Atlanta Inspection News! Consumer information: August 2008

Frost-Protected Shallow Foundations (FPSF) provides protection against frost damage without the need for excavating below the frost line. An FPSF has insulation placed strategically around the outside walls to direct heat loss from the building toward the foundation, and also to use the earth's natural geothermal energy.
Traditionally, foundations are protected from frost-heaving damage by placing the footing below the frost line.

Because FPSF are protected from freezing by thermal insulation, the bottoms of footings can be just 12 to 16 inches below grade. This reduces excavation costs, making it an economical alternative for protecting foundations against frost damage.

Insulated footings have been used as early as the 1930s by Frank Lloyd Wright in the Chicago area. There are now over one million homes in Norway, Sweden, and Finland with insulated shallow footings, recognized by their building codes as standard practice. It is estimated that there are over 5,000 buildings in the United States that have successfully used frost protected shallow foundations.

FPSFs are similar to conventional foundations except in insulation placement and footing depth. Bottoms of FPSF footings are placed about 12 to 16 inches below grade. FPSF have vertical insulation placed at the outside edge of the foundation extending from above grade to the bottom of the footing.

When required in colder climates, "wing" insulation extends outward horizontally from the footing. The colder the climate, the further the wing insulation is extended. Wing insulation is unnecessary in moderate climates.

The insulation used in FPSF is commonly rigid expanded or extruded polystyrene foam suitable for below grade application, and it must be in compliance with ASTM C 578 Standard. FPSF can be used for both heated and unheated portions of a building.

Producing cement uses a great deal of energy, so finding a waste product that can substitute for cement makes good environmental sense. According to Environmental Building News (EBN), as much greenhouse gas is created producing the Portland cement used in the U.S. as is created operating 22 million compact cars. In addition, the U.S. imports about 20% of the 100 million metric tons of cement it uses annually, adding to its cost and using more energy. Burning coal to make electric power creates a great deal of waste "fly ash," and a smaller amount of slag is created when producing iron in blast furnaces. Coal fly ash, blast furnace slag and other mineral admixtures can substitute for cement in concrete mixes for buildings, saving energy, disposing of a waste product, improving the quality of the concrete, and reducing cost. Cement substitutes should be distinguished from concrete additives, such as plasticizers and air entrainment agents, and from aggregate substitutes, such as ground glass or ground scrap rubber.

Types of Cement Substitutes

Fly ash is one of the byproducts of burning coal to create electric power. Two-thirds of the 55 million tons of fly ash produced in the U.S. in 1999 was sent to waste piles, with only 9 million tons used to make concrete. The carbon content of fly ash is a major concern. Class C fly ash, most of which is produced in the west from lignite coal, contains little carbon. However, Class F fly ash, produced primarily from anthracite and bituminous coal, contains significant amounts of carbon. Class C and Class F material also differ from source to source with regard to strength, rate of strength gain, color and weatherability. Insuring a consistent supply is a concern among concrete suppliers.

Slag is a byproduct from production of both iron and steel, and ground iron slag from blast furnaces can be used for making concrete. About 12.4 million tons of blast furnace slag was used in the U.S. in 1999, of which 2 million tons were used in concrete. In addition, another 1.1 million tons were imported for use by the construction industry. Because the demand for the product is rising while the supply is falling, new grinding plants are coming online to process imported slag. The added energy used to ship and grind the slag makes it somewhat less energy-saving than fly ash, but far better than Portland cement.

Silica fume was once a cheap waste product, but high demand has made it a high-cost admixture, used primarily for bridges and other structures where top weathering performance and high strength are needed. Concrete made from silica fume is expensive, however, not only because of the material cost but because the powdery fineness of the fume makes it hard to handle. It is often turned into slurry before use.

Rice hull ash, as long as quality is controlled, is another material that can be used to replace cement. So far, its use remains in the laboratory stage, although a consistent-quality ash needed for concrete is available.

Slow Strength Gain

Generally, cement substitutes work in two ways. First, they hydrate and cure like Portland cement. Second they are "pozzolans," providing silica that reacts with hydrated lime, an unwanted byproduct of concrete curing. Blast-furnace slag is most like Portland cement and least like a pozzolan. Class F fly ash is most like a pozzolan, with Class C fly ash is somewhere in the middle. While stronger and more durable in the end, it takes more time for pozzolans to gain strength than it does Portland cement. For most construction purposes, high early strength is very desirable because it allows quicker finishing of slabs and earlier removal of forms. Reducing the amount of water  can compensate for slow strength gain. Researchers have made concrete in the lab from high-percentages of cement substitute by drastically reducing the water content and adding "superplasticizers" to maintain the required slump, but such mixes are not yet common and may be costly. Mixes with 15% to 25% fly ash and somewhat higher percentages of slag can be used in home building with only modest slowing of strength gain. Higher percentages can be used in footings, where high early strength is typically not important. Precasters and concrete masonry unit (CMU) producers can maintain precise control of the mix, and use more admixtures. However, they require high early strength for fast re-use of forms, so precast concrete seldom has high percentages of cement substitutes.

Air Entrainment and Carbon Content

Some fly ash, notably most of the Class F fly ash used in the east, contains high levels of carbon (unburned coal particles resulting from the lower-temperature "low-NOx" burning that improves air quality). Carbon particles absorb the soapy air-entraining chemicals used to improve cold weather performance, and in this way make the air content unpredictable. This problem has led some northern suppliers to substitute slag admixture for fly ash, since slag contains no carbon. The fly ash industry is addressing this problem by processing high-carbon fly ash to remove most of the carbon.

Concrete with mineral admixtures may require more air-entraining chemicals to ensure freeze-thaw protection, because the small particles of these minerals can fill voids in the concrete that would otherwise be air bubbles.

Strength

Strength is improved by the substitution of some mineral admixtures for Portland cement. Class C fly ash and slag improve strength more than Class F fly ash. In applications where high strength is critical, such as in high-rise buildings, silica fume is the cement substitute of choice, resulting in compressive strengths of 15,000 psi and higher.

Color

Class C fly ash results in a buff-colored concrete; Class F is a darker gray. Slag concrete is lighter in color with high reflectivity. During curing, slag concrete may show a blue-green mottling, called "greening." However, the color is usually gone from the surface in a week. Its disappearance depends on oxidation, so slag cement is not recommended for swimming pools.

Weatherability

There are three weatherability conditions that cement substitutes help alleviate:

•    Permeability and Chloride-Induced Corrosion: De-icing salts can migrate through pores in the concrete, break down the passive protective layer around the resteel and cause corrosion that leads to spalling. The pozzolanic action of cement substitutes removes the calcium hydroxide that makes the concrete permeable, and therefore is highly desirable in roadways. A high percentage of fly ash is not recommended for slabs and paving exposed to the weather because of dusting and scaling of the surface.

 •    Alkali-Silica Reaction (ASR): High-silica aggregates and high-alkali cement (which is becoming more common) can create ASR, which causes internal expansion and crazing of concrete. Cement substitutes, especially slag, remove the alkalinity through pozzolanic action. Class C fly ash varies in this ability, while Class F fly ash is very effective.

 Sulfate Attack: Concrete made with 60% or more slag is very effective in mitigating attack by sulfates, found in some arid soils, seawater and wastewater. The pozzolanic action of fly ash also contributes to sulfate resistance.

 
Although the Federal government and the heavy construction industry have used cement substitutes for decades, residential contractors are less familiar with their use. As the fly ash industry develops processes to remove carbon, variations in the composition of fly ash will become less important and its popularity will rise. The U.S. blast furnace slag supply is declining and the demand growing, so future growth in its use depends on imports. Silica fume remains costly and difficult to handle, and rice hull ash and other potential substitutes are not yet being marketed.

Do you know your flood risk?
Call your local emergency management office, building department or floodplain management office for information about flooding. Ask to see a flood map of your community. There may be a projected flood elevation for your neighborhood. This information will help you determine how much water is likely to come in.

Do you have enough flood insurance?
Even if you have taken steps to protect your home from flooding, you still need flood insurance if you live in a floodplain. Homeowners' policies do not cover flood damage, so you will probably need to purchase a separate policy under the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP).



Is the main electric switchbox located above potential flood waters?
The main electric panel board (electric fuses or circuit breakers) should be at least 12" above the projected flood elevation for your home. The panel board height is regulated by code. All electrical work should be done by a licensed electrician.

Are electric outlets and switches located above potential flood waters? Consider elevating all electric outlets, switches, light sockets, baseboard heaters and wiring at least 12" above the projected flood elevation for your home. You may also want to elevate electric service lines (at the point they enter your home) at least 12" above the projected flood elevation.

In areas that could get wet, connect all receptacles to a ground fault interrupter (GFI) circuit to avoid the risk of shock or electrocution.A certified inspector will test all GFCI circuits.

Are the washer and dryer above potential flood waters?
For protection against shallow flood waters, the washer and dryer can sometimes be elevated on masonry or pressure-treated lumber at least 12" above the projected flood elevation. Other options are moving the washer and dryer to a higher floor, or building a floodwall around the appliances.
  Are the furnace and water heater above potential flood waters?
The furnace and water heater can be placed on masonry blocks or concrete at least 12" above the projected flood elevation, moved to inside a floodwall or moved to a higher floor. (You have more options for protecting a new furnace. Ask your utility about rebates for new energy efficient furnaces. The rebate plus the savings in fuel costs could make the purchase feasible.)

Furnaces that operate horizontally can be suspended from ceiling joists if the joists are strong enough to hold the weight. Installing a draft-down furnace in the attic may be an option if allowed by local codes. Some heating vents can be located above the projected flood elevation.

Outside air conditioning compressors, heat pumps or package units (single units that include a furnace and air conditioner) can be placed on a base of masonry, concrete or pressure treated lumber. All work must conform to state and local building codes.This is very important it takes the right building material and the proper installation.Accurate home inspection of atlanta will evaluate areas and view possible sign you would not no to look for.

Is the fuel tank anchored securely?
A fuel tank can tip over or float in a flood, causing fuel to spill or catch fire. Cleaning up a house that has been inundated with flood waters containing fuel oil can be extremely difficult and costly.

Fuel tanks should be securely anchored to the floor. Make sure vents and fill line openings are above projected flood levels. Propane tanks are the property of the propane company. You'll need written permission to anchor them. Ask whether the company can do it first. Be sure all work conforms to state and local building codes.

Does the floor drain have a float plug?
Install a floating floor drain plug at the current drain location. If the floor drain pipe backs up, the float will rise and plug the drain.

Does the sewer system have a backflow valve?
If flood waters enter the sewer system, sewage can back up and enter your home. To prevent this, have a licensed plumber install an interior or exterior backflow valve. Check with your home inspector.

You may have other options for avoiding flood damage depending on your needs and financial resources. These include building drainage systems around the property, sealing openings such as low windows, building levees, constructing exterior floodwalls around basement doors and window wells, improving exterior walls, elevating buildings above projected flood levels and relocating buildings away from floodplains. For more information, allways hire a qualified home inspection to find underlying problems that could provide the inspector with tale- tale signs.

Atlanta Home Inspection Service. Website www.findmeaninspector.com Atlanta Master building Inspector with a 5 star customer service rating."We go beyond the basics for our customers"

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Determining the Humidity Limits-

Many people believe that 25 percent relative humidity as a lower level is still too high. The debate breaks predictably into several camps with the engineers (the aircraft people being the most vocal) arguing for no lower limit for health and only a discussion on comfort. Whereas the lung researchers and some MD's argue that until there is definitive research, why not keep the level high from a prudent avoidance perspective. This of course terrifies the microbiologists and mold researchers since higher lower limits clearly lead to mold growth in buildings and are associated with microbial contamination in typical residential humidifiers.
So on the lower limit there is no real consensus, but only a current compromise recommendation. It is pretty clear that the lower limit will not go up. The only question is how low it will end up. At present, 25 percent relative humidity is the current compromise recommendation within ASHRAE.

On the upper end, there is an emerging consensus. Interior relative humidity should be maintained so that a 70 percent relative humidity at a building surface is avoided in order to control mold growth and should never rise above 60 percent in any event.

Relative Humidity, Surface Humidity, and Condensation

Consensus among microbiologists gives the critical relative humidity for adverse biological activity to occur on building envelope surfaces to be 70 percent. Where a relative humidity above 70 percent occurs at surfaces, mold growth, dust mite growth, decay, corrosion, etc. can occur. Therefore, conditions should be maintained within a building such that the critical 70 (or higher) percent relative humidity at a building envelope surface does not occur. Due to climate differences, interior conditions which must be maintained to avoid the critical relative humidity at a surface vary from region to region and time of year. They also vary based on the thermal resistance of the building envelope.

This means in winter months in cold climates interior relative humidity should be kept as low as possible but within the comfort and health range (i.e. above 25 percent if you believe ASHRAE Standard 62-2001).
In the summer months it means that interior relative humidity should never exceed 60 percent for both comfort and health reasons.
There is a fundamental difference between relative humidity measured in the middle of a conditioned space, and the relative humidity found at surfaces due to the significant difference in temperature typically found between surfaces and the air in the middle of a conditioned space.

For a given sample of air containing water, relative humidity goes up as the temperature goes down. If the air in the middle of a room is 70 degrees at a relative humidity of 40 percent, any surface below 45 degrees will be able to condense water. Any surface below 54 degrees will have air adjacent it at a relative humidity of 70 percent - the mold limit.

Whereas when air in the middle of the room is 70 degrees at a relative humidity of 25 percent, the temperature of a condensing surface drops to 32 degrees from 45 degrees. And a surface with a relative humidity adjacent to it of 70 percent drops to 40 degrees from 54 degrees.

In other words, for condensation to occur with air at 70 degrees and a relative humidity of 25 percent, surfaces need to be colder than 32 degrees. For mold to grow, surfaces need to be colder than 40 degrees. Of course, in a nice and happy coincidence, mold does not like to grow at surfaces below 40 degrees, but will happily grow at 54 degrees. What does this tell us? Well, if surfaces are likely to be cold - say like in the winter - you are better off having a lower relative humidity.

Where relative humidities near surfaces are maintained below 70 percent, mold and other biological growth can be controlled. Since relative humidities are dependant on both temperature and vapor pressure, mold control is dependant on controlling both the temperature and vapor pressure near surfaces.

Surface Humidity and Building Assemblies: Applications in Heating Climates

In heating climates, mold growth on interior surfaces occurs during the heating season because the interior surfaces of exterior walls are cool from heat loss and because moisture levels within the conditioned space are too high. Mold growth control is facilitated by preventing the interior surfaces of exterior wall and other building assemblies from becoming too cold and by limiting interior moisture levels. The key is to prevent relative humidities adjacent surfaces from rising above 70 percent. The thermal resistance of the building envelope and the local climate determine the interior surface temperatures of exterior walls and other building assemblies. Controlled ventilation and source control limit the interior moisture levels.

Experience has shown, that where interior moisture levels in very cold climates during the heating season are limited to the 25 percent relative humidity at 70 degrees, relative humidities adjacent to the interior surfaces of exterior walls (of typical code minimum thermal resistance) fall below 70 percent and mold growth is controlled. The colder the climate (for the thermal resistance of any given building envelope) the lower the interior relative humidity necessary to prevent 70 percent relative humidities occurring adjacent interior surfaces of exterior walls. Building enclosures of similar thermal resistance interior moisture levels during the heating season. A 25 percent interior relative humidity at 70 degrees would be appropriate for Minneapolis. Whereas interior relative humidities up to 35 percent at 70 degrees would be appropriate for Cincinnati - which is located in a cold climate rather than a very cold
climate . Correspondingly, the higher the desired interior relative humidity, the higher the
thermal resistance necessary to control relative humidities adjacent to interior surfaces.

In a mixed climate, during the heating season, interior moisture levels should be limited to 45 percent relative humidity at 70 degrees. This limits the relative humidity adjacent to the interior surface of exterior walls to below 70 percent for the typical thermal resistance found in most building assemblies in this climate zones.
In cooling climates, interior mold growth also occurs because interior surfaces are typically cold and then exposed to moisture levels that are too high. The cold surfaces in cooling climates arise from the air conditioning of enclosures. When exterior hot air is cooled, its relative humidity increases. If the exterior hot air is also humid, cooling this air will typically raise its relative humidity above the point at which mold growth can occur (70 percent).
Where air conditioned "cold" air is supplied to a room, and this air can be "blown" against an interior surface due to poor diffuser design, diffuser location, or diffuser performance, creating cold spots on the interior gypsum board surfaces. Although this cold air is typically dehumidified before it is supplied to the conditioned space, it can create a mold problem on room surfaces as a result of high levels of airborne moisture within the room contacting the cooled surface. This typically leads to a rise in relative humidity near the surface and a corresponding mold problem.

If exterior humid air comes in contact with the interstitial cavity side of cooled interior gypsum board mold and other biological growth can occur. Cooling this exterior hot, humid air by air conditioning or contact with cool surfaces will raise its relative humidity above 70 percent. When nutrients are present mold and other growth occurs. This is exacerbated with the use of impermeable wall coverings such as vinyl wallpaper that can trap moisture between the interior finish and the gypsum board. When these interior finishes are coupled with cold spots (from poor diffuser placement and/or overcooling) and exterior moisture, mold and other growth can occur.

Accordingly, one of the most practical solutions in controlling mold and other biological growth in cooling climates is the prevention of hot, humid exterior air, or other forms of moisture transport, from contacting the interior cold (air conditioned) gypsum board surfaces (controlling the vapor pressure at the surface). This is most commonly facilitated by maintaining the conditioned space at a positive air pressure to the exterior and the installation of an exterior vapor diffusion retarder. Pressurization of building assemblies
is expedited by airtight construction.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

Building code inspector officals have been inconsistant in their reactions to the concerns about indoor air quality.Concerns about energy consumption in the 1970's forced many building code inspectors to severly restrict the amount of outside air used in the building.Indoor air quality concerns have reversed that trend,with some communties now insisting on very large amounts of outside air for wall cavity,and many other building applications.

Building Pressurization-Outside air intrduced into a building and inside air exhausted to the outside are both forms of ventilation.Properly using and balancing each type of air is essential.Stack effect and wind influence a building's internal pressure.Stack effect,caused by buoyant warm air rising to the top of the building surronded by cold air,increases the pressure at the top of the building envelope.The bottom of the building has less pressure than the top as the warm air inside rises from it.The building expells warm air at its top(because high pressure there)while inhaling cold outside air at its lower pressure.A properly operating ventilation system should be setup to slightly pressurize the interior space.This is not possible under all conditions.The goal,however,of a property operating ventilation system is to provide building pressure under most conditions.There are many benefits to slight postive pressure.Reduction in air infiltration into the home like uncontrolled drafts and dust intake.Positive pressure is attained by properly balancing the exhaust and intake air supplies to the building.Ventilation air is required throughout the year,including when tempertures are well below freezing.

Humidity Control-Proper regulation of humidity is of increasing concern to control condensation in wall cavitys,and to assure good air quality.Air that is to moist or dry can lead to serious problems such as mold growth.Living in the south east where humidity levels are sometimes in the 80 to 90% range on certain days.Damage to the building structure and occupants illness can be caused by improper humidity control.Indoor air quality-the existence of bacteria,mold,and other micoorganisms in the air-is often related to humidity control.What relative humidity should I have in my home? Seems like a simple enough question. However, the answer can sometimes be difficult to understand.

Elevated relative humidity at a surface - 70 percent or higher - can lead to problems with mold, corrosion, decay and other moisture related deterioration. When relative humidity reaches 100 percent, condensation can occur on surfaces leading to a whole host of additional problems. An elevated relative humidity in carpet and within fabrics can lead to dust mite infestation and mildew (mildew is mold growing on fabrics).
Low relative humidity can lead to discomfort, shrinkage of wood floors and wood furniture, cracking of paint on wood trim and static electricity discharges.

The key is not to be too low and not to be too high. High enough to be comfortable, but low enough to avoid moisture problems associated with mold, corrosion, decay, and condensation.
Unfortunately, determining the correct range depends on where the home is located (climate), how the home is constructed (the thermal resistance of surfaces determines surface temperatures), the time of year (the month or season determines surface temperatures), and the sensitivity of the occupants.

Limits to Relative Humidity-Comfort and Health Aspects

How low can you go? Comfort wise at least, the 2001 ASHRAE Fundamentals (8.12) tells us that at dew point temperatures of less than 32 degrees F, complaints of dry nose, throat, eyes, and skin occur. A dew point of 32 degrees converts to a relative humidity of 25 percent at 68 degrees.
How high can you go? Again, using comfort as the criteria, the 2001 ASHRAE Fundamentals (8.12) tells us that a relative humidity of 60 percent should not be exceeded.
This is consistent with ASHRAE Standard 62-2001 Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality, which recommends that the lower boundary of the relative humidity range be limited to 25 percent and the upper boundary of the relative humidity range be limited to 60 percent.
Now, it is important to consider the ASHRAE definition of comfort: "combinations of indoor space environment and personal factors that will produce thermal environmental conditions acceptable to 80 percent or more of the occupants within a space." Remember that you can't please all of the people all of the time.

The ranges cited above do not consider health, except indirectly. Some people love to live in desert climates, and some people love to live in the tropics. The upper limits from a health perspective are indirectly derived from a desire to control the growth of mold, bacteria, and other disease vectors. Similarly, for the lower limits, although the lower limits tend to be arguably "healthier" from a disease vector perspective. Dry conditions do not favor mold, most bacteria, and other disease vectors.
However, some have argued that dry conditions dry out the mucus linings of the respiratory system and therefore make it more difficult for the body to fight off invaders. The other side of the argument is that there are fewer invaders to worry about.

As can be expected, individual sensitivities and susceptibilities vary greatly, and it is typically very difficult to generalize with respect to relative humidity and health. Having said it is difficult to generalize, we will do so anyway. Keeping relative humidity in the 25 percent to 60 percent range tends to minimize most health issues - although opinions vary greatly.

                              ACCURATE HOME INSPECTION OF ATLANTA

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Electrical Home Fires National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), electrical distribution was the largest cause of property damage wreaking $643.2 million in property damage in home structure fires,38300 reported home electrical fires resulted in 284 deaths, 1184 injuries and $668.8 million in direct property damage.49,200 heating equipment related home fires resulted in 388 deaths, 1,445 injuries and $515 million in property damage. In 2000, 18 home fires killed 5 or more people. These 18 fires resulted in 99 deaths, accounting for 3% of all home fire deaths. 14,300 clothes dryer fires, resulted in 19 deaths, 312 injuries and $67.7 million in direct property damage. According to the latest statistics from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), household wiring also tied with small appliances as the leading cause of accidental electrocutions associate with consumer products.If you fall into any of these cataglories;Owner of a home 40 or more years old; Owner of a home 10 or more years old that has had major renovation, addition or major new appliance; or New owner of a previously owned home.

Even in younger homes, new homeowners should take an active role in understanding the condition of the current electrical system, its capacity, limitations, and potential hazards.Inspector or a qualified, licensed electrician to inspect the home's circuitry and ensure the home's circuits are not overloaded and the home's electrical service can adequately supply the demand.To minimize fire and shock hazards,  and to assure proper grounding is present because it is essential.

Electrical inspections can catch problems  correct them before they turn tragic. In many cases, technologies such as ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) and newer arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) can be installed to help prevent a fire and accidental electrocution. The bottom line is: Inspect and Protect - call a qualified, building inspector.To minimize fire and shock hazards, proper grounding is essential.

Many homeowners don't understand the dangerous effect age has on their home's electrical system, we hope homeowners will regard an electrical inspection as an essential part of routine home maintenance.I would recommend that home owners any time they had a Hvac system,water heater,or home addtion be inspected.Their could be problems with installations not by standard building codes,safety issue overlooked and you will be left with the cost of these correction at one point in time.
One of the most important safety devices in your home is a simple electrical device called a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI).If GFCIs were installed in every U.S. home, according to the Electrical Safety Foundation International, it is estimated that nearly 70 percent of the 330 electrocutions occurring each year in the home could be prevented.

To help prevent fires in your home, you should:

• Conduct a fire-hazard hunt in and around your home. Many things around the home can be fire hazards. Taking time to look for and eliminate hazards greatly reduces your risk. In your hazard hunt, include your barns, outbuildings, or any other structures that house animals. Invite your local fire department to examine your barns and outbuildings and give you suggestions.

• If you smoke, choose fire-safe cigarettes. They are less likely to cause fires. Encourage smokers to smoke outside.

• Avoid smoking in bed, or when drowsy or medicated. Bed linens are highly combustible.It is easier to be burned, and highly likely individuals will suffer severe burns, when fires start in beds. Drowsy or medicated people may forget lit materials, resulting in fire. Never allow smoking in a home where oxygen is in use.

• Provide smokers with deep, sturdy ashtrays. Douse cigarette and cigar butts with water before disposal. Smoking materials are the leading cause of residential fire deaths in the United States.

• Keep matches and lighters up high, away from children, preferably in a locked cabinet.Children are fascinated by fire and may play with matches and lighters if they are not kept out of reach.

• Make sure your home heating sources are clean and in working order. Many home fires are started by poorly maintained furnaces or stoves, cracked or rusted furnace parts, or chimneys with creosote buildup.

• Be sure all portable and fixed space heaters have been certified by an independentKeep blankets, clothing, curtains, furniture, and anything that could get hot and catch fire at least three feet away from all heat sources. Plug heaters directly into the wall socket rather than using an extension cord and unplug them when they are not in use or occupants go to bed.

Facts and Fiction About Residential Fires

Fiction:-Water can be used to put out any fire.

Facts:-Some fires, like those caused by grease, can be spread by throwing water on the fire. If a fire starts in a pot on the stove, you should slide a lid on the pot and turn off the burner.

Fiction:-If a fire starts in my home, I can put it out with my fire extinguisher and not trouble the fire department.

Facts:

The use of electrical systems is constantly expanding, as more types of electrical appliances and equipment are used in the home.The increasing affordability of electrical equipment also adds to the problem.Many homes now have several TVs,stereos,and computers.Another problem with electrical systems is that they don't get better with age.Insulation on wiring does not improve with age.In fact,some types of insulation become brittle,crumble,or dissolve from moisture.Therefore there are many of reasons to evaluate the electrical system of a house by modern standards,not by the practice of the construction at the time.