to grow. It is best not to have carpets in these areas.
 
Don't hang clothes to dry in the basement. Use your clothes dryer and make sure it is vented to the outside. Do not store firewood inside the house.
 
Do not leave areas of the house unheated. Cold, unheated or damp areas in the house are likely to get moldy. Excessive thermostat setbacks at night also encourage mold growth. Act immediately if you have a leak or a flood.

Clean up small areas of mold yourself, following CMHC's Clean up procedures for mold in houses or Fighting mold: The homeowner's guide. Get professional help if there is a lot of mold.
Consult CMHC's The clean air guide to deal with dirt floors, crawl spaces and cold cellars.
Reducing chemical contaminants

Contamination from common household chemicals can be a threat both to people with asthma and to people who do not have asthma.

Do not paint or renovate when the house is closed up. Use only new, low-odour paints and check that the paint is not spoiled before using. Test paint before using it to make sure it does not leave a residual odour. See CMHC's Building materials for the environmentally hypersensitive for information about paints.

Remove sources of chemical odours, such as perfumes and furniture made of particleboard, medium-density fibreboard, plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) from your bedroom. Use hardwood furniture and flooring made of solid hardwood rather than pressed or laminated wood. Do not store paints, lacquers and solvents inside your house. There are no quick ways to making your house a contaminant-free house. Ozone generators are not recommended, because ozone is an irritant that may aggravate asthma.The effectiveness of ozone to control mold and other pollutants is questionable.

Similarly, portable air cleaners may not solve all your indoor air problems. The recommended approach is to find the sources of contaminants and remove or reduce them.

 

 

Although the conventional human health toxicity of natural gas has been assumed to be low, many people with chemical sensitivities react extremely adversely in the presence of even minute traces of natural gas. This adverse reaction may either be owing to impurities or odourants in the gas, or to the gas itself. Methane, the main component of natural gas, is believed to have low conventional toxicity but is an asphyxiant. Inhalation of high concentrations of methane can cause symptoms ranging from a craving for fresh air, rapid and irregular breathing, headache, fatigue and exhaustion, to loss of consciousness, convulsions and death from hypoxemia (Environment Canada 1984:56-7). In most of the population, lower concentrations of methane (5% in air) create no systemic effects. Skin contact of liquid natural gas may cause frostbite (Environment Canada 1984:57). The exact effects of low levels of methane on people with heightened chemical sensitivities are not documented, but are reported to be severe in clinical accounts of individuals with sensitivities. It is not uncommon for individuals with chemical sensitivities to react adversely to levels of natural gas at the threshhold of chemical detection ability.

The use of natural gas in the home, as fuel for heating or cooking, is a health issue for healthy individuals and especially for people with environmental illnesses, allergies, and chemical sensitivities. The concentration of combustion products from natural gas appliances in indoor environments has wide-ranging health consequences. Furthermore, the natural gas itself causes adverse reactions in sensitive individuals.

Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is a highly toxic compound present in some natural gas deposits. During its removal from the sales gas, the refinery process emits sulfur dioxide and hydrogen sulfide into the air. There is epidemiological evidence that this has adverse effects on children's respiratory systems.

Some natural gas deposits have a high concentration of hydrogen sulfide (H2S), which poses significant environmental and health concerns. Hydrogen sulfide is a colourless, highly toxic gas with a strong smell of rotten eggs (Gosselin et al 1984:198). It is produced naturally by decaying organic matter, and is also released from sewage sludge, oil refineries, liquid manure, sulphur hot springs, and natural gas.

Human toxicity of hydrogen sulfide: H2S is toxic in concentrations as low as 50 ppm, and concentrations of 0.1-0.2% are usually fatal within minutes (Gosselin et al 1984:199). Since the body has a mechanism for detoxifying sulfide, toxicity of H2S is related more to concentration than length of exposure (Gosselin 1984:199).

Although H2S has a strong odour, continual low level exposure leads to loss of the sense of smell. This makes it possible for humans to be unknowingly exposed to dangerous levels. Low level of H2S result in irritation of the eyes, nose and throat. Moderate levels can cause headache, dizziness, vomiting, as well as cough and difficulty in breathing. High levels can cause shock, convulsions, coma and death. Survivors of acute toxic exposure to H2S sometimes experience neurological dysfunction, such as amnesia, tremor, disturbance of equilibrium, or more serious brain damage, as well as persistent ill-health following exposure (Gosselin 1984:200). Although acute toxicity for higher concentrations of H2S is established, there are few studies on chronic low level exposure to H2S (Schechter 1989). This is a serious deficiency.

Accidental release of concentrated H2S may result from infrequent blowouts of natural gas wells which have high levels of H2S. Although the risk is low, the acute toxicity of H2S implies that this may have a serious affect on the health of nearby human populations.Radioactive radon and radium are present in natural gas. Radon is known to contribute to the development of lung cancer. Using natural gas as a fuel source in the home can increase the total concentration of indoor radon.

Naturally Occurring Radioactive Material (NORM) is found in soil, water, petroleum, natural gas, coal, lignite, phosphate, geothermal waste, wastewater, humans and animals . One of the most common NORMs is radon (Rn222), a colourless, odourless gas produced from Radium decay and a decay product of radioactive uranium. Ra226 has half life of 1,602 years, while radon has a short half-life of only 3.8 days, after which it emits 4 highly reactive "radon daughters".

Radon is commonly found in natural gas deposits, ground water and soil, and is a common indoor air contaminant in basements where it seeps through the foundation and is concentrated in enclosed spaces. Nova Scotians are already exposed to radon in soil and water. Because of the geology of Nova Scotia, it is highly likely that natural gas deposits off Sable Island also contain high levels of radium and radon. Household use of natural gas containing radon is a human health issue. When used in the home, natural gas may be a source of radon exposure because it is released upon burning . The levels of radon in gas in the home depends on the concentration of radon in the gas deposit as well as the distance of the source of gas from the home. The level of radon in sales gas decreases with distance from the natural gas deposit because of its short half-life of 3.8 days, when half will deposit as lead in the pipes before reaching the homes.

Sulfur-containing odourants are added to sales gas to enable leaks to be detected by scent. Although these odours are present at concentrations which are not considered toxic to most individuals, their odour can cause nausea and headaches in healthy individuals. The reaction to these odourants is likely to be much more severe in people with chemical sensitivities.

Because natural gas itself has no odour, small amounts of odourants are added to the sales gas so that gas leaks can be recognised before concentrations reach a dangerously flammable or explosive level (intended concentration is such that odour will be detected at approximately one-fifth of the lower flammability limit, or about 4-24 grams of odourant per km3 gas (Environment Canada 1984:30). These odourants are sulfur compounds, and include mercaptans (ethyl mercaptan (methanethiol), methyl mercaptan, isopropyl mercaptan, T-butyl mercaptan), thioesthers and thioaromatics (Environment Canada 1984:30). The potential toxicity of these odourants raises issues concerning the safety of the use of natural gas in homes, especially for people with multiple chemical sensitivities. Adequate testing on odourant toxicity has not been conducted using people with chemical sensitivity. This should be part of the impacts assessment of the proposed Sable pipeline project. AEHA-NS requests for funding for such testing were denied.

Mercaptans are a common air contaminant. They contain sulfur and are able to capture elemental mercury. Exposure to Mercaptan odours can cause nausea or headaches. In high concentrations, mercaptans can cause cold extremities and rapid pulse, and may induce unconsciousness with cyanosis (Sax and Lewis 1987:600), or even death (Gosselin et al 1984:116). Mercaptans are dangerous when heated to decomposition because they emit highly toxic SOx fumes. Furthermore, they will react with water, steam or acids to produce toxic and flammable vapours, and can react violently with oxidizing compounds.

Methanethiol (also known as methylmercaptan, mercaptomethane, thiomethyl alcohol) is a mercaptan gas which is commonly used as an odourant in natural gas. Its unpleasant odour is detectable by most people at 1 part in 140 million, however it may be detected at much smaller concentrations by highly sensitive individuals. Animal toxicological studies have shown that 0.16% methanethiol, 3.3% ethanethiol or 9.6% dimethyl-sulfide induce coma in 50% of rats exposed during a 15 minute period. However, the effects wear off after 30 minutes away from the gas. Human toxicity is proven through the case of a man found comatose within an hour after respiratory exposure to an unknown concentration of methane-thiol. The man experienced severe transient haemolytic anemia, and died 28 days after exposure, never recovering from the coma. It is suggested that methanethiol toxicity is similar to that of hydrogen sulfide.

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1.Improperly compacted backfill and fill present around the foundation. All backfill and fill should be placed in 6" to 8" layers and tampered for proper compaction. This could allow items like the driveway, sidewalk and front porch steps to settle. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 406.3.4)

 2.Grading does not slope away from the foundation. Lots should be graded to drain surface water away from the foundation walls. The grade away from the foundation walls should fall a minimum of 6" within the first 10 feet. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 401.3 &406.3.5)

 3.Grading might hold ground water. The code requires all drainage to be diverted away from the yard. Surface drainage shall be diverted to a storm sewer conveyance or other point of collection. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 401.3) 

 4.Foundations with improperly compacted fill. Could probe under the footings. Fills which support footings and foundations shall be designed, installed and tested in accordance with accepted engineering practices. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 401.2) 

 5. No vapor barrier present for a concrete slab. This could allow water or moisture problems in the basement. A vapor barrier is required under all interior slabs except garages. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 505.2.3)

 6.Improper wall bracing for a 1 or 2 story structure. The corner exterior walls are missing proper bracing. Exterior walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 feet with approved structural sheathing or 1x4 let-in braces or approved metal straps diagonally tied from the bottom plate to the
top plate. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.9)

 7.Improper wall bracing for a 3 story structure. The corner exterior walls are missing proper bracing. All exterior corner walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 feet with a minimum of 48" of approved structural sheathing. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.9)

 8.Exterior windows and doors do not have properly installed flashing and weep holes at the brick. Flashing is required above all doors and windows installed in brick and prevents water from soaking behind the brick running into the structure. Without weep holes to drain the water to the outside, flashing serves no purpose. Flashing and weepholes are required at all brick shelf angles over all doors and windows. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 703.7.4 & 703.8) 

 9.Exterior wood not properly protected. Some of the exterior wood has open joints which will allow moisture to enter and will cause deterioration. Some of the paint is peeling off the wood trim. The trim may not be properly primed to bond the paint to the wood. Proper caulking and painting are needed. All exterior walls shall be covered with approved materials designed and installed to provide a barrier against the weather. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 703.1) 

10. Exterior wood siding trim not properly caulked or sealed at the brick or concrete foundation walls to prevent water and moisture from damaging the wood. Water will run behind the wood and cause deterioration.  (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 703.1)

11. Some of the exterior cement siding has recessed nails. Recessed nails lose their holding strength in fiber cement siding. All manufacturers require the nails to be flush and not recessed. The recessed nails should be caulked and another flush nail installed next to it.   (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 108.1) 

12. Exterior openings in the structure are not sealed. This will allow air leaks into the structure. All exterior joints in the building envelope, that are sources of air leaks, shall be caulked, gasketed, weather-stripped or otherwise sealed in an approved manner. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1004.1)

13.Chimney height is not tall enough. This could be a potential fire hazard. All chimneys shall extend 2' higher than any portion of roof within 10' and at least 3' higher than the roof penetration. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1004.1)

14.Roof shingles have toe board nail holes present. Toe boards are walk boards the roofers use. Any holes in the shingles could turn into a roof leak. All shingles with holes should be replaced or sealed with a sealant that will last as long as the shingles. Roof shingles shall provide a barrier against
the weather to protect its supporting elements and structure beneath. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 901.2)

15.Roof shingles are missing roofing felt at the sheathing along the eaves. This protects the roof sheathing. Slopes of 4 in 12 or greater, one layer of felt is required over all of the roof decking. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 902.2)

16.Step flashing is missing at sloped vertical walls. Some of the roof flashing at the vertical walls is continuous flashing. Flashing prevents water from entering at the intersection of the wall and the roof. Continuous flashing was used successfully for many years. However, step flashing is a far superior method of flashing and is required for all roofing. Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be the step-flashing method. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 903.6)

17 Deck footings are smaller than the minimum allowable size of 12" x 12". See Figure 403.1a, note #5 and Table 502.3.3b. Footings shall comply with Section 403. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 325.5)

18. Deck footings do not extend 12" below grade. All footings must be below the frost line. In no case shall exterior footings be less than 12 inches below grade. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Figure 403.1a, note #1)

19.Deck stair handrail is not the correct size. Handrails that are 2x4 or larger are too large to be used for handrails since they cannot be gripped. Handrails shall have either a circular cross section with a diameter of 1 1/4" to 2", or a noncircular crosssection with a perimeter dimension of at least 4" but not more than 6 1/4" and a largest cross section dimension not exceeding 2 3/4". Edges shall have a minimum radius of 1/8". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 315.2)

20.   Exterior deck is missing properly installed flashing. Flashing prevents water from entering behind the deck and into the structure. Flashing is required where decks attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood frame construction. Exterior balconies, decks and porches shall be flashed in accordance
with section 703.8. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 325.2.1)

21.Some of the roof framing has ridge beams that are too small and do not extend to the bottom of the rafters. The ridge must extend down to the bottom of the rafters to properly support the rafters. The ridge shall not be less in depth than the cut end of the rafters. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code,
Section 802.3)

22.Roof purlin supports, supporting the rafters, are double 2x4's which are not the proper size. The purlins should be single 2x6's turned perpendicular to the rafters which are stronger and less expensive than flat 2x4's. Purlins shall be sized no less than the size of the rafters they support. 
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 802.4.1)

23.Some of the rafter purlins support post exceed 48 inches apart. Additional support post are required to properly support the purlins. All rafter purlins must be braced every 48 inches to a load bearing wall or support. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 802.4.1)

24.Some of the rafter purlins are spliced between the support posts. Support members are not allowed to be spliced without additional support installed. All purlins should be spliced directly above a support post. Purlins must be continuous between braces. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 802.4.1)

25.Roof framing support members have "V" joint or bird mouth splices that are not properly reinforced or supported by a support post to a load bearing wall below. All load bearing beams must be supported at any splice. Roof framing shall be capable of supporting all loads imposed and shall transmit the
resulting loads to its supporting structural elements.  (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 801.2)

26.Attic is missing floor from the end of the attic stairs to the furnace. This makes it dangerous to climb over the stairs to access the flooring at the furnace. All attics must have an unobstructed, floored passageway 22" wide x 30" high to the furnace. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section
1401.5) (2000 Standard Mechanical Code 306.3)

27.Attic insulation certification card is missing. This is required to verify the attic has the proper amount of insulation. The insulation installer shall provide a signed and dated certification for the insulation installed, listing the type of insulation, the manufacturer and the R-value. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code Sect. 102.1.2)

28.Attic insulation thickness markers are missing. One thickness marker is required every 300 s.f. of floor area. The thickness of roof/ceiling blown insulation shall be identified by the thickness markers. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code Sect. 102.1.3)

29.Attic insulation is not deep enough. Sometimes the insulation settles and is not deep enough. The insulation installer certifies the minimum thickness of the insulation. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code Sect. 102.1.2)

30.Attic is missing firestopping at an open chase. A chase is an opening in the attic floor that could allow a fire, from the story below, to enter the attic. All openings in the attic floor need sealing with drywall. Firestopping is required at each floor, at the attic floor and at all roof penetrations.  (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.7)

31.Basement ceiling needs firestopping around all pipe penetrations. Firestopping prevents a fire from spreading to different parts of the structure. Firestopping is required at all openings around vents, pipes, ducts, chimneys and fireplaces at ceiling and floor levels, with noncombustible materials.
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.7)

32.Doors and windows are missing shims and anchors along the jambs. All doors and windows need shimming along the jambs (sides) and proper anchorage for a proper installation. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 108.1)

33.Bedroom windows not large enough to be used for an emergency exit. Each bedroom shall have an operable window with sill height no more than 44" above the floor. Minimum clear height of 22" or minimum width of 20". The net clear opening shall be 4 square feet. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling
Code, Section 310.2)

34.Fireplace has wood trim within too close to the opening. Wood to close to the opening is a fire hazard and could catch fire. Woodwork or other combustible materials shall not be placed within 6 inches of a fireplace opening. Combustible material within 12 inches of the fireplace opening shall no project more than 1/8 inch for each 1 inch distance from such opening. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1003.10)

35.Fireplace gas starter valve is not accessible while lighting the starter. This allows a dangerous build-up of gas before being able to light the burner. Fireplace gas starters must be within 4' of the valve. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 2606.4)

36.Step heights or tread depths are not the proper size. These are potential trip hazards. The maximum allowable step height is 7 3/4". The minimum allowed depth of the tread is 9". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2)

37.Step heights or tread widths vary in a flight of stairs. The different step heights or widths could be a trip hazard. Risers (heights) and treads (widths) may not vary more than 3/8". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2)

38.Stair tread nosing or overhang extends too far over the step below. The edge of the steps could break with the grain of the wood allowing someone to fall down the stairs. The maximum allowable overhang is 1 1/4". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2.1)

39.Top basement step is not deep enough. Sometimes the oak flooring overhangs the top tread too far. This is a potential trip hazard. The minimum allowed depth of the tread is 9". (314.2) The maximum allowable projection or nosing is 1 1/4". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2.1)

40.Stairs are missing a 36" deep landing at the bottom of the stairs between the bottom step and the door. Any flight of stairs that are used for an emergency exit must have a landing at the bottom before opening a door. A minimum of 3 foot landing shall be required on each side of an egress door.
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 312.1)

41.Door to the basement is missing a door sweep and weather-stripping. Unconditioned air can enter the conditioned space. Any opening from a conditioned space to a non-conditioned space must be weather-stripped or sealed. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code 502.3 & 602.3)

42.Basement ceiling height is too low.  Basement ceiling ducts are too low and will prevent installing a ceiling at the proper height. Habitable shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet 6 inches. Furred areas shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet.   (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 305.1)

43.Garage floor does not slope enough to prevent liquids from running under the walls. Flammable liquids could run under the walls into the structure and be ignited by the basement furnace or water heater. That area of floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 309.3)

44.Garage furnace and water heater gas piping is not protected from possible impact. An automobile could hit the piping and cause a gas leak. The pipe must be protected from possible impact. (2000 Standard Gas Code 305.4)

45.Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlet is missing at a wet location. Any electrical outlet located in the bathrooms, kitchen counter area, unfinished basement, garage or on the exterior of the structure that can be reached from the ground, must be GFCI protected. (1999 NEC 210-8(6))  

46. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlet is missing at a sink.  Any electrical outlet located within 6 feet of a sink or basin must be GFCI protected. (1999 NEC 210-8(b)

47. No heating and air conditioning damper system present to balance the heating and air conditioning. A two story structure  with a single heat and air conditioning system, will find it difficult to balance the heating and cooling. A readily accessible manual or automatic damper system shall be provided to partially restrict or shut off the heating and/or cooling input to each zone or floor.  (1995 CABO Model Energy Code 503.6.3 & 603.3.2.1)

48.Furnace ductwork not properly sealed to prevent air leakage in nonconditioned areas.  Sometimes the duct insulation is sealed, but the actual ducts are not sealed. All ducts must be sealed at the furnace and at the register boots. All joints shall be securely fastened and sealed with welds, gaskets,
mastic adhesives, mastic-plus-embedded-fabric systems or tapes. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1401.5)(1994 Standard Mechanical
Code 304.4)(2000 Standard Mechanical Code 306.3)

49.Attic furnace does not have the required working platform in front of the furnace for servicing. This makes it difficult to service the unit or change the filter. A working platform, 30" deep with a clear headroom of 30" high, is required along the control side of the furnace.  
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1401.5)(1994 Standard Mechanical Code 304.4)(2000 Standard Mechanical Code 306.3)

50.Range is missing anti-tip brackets on the rear feet to prevent tipping over. All manufacturer's supply anti-tip brackets with all free standing ranges to prevent tipping. A heavy object such as a turkey can be placed on the open door causing the range to tip spilling hot liquids from the burners.  (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 108.1)

51.Improper Venting of Water Heater:
All gas appliances create carbon monoxide that must be vented outside the home using properly secured metal vent pipe. Loose, corroded or improperly pitched vent pipe can result in carbon monoxide entering household air. Screws should be used to secure all joints. Minor amounts of carbon monoxide can cause headaches and dizziness while higher levels of carbon monoxide can be fatal. Consider installing a carbon monoxide detector in or near sleeping areas.

52. Ungrounded Electric Service Panel:
All main service panels must have at least one permanent and uninterrupted connection to the earth. Newer panels require two connections. Some panels may have a ground rod driven 8' or more into the ground while others are connected to underground water pipes. If a home is connected to a city water supply, a jumper wire from one side of the water meter to the other is required. This wire is frequently missing. A qualified electrician should repair this defect.

53. Building Violations Where Additions and Alterations Were Constructed without Permits:
Homeowners will often tell a home inspector, "We added the garage without a permit, but it was all done to code." This statement is a red flag to most home inspectors, because no one could possibly know the entire building code, and the average person without professional involvement with the code is likely to know very little of it. Whenever an owner offers code assurance, I know that problems are likely to be found.

54.Faulty Installation of Water Heaters:
In most localities, less than 5% of all water heaters are installed in full compliance with plumbing code requirements. Violations can include inadequate strapping, improperly installed overflow piping, unsafe flue conditions, or faulty gas piping. It should also be remembered that today's water heaters are designed to have shorter longevity than in times of yore. In fact, leaks can develop in units that are only five years old.

55.Firewall Violations In Garages:
Special fire-resistive construction is required for walls and doors that separate a garage from a dwelling.
Violations are common, either due to faulty construction, damage or alterations to the garage interior, or
changes in code requirements since the home was built. In older homes, where firewalls are not installed,
sellers and agents will often say that the building predates the code. However, the fire separation requirement for residential garages dates back to 1927.

56.The ICC model energy code 2000 code number 602.1.5 deals with Basement walls as follows: Where the basement is considered a conditioned space, the basement walls shall be insulated in accordance with
Table 602.1. Where the basement is not considered a conditioned space, either the basement wall or the
ceiling(s) separating the basement from conditioned space shall be insulated in accordance with Table
602.1. Where basement walls are required to be insulated, the required R-value shall be applied from the
top of the basement wall to a depth of 10 feet below grade or to the top of the basement floor, whichever is less.

 

 

We Test your home for lead! Reasonable rates.

 Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

*Childhood lead poisoning remains a major environmental health problem in the U.S..Let us provide a inexpensive testing in your home if it is 1977 or older.If you use these homes as rental properties,section 8,investments this could save you from exposer to liability. 

*Even children who appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their bodies.

• People can get lead in their body if they:
  • Put their hands or other objects covered with lead dust in their mouths.
  • Eat paint chips or soil that contains lead.
  • Breathe in lead dust (especially during renovations that disturb painted surfaces).
• Lead is even more dangerous to children than adults because:
  • Babies and young children often put their hands and other objects in their mouths. These objects can have lead dust on them.
  • Children's growing bodies absorb more lead.
  • Children's brains and nervous systems are more sensitive to the damaging effects of lead.
• If not detected early, children with high levels of lead in their bodies can suffer from:
  • Damage to the brain and nervous system
  • Behavior and learning problems (such as hyperactivity)
  • Slowed growth
  • Hearing problems
  • Headaches
• Lead is also harmful to adults. Adults can suffer from:
  • Difficulties during pregnancy
  • Other reproductive problems (in both men and women)
  • High blood pressure
  • Digestive problems
  • Nerve disorders
  • Memory and concentration problems
  • Muscle and joint pain

Where Lead is Found

*In general, the older your home, the more likely it has lead-based paint.Accurate home inspection have affordable, accredited lab with microbioloigist for testing mold,asbestos,and lead*

• Paint. Many atlanta homes built before 1978 have lead-based paint. The federal government banned lead-based paint from housing in 1978. Some states stopped its use even earlier. Lead can be found:
  • In homes in the city, country, or suburbs.
  • In apartments, single-family homes, and both private and public housing.
  • Inside and outside of the house.
• In soil around a home. (Soil can pick up lead from exterior paint, or other sources such as past use of leaded gas in cars.)
• Household dust. (Dust can pick up lead from deteriorating lead-based paint or from soil tracked into a home.)
• Drinking water. Your home might have plumbing with lead or lead solder. Call your local health department or water supplier to find out about testing your water. You cannot see, smell, or taste lead, and boiling your water will not get rid of lead. If you think your plumbing might have lead in it:
  • Use only cold water for drinking and cooking.
  • Run water for 15 to 30 seconds before drinking it, especially if you have not used your water for a few hours.
• The job. If you work with lead, you could bring it home on your hands or clothes. Shower and change clothes before coming home. Launder your work clothes separately from the rest of your family's clothes.
• Old painted toys and furniture.
• Food and liquids stored in lead crystal or lead-glazed pottery or porcelain.
• Lead smelters or other industries that release lead into the air.
• Hobbies that use lead, such as making pottery or stained glass, or refinishing furniture.
• Folk remedies that contain lead, such as "greta" and "azarcon" used to treat an upset stomach.

Where Lead is Likely to be a Hazard

*Lead from paint chips, which you can see, and lead dust, which you can't always see, can be serious hazards.*

• Peeling, chipping, chalking, or cracking lead-based paint is a hazard and needs immediate attention.
• Lead-based paint may also be a hazard when found on surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear-and-tear. These areas include:
  • Windows and window sills.
  • Doors and door frames.
  • Stairs, railings, and banisters.
  • Porches and fences.

Note: Lead-based paint that is in good condition is usually not a hazard.

• Lead dust can form when lead-based paint is dry scraped, dry sanded, or heated. Dust also forms when painted surfaces bump or rub together. Lead chips and dust can get on surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air when people vacuum, sweep, or walk through it.
• Lead in soil can be a hazard when children play in bare soil or when people bring soil into the house on their shoes.

Checking Your Family and Home for Lead

*Get your children and home tested if you think your home has high levels of lead.*

*Just knowing that a home has lead-based paint may not tell you if there is a hazard.*

To reduce your childs exposure to lead, get your child checked, have your home tested (especially if your home has paint in poor condition and was built before 1978), and fix any hazards you may have.

• Your Family
  • Childrens blood lead levels tend to increase rapidly from 6 to 12 months of age, and tend to peak at 18 to 24 months of age.
  • Consult your doctor for advice on testing your children. A simple blood test can detect high levels of lead. Blood tests are important for:
    • Children at ages 1 and 2.
    • Children and other family members who have been exposed to high levels of lead.
    • Children who should be tested under your state or local health screening plan.
  • Your doctor can explain what the test results mean and if more testing will be needed.
• Your Home
  • You can get your home checked in one of two ways, or both:
    • A paint inspection tells you the lead content of every different type of painted surface in your home. It won't tell you whether the paint is a hazard or how you should deal with it.
    • A risk assessment tells you if there are any sources of serious lead exposure (such as peeling paint and lead dust). It also tells you what actions to take to address these hazards.
  • Have qualified professionals do the work. There are standards in place for certifying lead-based paint professionals to ensure the work is done safely, reliably, and effectively. Get a list of contacts in your area.
  • Trained professionals use a range of methods when checking your home, including:
    • Visual inspection of paint condition and location.
    • A portable x-ray fluorescence (XRF) machine.
    • Lab tests of paint samples.
    • Surface dust tests.

Note: Home test kits for lead are available, but studies suggest that they are not always accurate. Consumers should not rely on these tests before doing renovations or to assure safety. We provide affordable pricing at our atlanta inspection office.You can rely on us to provide you with first class service.

Are You Planning to Buy or Rent a Home Built Before 1978?

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 in atlanta have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying a pre-1978 housing:

• Residential Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Program
  • LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
  • SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to 10 days to check for lead hazards.
  • More information on the disclosure program.

Remodeling or Renovating a Home with Lead-Based Paint

*If not conducted properly, certain types of renovations can release lead from paint and dust into the air.*

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 in atlanta have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

• Federal law requires that contractors provide lead information to residents before renovating a pre-1978 housing:
  • Pre-Renovation Education Program (PRE)
    • RENOVATORS have to give you a pamphlet titled Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home, before starting work.
    • More information on the Pre-Renovation Education Program.
• Take precautions before your contractor or you begin remodeling or renovations that disturb painted surfaces (such as scraping off paint or tearing out walls):
  • Have the area tested for lead-based paint.
  • Do not use a belt-sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry scraper, or dry sandpaper to remove lead-based paint. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and fumes.
  • Lead dust can remain in your home long after the work is done.
  • Temporarily move your family (especially children and pregnant women) out of the apartment or house until the work is done and the area is properly cleaned. If you can't move your family, at least completely seal off the work area.
  • If you have already completed renovations or remodeling that could have released lead-based paint or dust, get your young children tested and follow the steps outlined to protect your family.

  • Did you know that a lot of homes built prior to 1978 had lead paint? Here is a quick review, FYI. All sellers with homes built prior to 1978 are required to fill out a lead-based paint disclosure form and provide you, the buyer, with a lead-based paint educational booklet in any sale. Lead is a highly toxic metal that was used for many years in products found in and around our homes. Lead may cause a range of health effects, from behavioral problems and learning disabilities, to seizures and death. Children 6 years old and under are most at risk, because their bodies are growing quickly. On the other hand, there are millions of homes with lead paint out there, and many have been painted and repainted several times so the lead paint is well covered up. If in doubt, have the paint tested and evaluated by a professional inspector who will send results that measure to the standards of the EPA.

    If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact us. Thank You! Sincerely, Accurate Home inspection of Atlanta 404 680-4578. Disclosure of Information Concerning Lead-Based Paint in Housing (November 2, 1994) http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/paint.htm

                 WWW.Findmeaninspector.com

 

PEX piping offers reduced heat loss and improved thermal characteristics when compared to metallic pipe. In addition, less energy is used by the water heater because of shorter delivery time for hot water with PEX parallel plumbing systems.

Cost Effectiveness-PEX plumbing systems have lower installation costs than rigid metallic plumbing systems.Installation time and labor required is greatly reduced. In service, the use of PEX systems can reduce energy and water use by delivering water to the fixtures faster and by reducing losses in the piping.

 Noise Reduction-When properly secured, PEX piping can be significantly quieter than rigid systems. It is inherently less noisy due to its flexibility and ability to absorb pressure surges.

Water Conservation

 

Properly designed PEX plumbing systems have the potential to conserve water. The flexibility of PEX allows it to bend around corners and run continuously, reducing the need for fittings; this allows downsizing the pipe diameter to 3/8-inch for certain fixtures.Home-run systems and 3/8-inch pipes minimize the time it takes hot water to reach the fixture. Lengthy delivery time for hot water represents a significant waste of water as well as energy; a problem exacerbated in larger homes.

In 2002, the NAHB Research Center conducted software simulations and laboratory tests on a "typical" hot water system using a trunk and branch rigid pipe design and one that included a 3/8-inch diameter PEX home-run system. Results indicated that systems using shorter 3/8-inch runs with a home-run manifold reduced the wait time for hot water and wasted less water than longer runs of rigid pipe with many elbows and connections.

Environmentally Sound

 

PEX is a modification or enhancement of high-density polyethylene, an economical and highly cost-effective construction piping material. Generally, manufacturing equivalent lengths of plastic pipe consumes far less energy than manufacturing metallic pipe. The lighter weight of PEX compared to metallic piping helps to lower transportation costs and energy consumption,offering even greater benefit.PEX pipes can be recycled as an inert filler material that can be incorporated into other polymers for specific applications. There is also reduced water use through faster delivery time.

In addition, PEX pipe does not contain harmful VOCs.PEX is a material made up of molecules of high-density polyethylene (HDPE) that are permanently linked to each other by a process called crosslinking. Crosslinking makes PEX a"thermoset" polymer, which gives it long-term stability.Polyethylene can be crosslinked using several technologies. All methods induce links between the single strands of PE to form a dense network through radical reactions. The number of links between the strands determines the crosslink density and is an important factor in determining the physical properties of the material. The minimum percent crosslinking for each method is specified in the ASTM F 876 standard.

Ease of Installation

 The installation of PEX pipe is generally easier than rigid pipe. It is available in long coils which eliminates the need for coupling joints. Its flexible nature allows it to be bent gently around obstructions, minimizing the use of fittings. No solvent, chemical, or solder joining is required.The mechanical fittings are secure and reliable when installed properly. The pipe is lightweight,making it safe to transport and easy to handle. For a comparison of the installation of rigid metal pipe to PEX pipe.

The PEX piping industry is highly regulated. Standards, specifications, and code requirements define tight material and production quality controls. Continuous-use temperature ratings as high as 200ºF (93ºC) are required as well as standardized chlorine resistance testing to ensure that the piping will withstand the most aggressive drinking water conditions. Nationally accredited, third-party certification agencies require strenuous quality control testing, including random plant inspections and annual monitoring testing.There are numerous opportunities for more widespread use of PEX pipe in the U.S. residential market.

• Some plumbers are reluctant to use PEX piping due to a lack of experience with installation methods and design requirements

• Some jurisdictions prohibit the use of PEX piping for water supply plumbing even though PEX pipe is approved for use in all model codes

• Codes were originally written for rigid trunk and branch systems; while they have now been amended to include PEX piping systems, they do not provide many system design details

• There is a perception among some that PEX piping systems are inferior as a building product, generally based on knowledge of past failures of PB piping systems.Although these hurdles exist, the following are among the many benefits of PEX piping systems.

• Ease of Installation - PEX pipe uses mechanical connections eliminating the need for solders, flames, and chemicals. Its flexible nature allows it to bend around obstructions. Use of manifolds can speed installation and improve performance.

• Corrosion Resistance - PEX piping will not pit or stress corrode.

• Scaling Resistance - PEX pipe's smooth interior walls and chemical properties make it resistant to mineral build-up.

• Cost Effectiveness - PEX plumbing systems are less labor intensive and can optimize system performance.

• Availability of Pipe Sizes - PEX piping is available in a wide range of diameters.

                            Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

                                                            WWW.FINDMEANINSPECTOR.COM

Are your energy bills too high? Is your home not as comfortable as you want it to be? Do you want to do more to protect the environment? Do you have teenagers at home giving your hot water bill a beating? Whatever your situation, this will help you to find a solution that's right for you. This guide is primarily aimed at homeowners who are thinking of upgrading or replacing their home's existing heating or cooling systems. It also contains useful information for people who are having a home built for them, and for those who want to reduce their energy consumption in general.   While builders generally offer a standard heating or heating/cooling package, upgrades to more efficient equipment might be available.Always have them system inspected after installation so proper codes with the different systems, fuel options. Remember to also ask your builder about other energy efficiency upgrades, which can range from extra insulation to a complete R-2000-certified home. Before being R-2000-certified, each home is evaluated and tested to ensure a high level of energy efficiency has been designed and built into it. There are both financial and environmental benefits to conserving energy and using it wisely. To help you conserve even more, this will also direct you to resources that can help you reduce energy consumed for purposes beyond heating and cooling your home.   A Wise Choice   The options presented will help you to select heating and cooling systems that meet the needs of both your lifestyle and your check book. Besides the obvious savings for you that occur by lowering your consumption, by reducing demand for energy through conservation or, in the case of electricity, even from shifting consumption to times of lower demand, together we can lower the market price for the energy that is consumed. The advantages of investing in energy efficiency aren't only felt within your family budget- they are realized in the cleaner environment that goes hand in hand with more efficient systems and the wise use of energy.
Before You Start   Putting an energy-efficient heating system into a drafty, poorly insulated house will not lower your energy bills. But you'll notice a more dramatic increase, and even create even geater problems.If you want to make your entire house more energy efficient. How? Let a atlanta home inspector do a affordable energy efficient inspection.

• Weatherstrip and caulk to seal air leaks. You may have to replace uncontrolled sources of air with designed sources to ensure proper ventilation.
• Increase insulation levels where appropriate (such as in the attic or walls) to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
• Open drapes on south-facing windows on sunny winter days so that the sun's energy can help heat your home, and close them in summer to help keep your home cool.
• Choose energy-efficient products when replacing windows and doors.

By making your house more energy-efficient, your heating and cooling systems will work less, and you may reduce the capacity needed when you replace your systems, which means more savings for you.   Why Energy Efficiency Matters   It's good for your budget, your comfort and our environment. Each year you spend hundreds of dollars to heat and cool your home and to heat your hot water. By installing energy-efficient equipment, which gives you the same comfort for less energy, you can lower these costs. Furthermore, the lower you can make your energy costs now, the better off you will be should energy prices go up - and conservation reduces upward pressure on energy prices.   Whenever fuels are burned - in your home, in a generating station to produce electricity, in vehicles or elsewhere - carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxide and sulphur dioxide are released. These emissions contribute to environmental concerns including smog, acid rain and climate change. Reducing energy use lowers the amounts of these emissions and their impact on the environment. You can help by practicing energy efficiency and conservation not only in heating and cooling your home, but everywhere at home, in the workplace and in your transportation choices. Many factors can affect your annual energy bill such as size and location of your home, yearly variations in weather, efficiency of your furnace and other appliances, thermostat settings, number of occupants, and the local cost of energy.   Are you serious about how to go about cutting your heating and cooling costs?   Follow these steps:

• Where appropriate, improve the insulation and air sealing in your home.
• Use this guide to help you decide what kinds of changes to your heating and cooling systems will be right for you.
• Consult with a registered heating/cooling contractor and your fuel supplier before making a final decision.
  

Heating Units and Controls
There are four common types of heating units:

• A furnace provides heat through a forced air distribution system.
• A boiler provides heat through a hydronic distribution system. (Hydronic systems are also referred to as hot water systems.)
• A space heater supplies heat directly to the room where it is located.
• A heat pump extracts heat from the air, ground or water outside the house and usually delivers it through a forced air distribution system.

Most heating systems need air for combustion. Furnaces, boilers and space heaters that burn fuels need a supply of air to be able to burn properly, and a vent to the outdoors so that combustion gases can escape from the house. Electric heaters do not need to be vented. Combustion is a two-step process: air in, and gases out.   Air in In the past, there was usually plenty of air leaking into a house to keep the furnace, boiler or stove burning well. Modern homes, however, are better sealed and use controlled ventilation, rather than uncontrolled leakage, to provide greater comfort and energy efficiency. Vents that supply air for heating units should never be blocked. It is important to ensure that there is an adequate supply of combustion air available, even when other air exhausting equipment is in use.   Gases out Venting used to be done through a chimney. Today, however, many models of natural gas, oil and propane equipment can be vented by pipe directly through the wall, which greatly simplifies installation. Remember that combustion gases cannot escape from your home unless you provide air to replace them. That's why venting problems can often be traced to air supply problems.   Controls The indoor temperature is automatically controlled by a thermostat. Two important considerations are location and type. Central systems are normally controlled by a single thermostat. To achieve proper temperature control, the thermostat must be located in an area where it will sense the "average" indoor temperature. Locations exposed to localized temperature extremes (outside walls, drafts, sunlight, hot ducts or pipes, etc.) should be avoided.   Different types of thermostats are available. Basic types maintain a fixed indoor temperature. However, you can reduce your heating costs by installing a set-back thermostat which can be programmed to automatically lower the temperature when no one is home or everyone is in bed, and then warm up the house before you get home or wake up. Savings will vary, but a set-back of 3ºC for eight hours daily could reduce your heating costs by about 5%.   Where space heaters are used, each unit will likely be individually controlled by its own thermostat - which is usually the basic type. This allows you to keep unused areas at a lower temperature than those areas you do use.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta  www.findmeaninspector.com

Controlling the surface water around a home is an important in maintaining a home.  Surface water in refers to water introduced to the soil when it rains.  The water, if not properly controlled, could lead to water penetration and result in damage to the structure, interior surfaces, and homeowners' belongings.  In addition, hydrostatic pressure that is created when water accumulates next to or below a foundation may cause structural damage to the foundation.  The best methods for controlling the surface water are contingent upon local weather patterns, the type of soil and the type of foundation the home has.  However, the simplest method to properly divert water away from the property is to use gutters systems, combined with proper surface grading around the home.

Exterior Surface Grading
The grade or slope of the soil should be designed to direct  water away from the home.  Water accumulation next to the home can lead to water  problems such as structural damage to wood framing, interior damage to finished surfaces and damage to the homeowners' belongings.  Additional problems such as hydrostatic pressure against foundation walls or surface water mixing with expansive soils next to or under a foundation can lead to cracking of the slab and foundation walls.  Proper grading is one of the easiest ways to manage surface water, reduce the possibility of water  hydrostatic pressure, and control the water content in expansive soils. 

Grading of the Soil Around the Perimeter of the Home
The soil around the perimeter of the home should slope away (at a minimum of six inches for the first 10 feet) from the house to prevent rain water from accumulating next to the foundation.  Soil in this case does not refer to the topsoil but the layer of soil  which directs the water away from the house.  Many times the topsoil is porous (as would be used for planting) and absorbs the surface water.The overall lot grading is also an important concern since surface water may enter from adjacent properties.  Generally, if the house is located on a slope or on a lot that receives water run-off, swales are often used to direct the water around the house.  Swales are shallow ditches or depressions in the landscape that capture the water run-off.  Then, like a small creek, the water is directed around and away from the house.

 

WET BASEMENT

A wet basement can be a nuisance or a real nightmare. Each year, thousands of homeowners are faced with the unpleasant side effects of seasonal rainfall. Problems they can face range from mere dampness to flooding. Chronic basement leakage is a serious problem that can destroy personal property, furnishings, appliances, and can sometimes cause permanent structural damage to a home's foundation. Excessive moisture is a huge attraction to wood-eating insects, wood rot and decay.  Despite the pervasiveness of the problem, few homeowners are aware of the causes of wet basements. 

 

Common Causes

A common cause of wet basements is improper surface drainage, such as a yard sloped toward the home. In many cases, the problem can be greatly alleviated by re-grading the yard to slope away from the homes foundation or diverting surface water around the house.  Other common culprits include poorly positioned rain gutter downspouts, missing, leaking or clogged rain gutters. A downspout that is improperly positioned to drain against the side of the house, allows water to build up along the foundation wall, until the backed-up "reservoir" finds a weak spot in the foundation wall.

The most serious cause of basement leakage is a high water table. A high water table problem occurs when the home is built too deeply in the ground, into the level where water remains constant throughout the year. A high water table problem can also be caused by under ground springs or sustained periods of rainfall that cause the water table to rise during the wet seasons.

Is it Leakage or Condensation?

You should try to determine if your wet basement is the result of water "leaking" in or condensation forming on the cool surfaces. Condensation occurs when warm, humid air comes into contact with cooler basement walls, floors, water pipes etc.  To illustrate, take a cold bottle of soda out of your refrigerator and sit it on the counter. After several minutes, you'll notice steam forming on the outside of the bottle. After many minutes pass, you will see a small puddle of water forming at the base of the bottle, from the beads of moisture running down the bottle. The result is classic condensation, not "leakage". If your basement is actually leaking, you should be able to locate the source of the leak in the form of a puddle or stream or water.

Helpful Tips

Your rain gutters should be cleaned of leaves and debris at least once per year.  Downspouts should direct water runoff from the roof to a discharge point at least several feet away from the homes foundation. Use a splash block at the end of your downspout to avoid soil erosion. Never bury your downspout lines unless you can empty them out to daylight.

Consider buying a good dehumidifier to lower the natural humidity level in your basement. Make sure your dehumidifier is the proper size for your basement. Ask for a drain hose attachment so you don't have to empty the water collected every day and get a unit with a built-in de-icer. Dehumidifiers are actually refrigeration coils and can freeze up and stop working.  Keep the doors and windows to your basement closed, year round. Opened doors and windows allow extra humidity to enter your basement, causing condensation. Your dehumidifier will also run less.

 

Home settle caused be poor lot drainage.Water is the worst enemy to a foundation to a home.Settlement often happens when parts of a house drop below the elevation or height where they were placed during the original construction. There are numerous reasons why this may happen. The soil beneath the foundation or beneath column supports may shrink due to moisture loss. The soil may not have been compacted properly before the foundation was installed. Large pieces of organic material may have been included in the soil under the house. When it decays, the soil above it collapses to fill the void. The list of possibilities is nearly endless. Not all houses settle, but many suffer cracking of one type or another.

 

Cracks happen for all sorts of reasons. Different construction materials have different expansion and contraction coefficients, some materials change shape and size as they absorb water and water vapor while materials immediately adjacent to them do not budge.Understanding House Settling Cracks.If you have an understanding as to why cracks happen, then you can often work to make permanent repairs. There are some cracks that can't be easily repaired. What's more, it is hard to totally disguise some cracks. Large houses have joints within them. These are places where the house relieves movement, just like the joints in our fingers, arms and legs. I often see cracks in modern homes where columns support beams. You can see cracks right where the contact point between these two structural members meet.

 

 Hardwood floor often develop cracks. There are all sorts of reasons for that to happen, and almost always they can be traced to a humidity or moisture problem.If you are getting ready to build a home, you need to realize that certain subdivisions are cut and fill operations. In other words, the developer takes dirt from one place and uses it for fill in other parts of the subdivision. If this soil is not placed with great care, it can settle! If you think that you are building on fill dirt, by all means spend the extra money to get it tested by a soil engineering firm. If you don't and you end up with problems.
Shallow Foundations

 

Many houses are built on slabs or have crawlspaces. The footers for these structures need to be placed just below the frost limit in the local area. The closer the frost line is to the surface (warmer climates) the greater chance you might have for droughts that cause your foundation to move. If you live in an area of clay soils and have seen a dried mud puddle with large cracks in it, then you have expansive clay soils in your area. Not only do these soils shrink sideways as they dry (this creates the cracks you see), but they also shrink down in volume. The shrinkage can be dramatic and can cause all sorts of cracking, door and window fit problems, etc. You can plan ahead and minimize foundation movement if you install water injection pipes next to the footer when you build the structure. I always did this on my jobs and it has given my clients the ability of tricking the soil under their houses and room additions into thinking it is raining up there on the surface!

 

The way you trick the soil is to install a four inch perforated pipe along the side or on top of the footer of the shallow foundation. You install one or two tee fittings in the piping so that you can extend a vertical riser pipe up to the surface. Install a loose fitting cap over this riser. When the drought hits, you simply let a garden hose run very slowly in the riser pipe for 24 hours or so. The pipe will evenly distribute the water around the footer if you have installed the footer fairly level. This system is simple and inexpensive to install and will save you hundreds of dollars in repairs and lots of headaches as well! If you try to fix a house that has cracks, talk with a structural engineer. If you pier one or more corners, you may create new stress points at other places!

Formaldehyde is an important chemical used widely by industry to manufacture building materials and numerous household products. It is also a by-product of combustion and certain other natural processes. Thus, it may be present in substantial concentrations both indoors and outdoors.

Sources of formaldehyde in the home include building materials, smoking, household products, and the use of un-vented, fuel-burning appliances, like gas stoves or kerosene space heaters. Formaldehyde, by itself or in combination with other chemicals, serves a number of purposes in manufactured products. For example, it is used to add permanent-press qualities to clothing and draperies, as a component of glues and adhesives, and as a preservative in some paints and coating products.

In homes, the most significant sources of formaldehyde are likely to be pressed wood products made using adhesives that contain urea-formaldehyde (UF) resins. Pressed wood products made for indoor use include: particleboard (used as sub-flooring and shelving and in cabinetry and furniture); hardwood plywood paneling (used for decorative wall covering and used in cabinets and furniture); and medium density fiberboard (used for drawer fronts, cabinets, and furniture tops). Medium density fiberboard contains a higher resin-to-wood ratio than any other UF pressed wood product and is generally recognized as being the highest formaldehyde-emitting pressed wood product.

Other pressed wood products, such as softwood plywood and flake or oriented strand board, are produced for exterior construction use and contain the dark, or red/black-colored phenol-formaldehyde (PF) resin. Although formaldehyde is present in both types of resins, pressed woods that contain PF resin generally emit formaldehyde at considerably lower rates than those containing UF resin.

Background

Since 1985, the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) has permitted only the use of plywood and particleboard that conform to specified formaldehyde emission limits in the construction of prefabricated and mobile homes. In the past, some of these homes had elevated levels of formaldehyde because of the large amount of high-emitting pressed wood products used in their construction and because of their relatively small interior space.

The rate at which products like pressed wood or textiles release formaldehyde can change. Formaldehyde emissions will generally decrease as products age. When the products are new, high indoor temperatures or humidity can cause increased release of formaldehyde from these products.

During the 1970s, many homeowners had urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) installed in the wall cavities of their homes as an energy conservation measure. However, many of these homes were found to have relatively high indoor concentrations of formaldehyde soon after the UFFI installation. Few homes are now being insulated with this product. Studies show that formaldehyde emissions from UFFI decline with time; therefore, homes in which UFFI was installed many years ago are unlikely to have high levels of formaldehyde now.

Sources of Formaldehyde

Pressed wood products (hardwood plywood wall paneling, particleboard, fiberboard) and furniture made with these pressed wood products. Urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI). Combustion sources and environmental tobacco smoke. Durable press drapes, other textiles, and glues.

Health Effects

Formaldehyde, a colorless, pungent-smelling gas, can cause watery eyes, burning sensations in the eyes and throat, nausea, and difficulty in breathing in some humans exposed at elevated levels (above 0.1 parts per million). High concentrations may trigger attacks in people with asthma. There is evidence that some people can develop a sensitivity to formaldehyde. It has also been shown to cause cancer in animals and may cause cancer in humans.  Health effects include eye, nose, and throat irritation; wheezing and coughing; fatigue; skin rash; severe allergic reactions. May cause cancer. May also cause other effects listed under "organic gases."  EPA's Integrated Risk Information System profile.

Levels in Homes

Average concentrations in older homes without UFFI are generally well below 0.1 (ppm). In homes with significant amounts of new pressed wood products, levels can be greater than 0.3 ppm.

Geothermal heat pumps for homes and other buildings is way up - and likely to go higher
The geothermal heat pump is a green technology which, unlike solar and wind power, doesn't
get a lot of attention. Geothermal heat pumps utilize the Earth's constant temperature to
heat and cool water that is pumped underground through a closed loop pipe that runs up into
a house or other building. Geothermal heat pumps are an environmentally-friendly source of
heating, cooling and hot water.While geothermal heat pumps still account for less than 1% of
the U.S. heating and cooling market.Did you know Google is investing $10 million in companies
developing technologies for exploiting geothermal energy.

Every energy expert says there is no single "silver bullet" for solving the global energy
crisis.Roughly 5% to 10% of all carbon dioxide emissions in the world are generated by the
manufacture and transportation of cement, making the need for a new "green" cement one of
the world's biggest environmental priorities.

It's getting more expensive to build a house.A weak economy and soaring costs for building
materials are affecting the real estate market.Builders say the double digit increases drove
price up an average of 10 percent per square foot. So fewer homes are being built, and
inventory is at its lowest level since 2005.Builders are working to keep prices down by
negotiating with suppliers and eating some of the costs, but they're still passing some of
the cost onto the consumers.

Housing trend experts predict the cost of building a new home will continue to rise and home
s will be more expensive next year.

Awards will be given to builders, remodeling experts, and developers who incorporate features in their projects which enhance energy efficiency, further access to community services such as retail businesses, transportation, medical, and other services and recognize the access needs for persons of all levels of physical ability including the very
young and the elderly.

 

Heating systems and fuel-based appliances

Unvented or poorly maintained fuel-based appliances can be a source of contaminants.Other
pollutants can be distributed by the forced air system. Here are some ways to reduce contaminants.

Accurate Home inspections of Atlanta
can provide you with a level of accountability, professionalism by a qualified  building codes inspector knowledgeable of the home building industry. It simply doesn't make sense to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars for a new or existing home without an PCR evaluation. Few buyers have the expertise to make an objective evaluation.

www.findmeaninspector.com

 

                  WE GO BEYOND THE BASICS! _____________________________

Use an electric stove rather than a gas stove.

Be aware of contaminants from fireplaces and wood stoves.
 
Do not use kerosene or similar, fuel-based unvented heaters.

Maintain your furnace filters regularly. Upgrade to at least pleated paper filters.

If you have an electronic air cleaner and you smell ozone, be aware that ozone is a respiratory irritant.
Try washing the filter more often. If more frequent washing doesn't get rid of the ozone smell, switch
to a pleated paper filter.
 
Have your furnace serviced by a heating contractor.
If you find that the return air ducts are dirty, or if the ducts have not been cleaned since the house was
built or you moved in, have your ducts cleaned. Ensure that the contractor does not spray chemicals, such
as fungicides, disinfectants or essential oils, into the ducts. Note that CMHC research shows that you should
not expect to improve your indoor air quality by having ducts cleaned.
When you replace your heating system, select a high-efficiency furnace.
Have your chimney checked to ensure that it is not blocked.
 
Install smoke alarms.
Install a carbon monoxide (CO) detector. Units that have a continuous readout to low levels and a memory that
displays past levels can tell you the actual CO concentrations in your house. Normal conditions inside and outside
homes are between 0 and 2 parts per million (ppm). Note that CO detectors are usually set to sound an alarm when
the CO level is high - usually 70 ppm.

                                                                    404 680-4578  

                                                 Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

                                                                   404 680-4578

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Walls are the largest exterior surface areas of most homes and are also exposed to wind load and large amounts of air infiltration. Uninsulated or poorly insulated walls are ideal for convection heat transfer because of internal wall cavities. These cavities, which are more prevalent than most people think, are caused by little or no insulation or poorly-installed insulation. Exterior walls with an air cavity between their cold and warm side allow air currents inside the walls to carry warmth from one side of the wall to the other.

At the exterior walls of homes with wall insulation, the interior drywall surface is cooler at the studs because heat is lost through the wood to the exterior faster than through the insulation; heat loss to the exterior is even faster with metal studs because metal conducts heat faster than wood. The outside corners of house rooms are cooler because there is only wood framing at the corners, and no insulation. Similarly, in ceilings, drywall close to the building perimeter may be colder than interior surfaces. Where there are lower wall temperatures, in addition to increased relative humidity, there are also increased amounts of air movements due to convection. Cold air sinks and warm air rises. Where the exterior wall is colder, air is cooled and sinks. Air is full of particles, and in areas where there are increased air flows due to wall convection or heated air flows, there are increased rates of collisions of particles with walls. If you can feel drafts around your socket and switch plates, then there is either no insulation, or your walls are so poorly insulated that the heat and cold air blow right around the insulation.

Poorly insulated walls  the airflow is what freezes pipes and increase your home heating. In the summer Walls exposed to sunlight can get extremely hot. In an uninsulated or poorly insulated wall, heat can easily be transferred from the hot exterior wall to the cooler interior wall by convection, conduction, and radiation. Another form of air circulation consists of interior convective airflow. Because of a temperature difference between the room and the outer portions of the wall, air flow could be initiated if openings are in place, even with a perfect air barrier system located on the outside.It could transport indoor moisture to a location below the dew point, possibly to an external air barrier element. The air pressures in this case are much smaller than what an air barrier system has to sustain, since the force is due to temperature difference alone. An element of low air permeance installed in a continuous manner on the interior side of the wall can minimize this phenomenon; it can be the air barrier system installed on the warm side, or a vapour barrier membrane. Installing the stud cavity insulation without leaving pockets of air is beneficial to minimize this phenomenon." 

 Some sources have suggested ventilating wall cavities to let moisture escape, especially where low permeability sheathing is used. However, studies in instrumented buildings have shown that ventilating actually increases the potential for condensation problems. Vents provided only at the top tend to draw more humid indoor air into the wall cavity, and thus provide more moisture to condense. Vents provided at both top and bottom allow cold air to pass through the wall, which may cool the sheathing surface below dew point temperature. While retrofit vents have sometimes alleviated paint peeling by letting moisture escape when the weather warms up, they also increase condensation potential. Even without vents, moisture is not trapped in the wall since it will eventually escape around and through the top plate.As a result of steadily rising energy costs, construction practice for light-frame wood structures has changed over the past few years. The use of 6-inch-thick walls and application of high-"R"-value, low-permeance sheathings to 4-inch walls has caused concern for the changing moisture patterns that may occur in walls.

The exterior wall system  used on most of todays homes provides many advantages.Exterior wall built in accordance with standard construction practices are vertical framing members arranged in a plane to define a wall. Exterior sheathing material, such as plywood or OSB, is then fastened to the framing members to define and to give stability to an exterior surface of the wall. To prevent air and moisture infiltration into the wall, the wall is then generally covered with a house wrap or vapor barrier. Foam board or generally rigid insulation is then fastened to the wall adjacent the house wrap. Brick veneer walls on holes require weep hole or weep wicks to promote air circulation for wall cavity ventilation.

With the rapidly increasing cost of energy used in home heating and cooling, a multitude of ways of insulating homes have been invented Most common is the batts of fiberglass,rigid polystyrene foam inserted into the wall cavities between the studs,or blowing cellulose, rock wool, or urethane foam into the wall cavities.In order to achieve an R-20 exterior wall insulation value, which is required by HUD Minimum Property Standards in new home construction, builders have increasingly started to use 2×6 construction framing instead of 2×4's in order to stuff another 2 inches of insulation into the wall cavity, which is a waste of good lumber.Builders have started nailing insulating sheathing over the exterior side of the studs. This insulating sheathing varies in thickness from 1/4 inch to 3 inches.Sheathing over the stud creates the problem of trapped water vapor within the wall cavities Any insulating material which absorbs moisture can lose insulating value because water is an excellent conductor of energy. In order to prevent this condensation, especially in colder climates, a polyethlene vapor barrier has to be installed on the warm side of the wall and then the wall cavities must be vented to outside air with vents.