Atlanta Inspection News! Consumer information: April 2008

 Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta www.findmeaninspector.com

CRAWL SPACES
It's always down there under the floor. Most of the time it's quiet and leaves you alone, but every once in a while, especially if you've ignored it for a long time, it may seek a way to remind you that hey! It needs a little occasional attention!It's that word "occasion" that gets to most of us, because it's often not a happy occasion, that reason which forces us to go down into... the crawlspace.Since solutions to crawlspace problems vary according to location, rather than try to provide one explanation which will apply to all crawlspaces, we'll discuss the forces that effect crawlspaces and through them... the living space. Your goal in approaching the subject of crawlspace conditions is to manipulate moisture, temperature and environmental hazards to create a safe, comfortable home environment.

1. MOISTURE-Two Kinds of Moisture
 liquid and vapor forms. Vapor is very tiny droplets of water suspended in air. The amount of water vapor in the air is measured as relative humidity. High humidity means lots of water in the air.Even in dry climates it's not uncommon for 10 gallons of water a day to enter a crawlspace through evaporation from the soil. This amount can be far higher if the homesite is in a wet climate, above a spring, an underground stream or has a high water table. Moisture intrusion of the crawlspace may be seasonal or may only be a problem when annual rainfall is unusually high.

WHY MOISTURE IS A PROBLEM-Mold
Mold is actually a fungus. There are many different kinds of mold fungi and they're found everywhere on earth, in almost every environment, including inside our bodies. In many situations they are not only harmless, but necessary for life to proceed normally.
When moisture levels in a material approach 20%, fungi begin to become active. The more moisture available, the more active fungi will be and the faster fungal colonies will grow.
As moisture levels drop, fungal activity slows and when moisture levels drop below about 20%, activity stops.

Here are the two main ways in which fungal activity is a problem...
High spore concentrations in indoor air: Fungi reproduce by releasing spores. Spores are like microscopic seeds which produce new fungi. With moisture intrusion, spore concentrations in indoor air can reach levels unhealthy for those with weak immune systems, allergies, asthma or lung disease.Decay fungus. Some types of fungus consume material in wood cells, deteriorating these cells and producing what we call wood decay or rot.
 

RADON
Radon is a colorless, odorless, radioactive gas that enters the crawlspace (or home) from the soil beneath the home. The EPA calls Radon the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the US.

Where does Radon come from?

Radon is a decay product of uranium. As underground uranium goes through a series of decays, at one point it becomes radon. Being a gas, radon finds its way to the surface and vents to the atmosphere. If, when it reaches the surface it happens to reach the surface beneath a home, it enters the home.

What's the Danger from Radon?

Because it's a radioactive material, radon will continue to decay. When radon decays, it emits radioactive particles. If radon is inside lungs at the time it decays, these radioactive particles can strike DNA strands in lung cells and cause abnormal lung cell replication, which is lung cancer.

A home inspection is often referred to as an "engineering report", although many home inspectors are not licensed professional engineers. The essential difference between a home inspector and a professional engineer is that the professional engineer can offer opinions based upon engineering judgment and can design specifications for repair or reinforcement of a structural deficiency, although engineering design is typically outside the scope and fee structure of a standard home inspection. Either way, anyone entering the home inspection field should be trained in the unique discipline of home inspection. Assuming that the home inspector or licensed engineer has been properly trained and has sufficient experience, either person should be able to provide a satisfactory, detailed inspection of a property.

Should a buyer get a home inspection for a home they are buying? Should a seller order a home inspection prior to putting the property on the market? There are advantages for both.
 Simply put, a home inspection is a visual examination of both the physical structure and major systems of the entire home including: walls, ceilings, floors, decks, exterior covering, the roof, foundation, insulation and ventilation, plumbing, electrical, heating and air conditioning. It is not an appraisal to validate the value of a home, nor a pass/fail exam. A third-party inspector will give a report on the physical condition and suggest repairs

Accurate Home inspection of Atlanta

Wood members are most commonly joined together with nails, but on occasion metal straps, lag screws,bolts, staples, and adhesive can be used. Proper fastening of frame members and covering materials provides rigidity and strength. For example, proper fastening of intersecting walls usually reduces cracking of plaster at the inside comers.

Floor framing consists of columns or posts, beams, sill plates, joists, and subfloor. Assembled on a foundation,they form a level anchored platform for the rest of the house and a strong diaphragm to keep the lateral earth pressure from pushing in the top of the foundation wall.The columns or posts and beams of wood or steel that support the joists over a basement are sometimes replaced by frame or masonry walls when the basement area is divided into rooms. Floors of the second story are generally supported on load-bearing walls in the first story.Wood-frame houses may also be constructed over a crawl space with floor framing similar to that used over a basement or on a concrete slab as shown in the section on foundations.

An important consideration in the design of a wood floor system is wood shrinkage. When wood with a high moisture content is used, subsequent shrinkage can result in cracks, doors that stick, and other problems. This is particularly important where wood beams are used,because wood beams may shrink and foundation walls will not. In beams and joists used in floor framing, moisture content should not exceed 19 percent; about 15 percent is a much more desirable maximum. Dimension material can be obtained at either of these moisture contents, when specified.

Grades of dimension lumber vary considerably with wood species. For the specific uses described in this publication,material is divided into five categories. The first category is the highest quality, the second is better than average, the third average, and the fourth and fifth for more economical construction. Joists and beams are usually of a species of second category material, while sills and posts are usually of third or fourth category.

Stairways and other openings that penetrate the floor structure should be located so as to interrupt as few members as possible. Stairways should be oriented parallel to floor joists so that only one joist need be interrupted with 24-inch on-center joist spacing. Wherever possible, the stair opening should be coordinated with a normal joist location on at least one side. Stairways should never interrupt a structural beam or bearing wall when it can be avoided.

The stairway design should be completed before floor framing begins, because the stairwell opening must be framed at the time the floor is constructed. The roughframed opening for a stairwell should be 1 inch wider than the desired finished stairway width. The length ofthe opening must be accommodated to tread run and stair rise, which in turn are governed by total rise.Other openings such as those for clothes chutes and flue hole should also be located to avoid interrupting framing members. Two-foot on-center spacing of joists generallyprovides ample clearance for such openings.

A wood-frame floor system should be anchored to the foundation to resist wind forces acting on the structure.This is usually done with a 2- by 6-inch sill plate attached to the foundation by ½-inch anchor bolts at 8-foot intervals.Floor joists are toenailed to the sill plate.The sill plate may also be attached with anchor straps that are embedded in the foundation in the same manner and at the same spacing as anchor bolts. These devices do not require holes in the sill plate; metal straps are simply bent up around the plate and nailed. Anchor straps are less exacting and do not interfere with other framing as conventional bolts often do.

Sill plates may be entirely eliminated where the top of a foundation of poured concrete (fig. 27B) or concrete block is sufficiently level and accurate. Joists may bear directly on a solid concrete wall or on a top course of solid concrete block. They may also bear directly on cross webs of hollow core block or on cores that have been filled with mortar. Where the sill plate is omitted, anchorage of the floor system may be provided by anchor strap devices, as described above. The straps should be spaced to coincide with joist locations so that each may be nailed directly to the side of a joist.

As noted previously, a foundation of pressure-treatedwood does not require a sill plate or special anchor devices. Floor joists bear directly on the top foundation wall plate and are toenailed to provide anchorage.

Wood posts or steel columns are generally used in the basement to support wood or steel beams. Masonry piers or wood posts are commonly employed in crawl-space houses.Steel pipe columns can be used to support either wood or steel beams. They are normally supplied with a steel

bearing plate at each end. Secure anchoring to the beam is important.Wood posts should be solid, pressure-treated, and not less than 6 by 6 inches in size for freestanding use in a basement. When combined with a framed wall, they may be 4 by 6 inches to conform to the width of the studs.

Wood posts should be squared at both ends and securely fastened to the beam (fig. 30). The bottom of the post should rest on and be pinned to a masonry pedestal 2 to 3 inches above the finish floor.

Wood-frame floor construction typically employs a beam or girder to provide intermediate support for the first floor. In two-story construction, the beam generally supports the second floor as well via a load-bearing wall extending along the center of the first story.

For maximum benefit in reducing joist spans, beams and bearing walls should be located along the centerline of the structure. In some cases it may be desirable to offset the center support 1 foot from the centerline to provide for even-length joists; for example, in a 30-foot-deep floor system, displace the centerline to 14 and 16 feet from the two sides instead of 15 feet from both. However,as discussed later, this is not necessary if off-center spliced joists are used.

For equal widths, the built-up beam is stronger than the solid beam.

Built-up beams are constructed by nailing three or four layers of dimension lumber together. The built-up beam may be made longer than any of the individual members by butting the ends of the members together. These butt joints must be staggered between adjacent layers so that they are separated by 16 inches. In addition, the built-up beam must be supported by a column or pier positioned within 12 inches of the butt joints.

Typical allowable spans for built-up wood beams are shown in table 5. Dry lumber should always be used to avoid settlement problems caused by shrinkage of the built-up beam and the joists it supports. It is not necessary to use a wood plate over wood beams, because floor joists can be nailed directly to the beam.Ends of wood beams should bear at least 4 inches on the masonry walls or pilasters. When wood is untreated, a ½-inch air space should be provided at each end and sideof wood beams framing into masonry (fig. 31). The topof the beam should be level with the top of the sill plates on the foundation walls.

Steel I-beams are often used because they have greater strength and stiffness than wood beams, which enables them to carry a given load over a given span with a beam of lesser depth and thus provides greater headroom or reduces the requirement for additional supporting posts.Allowable spans for steel I-beams are shown in table 6.However, steel beams require an additional supplier,which can complicate delivery schedules. They are also heavier and more difficult to handle in the field. The total cost of a steel beam, including columns or piers, is generally greater than that of a wood beam.Where steel beams are used, a wood plate 2 by 4 or 2 by 6 inches across is usually attached to the top surfaceby bolting or by driving nails part way into the sides of the plate and bending the protruding nail shanks over the edges of the beam flange. Floor joists are then toenailed to the beam plate to anchor to the floor and to provide lateral bracing for the beam. A beam plate is not required if the floor joists are secured by other means.

Floor joists are selected primarily to meet strength and stiffness requirements. Strength requirements depend on the load to be carried. Stiffness requirements place an arbitrary control on deflection under load. Stiffness is also important in limiting vibrations from moving loads-often a cause of annoyance to occupants.Wood floor joists have generally nominal thickness of 2 inches and nominal depth of 8, 10, or 12 inches. The size required depends upon the loading, length of span, spacing between joists, and species and grade of lumber used. After the sill plates have been anchored to the foundation walls and the center beam installed, the joists are laid out according to the house design. The center-to-center spacings most commonly used are 24 inches or 16 inches.Span tables for floor joists, provided by the NationalForest Products Association or in local building codes,can be used as guidelines. Table 7 is a simplified version for joists spaced 24 inches on center and table 8 for 16 inches on center. The sizes shown in the table are minimal;it is sometimes desirable to use the next larger lumber size than that listed in the table.

Joists should be inspected for straightness visually, as they are being placed. Any joists having a slight crook edgewise should be placed with the crown on top. A crowned joist tends to straighten out when subfloor and normal floor loads are applied. Those joists that are notcrowned should be inspected for the presence of knots along the edge. The largest edge knots should placed on top, because knots on the upper side of a joist are placed in compression and have less effect on strength.The header joist is fastened by nailing through it into the end of each joist with three 12d or 16d nails. In addition, the header joist and the stringer joists parallel to the exterior wall in platform construction are toenailed to the sill with 10d or 12d nails spaced 16 inches on center. Each joist should be toenailed to the sill and

Allowable spans for simple floor joists spaced 24 inches on center for wood with modulus of elasticity

FLOOR FRAMING;

Floor framing includes setting columns,beams,sills,headers,joist and applying the subfloor.These form a strong,solid base on which the interior and exterior walls rest,and carry other loads such dead loads,live loads,etc...The floor also forms a diapham to resist the lateral pressure from the earth and subsurface water that is pressing on the fondation wall,tending to push it inward.

FLOOR BEAMS; Usually the span from the foundation wall to the other is so long beams are installed to shorten the distance.Steel beams are often used,as well as solid and built-up wood beams.

Parallel Strand Lumber; Parallel strand lumber is used for beams,headers,columns,and post.It can be sawed,drilled,and nailed like solid wood.It has been accepted by building codes in the united states.

Post, joist, and decking or flooring should be either pressure-treated wood or a specie, such as redwood or cypress, that naturally resist decay when exposed to the elements.Porches may be tongue-groove boards, providing a closed floor, or square-edge boards with a space between, allowing for drainage.Tongue-and-groove trap water in the grooves and tend to deteriorate faster than open floor material. Tongue and groove porches floors require frequent painting or other water proofing.Porch floors, such as those used on a second-floor porch or balcony,are often waterproofed to keep the water from dripping onto the area below.They are built ,flashed, and waterproofed much like a flat roof. The decking can be waterproof plywood.

Decks are usually floored with 2-inch planks, spaced 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch apart to permit drainage and allow the floor to have cirulation,thus drying the planks.

Air Cirulations:

Porch and deck material must be installed so that air can circulate between adjacent members and promote drying.Some framers prefer to solid beams,because moisture tends to get between the built-up members and could possibly produce rot and damage.

Connectors;

Metal connectors,such as joist hangers and angles,must be heavily galvanized and designed for exterior ues.Nails must be galvanized or aluminum.Since the wood is exposed to the weather,it is subject to expansion and contraction.This tends to loosen nails and weaken joints.Bolts or screws provide more permanent connection.These must be weather resistant.Wood ledger strips can be used

All new homes have defects, regardless of the competence and integrity of the builder or the construction supervisor. If this were not the case, the essential imperfection of humanity would be disproved. Some new homes have repair lists that are long, while other lists contain only a few items. In most cases, defects are minor in nature, but serious problems, such as violations of safety requirements, are not uncommon. A home inspector can spend three or more hours searching for construction errors in one home; a municipal inspector cannot. A home inspector can spend an entire workday inspecting just two houses; a municipal inspector cannot.

In the long run, a thorough home inspection benefits the builder, as well as the buyer, by reducing the number of repair callbacks that might occur after the home is sold. It lessens the possibility of injury to occupants, and limits the likelihood of future lawsuits. Builders, in fact, would be well advised to hire a home inspector of their own to provide a final "punchout" list when the construction is completed. Then the buyers' home inspector would be less likely to irritate the supervisor with further disclosures.

Buyers hire home inspectors as consultants prior to making a major financial investment. They want their purchase decision to be an informed one. Their purchase strategies are often based upon the findings of their inspector.

Declining a home inspection is a big mistake;Your first course of action is to find the most qualified and experienced home inspector in the area and have your home thoroughly evaluated. A good inspector will find more defects than you have yet discovered.Home inspectors provide disclosure of visible property defects and spend several hours evaluating each home. They  inspect plumbing, heating and electrical,roof; they crawl through the attic; they inspect the electrical wiring in breaker panels; test electrical outlets; and inspect the foundation crawlspace beneath each building. They evaluate fireplaces, test built-in appliances and verify compliance with numerous safety requirements. They review site drainage conditions, check for signs of faulty construction, and report on physical damage and substandard workmanship.Our home Inspections comprehensive home inspection, you receive a thorough, in-depth visual examination of the structure, the grounds, and the operating components of your home.

1)How many buyers and sellers would be able to evaluate the wiring in an electric service panel?

2)Would they recognize conditions involving overfusing, improper grounding, or the use of a breaker panel as a raceway?

3)How many would be willing to crawl through the dank web-infested recesses beneath a house or the dusty darkness of an attic?

And if they did so, how many would recognize a significant defect in the foundations or framing?How many could identify faulty plumbing and electrical installations; or evidence of seasonal flooding after the soil below the building had become dry; or noncomplying gas piping, gas unions, or gas valves; or a flue pipe that is too close to combustible materials; or the lack of required ventilation; or inadequate clearance at a chimney?

How many could evaluate the functional and safety aspects of a water heater or a furnace? How many could determine the quality, condition and proper installation of a roof, regardless of the type of roof being inspected?The answers here are obvious. Someone with professional knowledge and experience is needed to provide adequate and reliable information about the conditions in, on, under and around a home.

 

ServiceMagic Rating & Reviews Dear Curtis

Congratulations! The Rating and Review below has been approved and added to your website. Every time you match to a lead in the future, potential customers will be able to read this review and see what an excellent job you did. As you well know, potential customers place great importance on comments made by previous customers so these comments will undoubtedly help you win more jobs in the future. Accurate Home Inspection Would you recommend Accurate Home Inspection to a friend or colleague? Yes Describe Your Experience with Accurate Home Inspection: Curtis Petty of AHI was excellent from start to finish. He accurately explained every aspect of what he was going to inspect, showed up at the property promptly and completed a very detailed report with pictures. Very courteous and very professional. Thanks! Congratulations again and thanks for satisfying another ServiceMagic customer! Best Regards, Ratings and Reviews ServiceMagic, Inc. Accurate Home Inspection Would you recommend Accurate Home Inspection to a friend or colleague? Yes Describe Your Experience with Accurate Home Inspection: Kurt Petty was very thorough. He explained his report in great detail and in layman's terms. His knowledge in homes is exceptional!! I found him to be professional, reliable and honest. To see any additional information provided by the consumer on this rating, please visit the Ratings and Reviews section of your member site. Congratulations again and thanks for satisfying another ServiceMagic customer! Best Regards, Ratings and Reviews ServiceMagic, Inc.

 

Hi Kim I wanted to go ahead and forward you the information on an absolutely wnderful home inspector. He recetly completed an inspection for one of our clients and his work was so detailed and so impressive that when I read what you guys were looking for, he immediately came to mind. Here is his information.

Accurate Home Inspections of Atlanta Curtis Petty http://us.f431.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=ahomeinspection1@yahoo.com http://www.findmeaninspector.com/ 404-680-4578 410 Jefferson Ave. Fayetteville, GA 30214   Oliver --
Stephanie Hornbuckle, Realtor
Ph. 678-458-6859
Fax. 678-262-4047
Solid Source Realty
Multi-Million Dollar Producer

We called Mr. Petty to do an inspection on a new home.  We had a very tight deadline because of our closing date.  Mr. Petty worked around our schedule and was able to do the inspection within a few days of our call.  He was professional, thorough, and provided an easy-to-understand report that he emailed to us the next day.  Even our builder commented on how professional and helpful Mr. Petty's report was.  Mr. Petty checked all the home's systems and identified a few problem areas that our builder immediately agreed to fix.  Mr. Petty's report included helpful photographs and descriptions and explanations of important building codes and regulations. His knowledge and expertise are impressive.  And he charges a very reasonable fee for his service.  I would recommend Accurate Home Inspection and Mr. Petty to anyone purchasing a new home in Atlanta.

 

David and Julie Hungeling

 

David J. Hungeling

Law Office of David J. Hungeling, P.C.

Peachtree 25th, Suite 599 1718 Peachtree Street, N.W. Atlanta, Georgia 30309 404-574-2466

404-574-2467 FAX david@hungelinglaw.com http://www.hungelinglaw.com/

  Hey Curtis,   Thanks for the report.   Your service as a home inspector is superb!  It is very easy to get in touch with you for appointments, you are very flexible on scheduling to make it better for the buyer to be there for the inspection, you are always prompt, and best of all have a great attitude and one can tell you really love your work!   You are very thorough and very honest about anything that isn't up to code!  I feel very comfortable that my buyer will know what kind of house they are purchasing after one of your inspections.   It is a pleasure working with you!   Christy Fletcher Metrobrokers/GMAC Real Estate Cell:  678-414-1408 Fax:  770-461-5748 christy.fletcher@metrobrokers.com    

Hello Mr. Petty,

Thank you again for your valuable service.  It was a pleasure doing business with you.

Regards,

Sirena Conway

Mr. Petty was very knowledgeable and very efficient.  His thoroughness was very much appreciated. 

R.Mcdevitt

Stockbridge,Ga

Some friends come into our lives for a hot minute, some for a season and some for a lifetime.  Do you know who your LIFETIME friends are?

 B.Jones  Fayetteville,Ga

Marila Alvarez

**This is excellent! I've never seen one so thorough here in Cinti. I'm moving down to GA next week. Will definitely be referring future clients to you. :) Thanks so much.

Yvonne Patton
Solid Source Realty 513-265-9708

I was very pleased with the home inspection that was done by Curtis Petty. He met me at the home and provided me with an inspection that was thorough and very "accurate." He explained and show to me things that needed correction as well as those things the were working properly and in order. The summary report that he provided was detailed and easy to understand. I used the report as support in order to get all of the needed repairs done to the home before my move-in date. Great home inspection experience.

His card will definitely stay in my wallet and will be given to my friends that are in need of the service he provides!

Thanks Curtis.

La Niece

 Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta,

"Thank you for your dedication to detail, as it saved me from purchasing a home I would have had to put at least another $25,000 in.

The house appeared in pretty good shape but your inspector found things they had painted over, i.e. dry rot, Masonite siding.

Since this is my first experience purchasing a home on my own (my husband did all the checking before and passed away 10 years ago) I can't tell you how relieved I am your inspector found all the big problems as I would have been in REALLY big trouble.

I have since put a bid on another home and want your company to do the inspection as well as a pre-inspection on the home I now own. I will call you for an appointment on my present home and my agent will get in touch with you if they accept my offer.

Again, I can't thank you enough for your help."

Bill K.Mcdonough,ga

Your inspection was very helpful and extremely nice. We will use you again and we have already referred your company to one of our family members.We like your professionalism.

K. Bailey

Your inspection was very thorough, yet finished in a timely manner. You were very professional, very polite & helpful. You helped make what could have been an unpleasant & apprehensive situation a very easy, comfortable & pleasant process.

I was also very impressed with the care & respect you displayed for the present owner's property. We will definitely refer you to friends and family & intend to use your services in our future endeavors."

L.Mehl

Re/Max Atlanta

Accurate Home Inspection

Would you recommend Accurate Home Inspection to a friend or colleague? Yes Describe Your Experience with Accurate Home Inspection: My Petty was very pleasant, and displayed a great working knowledge of his experience in his field. He went through every detail and steps of the home inspection. To see any additional information provided by the consumer on this rating, please visit the Ratings and Reviews section of your member site. Congratulations again and thanks for satisfying another ServiceMagic customer! Best Regards, Ratings and Reviews ServiceMagic, Inc. Curtis, Hello and thank you for sending the report in a timely manner. I truly appreciate the quality of service and reporting which you provided. I will certainly utilize your inspections on future properties and recommend to friends / business associates which are looking to purchase a home. Kind Regards, Ken T. Takekawa Quality Assurance / Environmental Systems Manager TDK Components USA, Inc. 1 TDK Boulevard Peachtree City, GA 30269 (770) 631-0410 ext. 228   Curtis,   I enjoyed meeting you yesterday and truthfully I thought you did an excellent job of the home inspection.  You clearly took the time needed to explain in great detail your opinion of the condition of the home.  Most importantly you took the time to make sure that my client understood the important details you were explaining.  I was very impressed with the time you spent answering all questions.  The report was very detailed and easy to read.  I will certainly be happy to add your name to the list of home inspectors that I refer.  Thanks again for doing such a wonderful job for my client.  I look forward to working with you in the future.   Patty Drake Reality   On September 5, 2002  accurate home Inspection completed a structural inspection of a home that my husband and I are in the process of purchasing. In addition to prompt service, the inspector was extremely helpful, knowledgeable, and professional. In giving the home a thorough inspection, he was able to bring trouble spots, as well as positive aspects of the house to our attention. He was clearly able to answer all of our questions and address our concerns. Needless to say, my husband and I are extremely pleased with the work done for us. We would highly recommend our inspector to anyone in need of a property inspection.                                                                                             N.Cutler                                                                                       Century 21 reality I would like to thank you for the very thorough, professional inspections you performed on the home we are in the process of purchasing. Your work was impeccable and it was a pleasure to see someone take such pains to make sure that everything was in order. We would recommend your services without hesitation to anyone who required them.                                                                                  P.littleton- Roswell Mr. Petty the inspection you performed was very detailed and your service was superb. We will definitely refer you to anyone needing an inspection. Thanks!  Capital Asset Accountant  S.Mitchell MY RATINGS: Accurate Home Inspection OVERALL COMPANY RATING:      City: Atlanta, GA Project: Inspection - General Home (Home Inspector)   "Curtis Petty of AHI was excellent from start to finish. He accurately explained every aspect of what he was going to inspect, showed up at the property promptly and completed a very detailed report with pictures. Very courteous and very professional. Thanks!"     Dennis S. Member Since: December 5, 2007 City: stockbridge, GA Project: Inspection - General Home (Home Inspector)   "Mr. Petty's inspections was thorough and helped us to make an important decision about purchasing a home. He was very professional, knowledgeable, and helped us to understand issues related to the home inspection. Because we decided to look for another home, we using Mr. Petty again for its inspection. Thanks Service Magic! Highly recommend him.!!"     donna w. Member Since: October 21, 2007 City: Stone Mountain, GA Project: Inspection - General Home (Home Inspector)   "My Petty was very pleasant, and displayed a great working knowledge of his experience in his field. He went through every detail and steps of the home inspection. "     Holly D. Member Since: August 1, 2007 City: McDonough, GA Project: Inspection - General Home (Home Inspector)   "Kurt Petty was very thorough. He explained his report in great detail and in layman's terms. His knowledge in homes is exceptional!! I found him to be professional, reliable and honest."     Monica W. Member Since: January 11, 2007 City: Stockbridge, GA Project: Mold & Toxic Material Test   "Mr. Petty was very knowledgeable and very efficient. His thoroughness was very much appreciated. "     City: Lawerenceville, GA Project: Inspection - Roofing   "I am very pleased with the service that Mr. Petty provided. He was helpful and very descriptive, and the report that he provided will be useful for years to come. I will recommend him and use his services again. "

Foggy windows are easy to spot, but they can be a big problem. Look for condensation and water in between double-paned windows. That's a sign the seals around the window's edges aren't working and water vapor is seeping in.

Make sure the windows are functional -- yes, all of them. Newer, inexpensive windows often stop working even after light use, while older windows could be painted or warped shut. You'll kick yourself later if you buy a home with faulty windows just because you didn't use a little muscle. Read more at www.Frontdoor.com

Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, highly-poisonous gas formed by the incomplete combustion of carbon or a carbonaceous material, such as gasoline. Some producers of carbon monoxide (CO) are industrial processes, heating equipment, accidental fire, cigarettes and the internal combustion engine. Generators, candles, and space heaters can all create CO emissions.

CO is always produced when natural gas, liquid propane, oil, coal, gasoline or wood are burned; often at dangerous levels. Exhaust gases need to be vented properly to avoid CO accumulation in any living space. If the combustion takes place with excess oxygen in a properly tuned burner, not much CO is produced but improper adjustment or any smoldering fire can produce significant CO emissions.

How much is too much?
There are many standards for CO exposure limits. The OSHA standard is 50 parts per million (PPM) in the air as a maximum exposure in the workplace. One PPM is defined as one CO molecule in one million molecules of air. This is about the same dilution as one shot glass of gin in a railroad tanker car full of tonic.

The majority of off-the-shelf home CO detectors are designed to alarm at 100 PPM and above, to satisfy current laws concerning home CO alarms. A few home CO meters have digital readouts to show lower levels but they will not alarm at these lower levels.

The American Society of Heating Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) lists a maximum allowable short term limit of nine PPM of CO. The EPA has set two national health protection standards for CO: a one-hour standard of 35 PPM and an eight-hour standard of nine PPM. From the above standards and guidelines it follows that any CO reading over nine PPM should be investigated and acted upon.

Health Effects
Low-level exposure can cause chronic health conditions from cardiovascular disease to a Parkinson's like illness. The following is an excerpt from the EPA: "The health threat from lower levels of CO is most serious for those who suffer from heart disease, like angina, clogged arteries or congestive heart failure. For a person with heart disease, a single exposure to CO at low levels may cause chest pain and reduce that person's ability to exercise; repeated exposures may contribute to other cardiovascular effects. Even healthy people can be affected by high levels of CO. People who breathe high levels of CO can develop vision problems, reduced ability to work or learn, reduced manual dexterity and difficulty performing complex tasks. At extremely high levels, CO is poisonous and can cause death. CO contributes to the formation of smog ground level ozone, which can trigger serious respiratory problems."

Measuring Exposure
There are portable, digital meters that measure various gases. These dosimeters have a digital display of the current level or concentration of CO. If used over time, they can compute the total exposure (over time) in units of PPM-hours. There are guidelines for keeping workplace exposure below 200
PPM-hours for an eight-hour workday.

The variables that are typically reported in a dosimeter are the maximum exposure concentration, the time when this occurs, the total exposure and the time-weighted average (TWA). The TWA is the total exposure divided by the time over which the exposure occurs (i.e. the PPM-hours divided by the period of time in hours you collected the exposure data). If the TWA is over 35 PPM for one hour, you are in an environment that exceeds the EPA's national health protection standard. Dosimeters range in price from the low $100s on up. They sometimes include a maximum exposure reading and a total exposure reading.

If at Risk, Act
If you are in CO levels above nine PPM, you can and should attempt to change your environment by opening a window to ventilate the area with clean air or by leaving the area. Bring in fresh air if possible. While a level of nine PPM is not an emergency, you should look for possible sources and cleaner air. Determine the sources of the CO by looking for activities like smoking, burning toast, vehicle exhaust or a campfire. If the levels are over 35 PPM, consider evacuating until the source is determined. If levels are above 125 PPM, call in a professional fire department and evacuate. www.findmeaninspector.com

NEW HOMES:

*Most purchasers of new homes in atlanta fail to obtain a professional inspection. Instead, they trust that new homes are unlikely to have defects and that any imperfections will inevitably become apparent during the warranty period. These two assumptions have caused financial loss and mournful regrets for many buyers of new homes. It does not mean defect-free.Homes are built by people, and regardless of experience, skill, knowledge, integrity, and good intentions, all people make mistakes. That's the one guaranty that never fails.

Then there is the question of building department approval. Municipal building inspectors provide services that are limited by the time available to perform an inspection. Building departments are typically under-staffed and over-worked. An inspector might have as little as 15 minutes to evaluate a home. Furthermore, municipal inspectors are overoaded and really don't inspect every home. Therefore, the motivation for thoroughness could be missing.

Accurate home inspection of atlanta, the situation is much different. I will spends two-and-a-half on-site, time enough to access and inspect all pertinent areas of the home. As a members of the private business sector, I'm motivated to perform thorough, comprehensive inspections.

I'm competent in my abilitys,education experience, substantial credentials, and a reputation for thoroughness--can provide valuable financial protection to the owners of new homes. The missing ingredient is public awareness of the need to inspect newly built homes. As long as the warranty period is in effect, owners can present a list of repair needs to their builder.I offer with every inspection, through american home warranty a 90 buyers limited warranty and a 120 pre-listing inspection warranty to help motivate sellers wanting to sell their home.

A recent "Good Morning America" investigation finds that government building inspectors are often overworked and sometimes lazy, incompetent or corrupt.

Whether you're remodeling or having a new home built, building inspectors are supposed to check the construction at several crucial phases and make sure it's up to code. Home buyers and remodelers count on those inspections to ensure their houses are safe.

Homeowner Lisa Daniel of Wayne County, N.C., showed "GMA" how the front of her house was seven inches longer than the back, making the house hopelessly out of square and dangerously unstable.

An engineer found more than 25 code violations that the inspector had missed and said the house should be demolished and started over. Daniel never moved in because the house was unfit for occupancy.

"I lost everything I ever had and I've lost everything I ever wanted to have and everything I ever tried to have -- before I even had it," Daniel said. "I never spent a night in this house."

Daniel was so devastated that she followed and videotaped the building inspector who had done her inspection. Her tapes show an insulation inspection where he enters the house and spends just 24 seconds inside. Then he walks out and signs the inspection sheet. Another clip shows the same inspector at another house on a day when he's supposed to inspect framing, electrical and plumbing -- serious safety issues. One minute and 28 seconds later, he exits and signs off on it.

"I couldn't believe that he'd been getting away with this," Daniel said.

Daniel sued Wayne County, which settled for $94,000 without admitting liability. Wayne County wouldn't comment on the specifics of the case. The inspector told us the inspections we saw were quick because they were follow-ups, but he had no response when we revealed he was seen on tape doing the same thing over and over again. As for Daniel, she's still out tens of thousands of dollars.

A National Problem

It's a nationwide hazard. The state of New Jersey investigated shoddy new-home construction and found lazy, incompetent code inspectors were part of the problem.

"Some of them were doing drive-by inspections," said Charlotte Gaal, the lead investigator. "It's not that they got paid off. They just didn't bother."

But some inspectors do get paid off. In the last few years, authorities have brought corruption charges against code inspectors all over the country.

However, the most common scenario of all is something just as hazardous to your home: overwhelmed inspectors.

In the booming Phoenix area, ABC affiliate KNXV found one inspector scheduled to do 206 inspections on a single day. Another city's inspectors conducted an average of 85 inspections every day. Experts told "GMA" 25 to 30 inspections a day was a reasonable amount.

KNXV followed another building inspector last year who had one of the highest caseloads in her town. It's not her fault, but she spent only 24 minutes inspecting seven houses. That town told us its inspectors no longer have to work so fast -- not because the town has hired more inspectors but because building has slowed down there.

"It's critical to have enough people, highly trained, to go out and to do that job," said Rick Weiland, CEO of the International Code Council, the organization that develops building codes and trains code inspectors. "Good code enforcement is extremely important. It's all about public safety."

Of course, many building inspectors are highly competent and routinely catch life-threatening code violations. And any inspector with no code council certification is not going to know what is required. Believe it or not, hundreds of jurisdictions across the country don't have code inspectors.

So if you're thinking of building or remodeling a home, you shouldn't blindly rely on this safety net. Instead, make sure your contract allows you to bring in your own private inspector. Hire somebody who is international code council certified(ICC) in brand-new homes and knows the codes and then have that person to perform a code inspection Certificate of Occupancey inspection.The ICC stes forth all building code residential & commerical standards for structures up to 3 stories.

What Should I ask my Inspector?

1. What does your inspection cover?

The inspector should ensure that their inspection will meet all applicable requirements, and will comply with a well-recognized standard of practice and code of ethics. You should be able to request and see a copy of these items ahead of time and ask any questions you may have. If there are any areas you want to make sure are inspected, be sure to identify them upfront.

2. How long have you been practicing in the home inspection profession and how many inspections have you completed?

The inspector should be able to provide his history in the profession and perhaps even a few names as referrals.

3. Are you specifically experienced in residential inspection?

Related experience in construction or engineering is helpful, but is no substitute for training and experience in the unique discipline of home inspection. If the inspection is for a commercial property, then this should be asked about as well.

4. Do you offer to do repairs or improvements based on the inspection?

Some inspector associations and state regulations allow the inspector to perform repair work on problems uncovered in the inspection. Other associations and regulations strictly forbid this as a conflict of interest.

5. How long will the inspection take?

The average on-site inspection time for a single inspector is two to three hours for a typical single-family house; anything significantly less may not be enough time to perform a thorough inspection. Additional inspectors may be brought in for very large properties and buildings.

6. How much will it cost?

Costs vary dramatically, depending on the region, size and age of the house, scope of services and other factors. A typical range might be $300-$500, but consider the value of the home inspection in terms of the investment being made. Cost does not necessarily reflect quality. HUD Does not regulate home inspection fees.

7. What type of inspection report do you provide and how long will it take to receive the report?

Ask to see samples and determine whether or not you can understand the inspector's reporting style and if the time parameters fulfill your needs. Most inspectors provide their full report within 24 hours of the inspection.

8. Will I be able to attend the inspection?

This is a valuable educational opportunity, and an inspector's refusal to allow this should raise a red flag. Never pass up this opportunity to see your prospective home through the eyes of an expert.

9. Do you maintain membership in a professional home inspector association?

There are many national associations for home inspectors. Request to see their membership ID, and perform whatever due diligence you deem appropriate.

10. Do you participate in continuing education programs to keep your expertise up to date?

One can never know it all, and the inspector's commitment to continuing education is a good measure of his or her professionalism and service to the consumer. This is especially important in cases where the home is much older or includes unique elements requiring additional or updated training.

International code council(ICC),The building code Enforcement Professional Certification Program adopted by the Association provides a means of gaining recognition of the competency levels acceptable for inspection responsibilities and improved professional standing in the community.Inspector #5275830 

Building code inspector officals have been inconsistant in their reactions to the concerns about indoor air quality.Concerns about energy consumption in the 1970's forced many building code inspectors to severly restrict the amount of outside air used in the building.Indoor air quality concerns have reversed that trend,with some communties now insisting on very large amounts of outside air for wall cavity,and many other building applications.

Building Pressurization-Outside air intrduced into a building and inside air exhausted to the outside are both forms of ventilation.Properly using and balancing each type of air is essential.Stack effect and wind influence a building's internal pressure.Stack effect,caused by buoyant warm air rising to the top of the building surronded by cold air,increases the pressure at the top of the building envelope.The bottom of the building has less pressure than the top as the warm air inside rises from it.The building expells warm air at its top(because high pressure there)while inhaling cold outside air at its lower pressure.A properly operating ventilation system should be setup to slightly pressurize the interior space.This is not possible under all conditions.The goal,however,of a property operating ventilation system is to provide building pressure under most conditions.There are many benefits to slight postive pressure.Reduction in air infiltration into the home like uncontrolled drafts and dust intake.Positive pressure is attained by properly balancing the exhaust and intake air supplies to the building.Ventilation air is required throughout the year,including when tempertures are well below freezing.

Humidity Control-Proper regulation of humidity is of increasing concern to control condensation in wall cavitys,and to assure good air quality.Air that is to moist or dry can lead to serious problems such as mold growth.Living in the south east where humidity levels are sometimes in the 80 to 90% range on certain days.Damage to the building structure and occupants illness can be caused by improper humidity control.Indoor air quality-the existence of bacteria,mold,and other micoorganisms in the air-is often related to humidity control.What relative humidity should I have in my home? Seems like a simple enough question. However, the answer can sometimes be difficult to understand.

Elevated relative humidity at a surface - 70 percent or higher - can lead to problems with mold, corrosion, decay and other moisture related deterioration. When relative humidity reaches 100 percent, condensation can occur on surfaces leading to a whole host of additional problems. An elevated relative humidity in carpet and within fabrics can lead to dust mite infestation and mildew (mildew is mold growing on fabrics).
Low relative humidity can lead to discomfort, shrinkage of wood floors and wood furniture, cracking of paint on wood trim and static electricity discharges.

The key is not to be too low and not to be too high. High enough to be comfortable, but low enough to avoid moisture problems associated with mold, corrosion, decay, and condensation.
Unfortunately, determining the correct range depends on where the home is located (climate), how the home is constructed (the thermal resistance of surfaces determines surface temperatures), the time of year (the month or season determines surface temperatures), and the sensitivity of the occupants.

Limits to Relative Humidity-Comfort and Health Aspects

How low can you go? Comfort wise at least, the 2001 ASHRAE Fundamentals (8.12) tells us that at dew point temperatures of less than 32 degrees F, complaints of dry nose, throat, eyes, and skin occur. A dew point of 32 degrees converts to a relative humidity of 25 percent at 68 degrees.
How high can you go? Again, using comfort as the criteria, the 2001 ASHRAE Fundamentals (8.12) tells us that a relative humidity of 60 percent should not be exceeded.
This is consistent with ASHRAE Standard 62-2001 Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality, which recommends that the lower boundary of the relative humidity range be limited to 25 percent and the upper boundary of the relative humidity range be limited to 60 percent.
Now, it is important to consider the ASHRAE definition of comfort: "combinations of indoor space environment and personal factors that will produce thermal environmental conditions acceptable to 80 percent or more of the occupants within a space." Remember that you can't please all of the people all of the time.

The ranges cited above do not consider health, except indirectly. Some people love to live in desert climates, and some people love to live in the tropics. The upper limits from a health perspective are indirectly derived from a desire to control the growth of mold, bacteria, and other disease vectors. Similarly, for the lower limits, although the lower limits tend to be arguably "healthier" from a disease vector perspective. Dry conditions do not favor mold, most bacteria, and other disease vectors.
However, some have argued that dry conditions dry out the mucus linings of the respiratory system and therefore make it more difficult for the body to fight off invaders. The other side of the argument is that there are fewer invaders to worry about.

As can be expected, individual sensitivities and susceptibilities vary greatly, and it is typically very difficult to generalize with respect to relative humidity and health. Having said it is difficult to generalize, we will do so anyway. Keeping relative humidity in the 25 percent to 60 percent range tends to minimize most health issues - although opinions vary greatly.
Incorrect recommendations in the popular press often lead occupants and homeowners to over humidify homes during the winter. The range of 40 percent to 60 percent relative humidity is commonly incorrectly recommended for health and comfort reasons. As we will see, there is a big difference between 25 percent as a lower limit rather than 40 percent - particularly in very cold and cold climates.

To complicate things further, most people are not capable of sensing relative humidity fluctuations within the range of 25 percent to 60 percent. If the relative humidity drops below 25 percent, most people can sense it. Similarly, if the relative humidity rises above 60 percent most people can sense it. In the range of 25 percent to 60 percent the majority of people cannot sense any difference. The range of 25 percent to 60 percent is typically defined as the comfort range for this reason. This is very different than people sensing temperature variations. Most people can sense a difference in temperature within a range of 1 to 2 degrees. Less-below 0.1 degrees-if they are married (just kidding).

Comfort is of course different than health. When relative humidity drops below 25 percent there have been some reports in the medical literature of eye irritation in office workers using computers. Breathing difficulties have been reported in some individuals when relative humidities drop below 15 percent due to the mucus linings of the respiratorysystem
desiccating. However, there is no medical consensus in this regard.

Determining the Humidity Limits-

Many people believe that 25 percent relative humidity as a lower level is still too high. The debate breaks predictably into several camps with the engineers (the aircraft people being the most vocal) arguing for no lower limit for health and only a discussion on comfort. Whereas the lung researchers and some MD's argue that until there is definitive research, why not keep the level high from a prudent avoidance perspective. This of course terrifies the microbiologists and mold researchers since higher lower limits clearly lead to mold growth in buildings and are associated with microbial contamination in typical residential humidifiers.
So on the lower limit there is no real consensus, but only a current compromise recommendation. It is pretty clear that the lower limit will not go up. The only question is how low it will end up. At present, 25 percent relative humidity is the current compromise recommendation within ASHRAE.

On the upper end, there is an emerging consensus. Interior relative humidity should be maintained so that a 70 percent relative humidity at a building surface is avoided in order to control mold growth and should never rise above 60 percent in any event.

Relative Humidity, Surface Humidity, and Condensation

Consensus among microbiologists gives the critical relative humidity for adverse biological activity to occur on building envelope surfaces to be 70 percent. Where a relative humidity above 70 percent occurs at surfaces, mold growth, dust mite growth, decay, corrosion, etc. can occur. Therefore, conditions should be maintained within a building such that the critical 70 (or higher) percent relative humidity at a building envelope surface does not occur. Due to climate differences, interior conditions which must be maintained to avoid the critical relative humidity at a surface vary from region to region and time of year. They also vary based on the thermal resistance of the building envelope.

This means in winter months in cold climates interior relative humidity should be kept as low as possible but within the comfort and health range (i.e. above 25 percent if you believe ASHRAE Standard 62-2001).
In the summer months it means that interior relative humidity should never exceed 60 percent for both comfort and health reasons.
There is a fundamental difference between relative humidity measured in the middle of a conditioned space, and the relative humidity found at surfaces due to the significant difference in temperature typically found between surfaces and the air in the middle of a conditioned space.

For a given sample of air containing water, relative humidity goes up as the temperature goes down. If the air in the middle of a room is 70 degrees at a relative humidity of 40 percent, any surface below 45 degrees will be able to condense water. Any surface below 54 degrees will have air adjacent it at a relative humidity of 70 percent - the mold limit.

Whereas when air in the middle of the room is 70 degrees at a relative humidity of 25 percent, the temperature of a condensing surface drops to 32 degrees from 45 degrees. And a surface with a relative humidity adjacent to it of 70 percent drops to 40 degrees from 54 degrees.

In other words, for condensation to occur with air at 70 degrees and a relative humidity of 25 percent, surfaces need to be colder than 32 degrees. For mold to grow, surfaces need to be colder than 40 degrees. Of course, in a nice and happy coincidence, mold does not like to grow at surfaces below 40 degrees, but will happily grow at 54 degrees. What does this tell us? Well, if surfaces are likely to be cold - say like in the winter - you are better off having a lower relative humidity.

Where relative humidities near surfaces are maintained below 70 percent, mold and other biological growth can be controlled. Since relative humidities are dependant on both temperature and vapor pressure, mold control is dependant on controlling both the temperature and vapor pressure near surfaces.

Surface Humidity and Building Assemblies: Applications in Heating Climates

In heating climates, mold growth on interior surfaces occurs during the heating season because the interior surfaces of exterior walls are cool from heat loss and because moisture levels within the conditioned space are too high. Mold growth control is facilitated by preventing the interior surfaces of exterior wall and other building assemblies from becoming too cold and by limiting interior moisture levels. The key is to prevent relative humidities adjacent surfaces from rising above 70 percent. The thermal resistance of the building envelope and the local climate determine the interior surface temperatures of exterior walls and other building assemblies. Controlled ventilation and source control limit the interior moisture levels.

Experience has shown, that where interior moisture levels in very cold climates during the heating season are limited to the 25 percent relative humidity at 70 degrees, relative humidities adjacent to the interior surfaces of exterior walls (of typical code minimum thermal resistance) fall below 70 percent and mold growth is controlled. The colder the climate (for the thermal resistance of any given building envelope) the lower the interior relative humidity necessary to prevent 70 percent relative humidities occurring adjacent interior surfaces of exterior walls. Building enclosures of similar thermal resistance interior moisture levels during the heating season. A 25 percent interior relative humidity at 70 degrees would be appropriate for Minneapolis. Whereas interior relative humidities up to 35 percent at 70 degrees would be appropriate for Cincinnati - which is located in a cold climate rather than a very cold
climate . Correspondingly, the higher the desired interior relative humidity, the higher the
thermal resistance necessary to control relative humidities adjacent to interior surfaces.

In a mixed climate, during the heating season, interior moisture levels should be limited to 45 percent relative humidity at 70 degrees. This limits the relative humidity adjacent to the interior surface of exterior walls to below 70 percent for the typical thermal resistance found in most building assemblies in this climate zones.
In cooling climates, interior mold growth also occurs because interior surfaces are typically cold and then exposed to moisture levels that are too high. The cold surfaces in cooling climates arise from the air conditioning of enclosures. When exterior hot air is cooled, its relative humidity increases. If the exterior hot air is also humid, cooling this air will typically raise its relative humidity above the point at which mold growth can occur (70 percent).
Where air conditioned "cold" air is supplied to a room, and this air can be "blown" against an interior surface due to poor diffuser design, diffuser location, or diffuser performance, creating cold spots on the interior gypsum board surfaces. Although this cold air is typically dehumidified before it is supplied to the conditioned space, it can create a mold problem on room surfaces as a result of high levels of airborne moisture within the room contacting the cooled surface. This typically leads to a rise in relative humidity near the surface and a corresponding mold problem.

If exterior humid air comes in contact with the interstitial cavity side of cooled interior gypsum board mold and other biological growth can occur. Cooling this exterior hot, humid air by air conditioning or contact with cool surfaces will raise its relative humidity above 70 percent. When nutrients are present mold and other growth occurs. This is exacerbated with the use of impermeable wall coverings such as vinyl wallpaper that can trap moisture between the interior finish and the gypsum board. When these interior finishes are coupled with cold spots (from poor diffuser placement and/or overcooling) and exterior moisture, mold and other growth can occur.

Accordingly, one of the most practical solutions in controlling mold and other biological growth in cooling climates is the prevention of hot, humid exterior air, or other forms of moisture transport, from contacting the interior cold (air conditioned) gypsum board surfaces (controlling the vapor pressure at the surface). This is most commonly facilitated by maintaining the conditioned space at a positive air pressure to the exterior and the installation of an exterior vapor diffusion retarder. Pressurization of building assemblies
is expedited by airtight construction.

Interior moisture levels within the conditioned space should also be limited to 60 percent relative humidity at 75 degrees by dehumidification and source control to prevent mold growth on the interior surfaces within the conditioned space.
Many people are concerned about wood floors and wood furniture being damaged if humidifiers are not installed. More often than not, people tend to over humidify their homes in an attempt to protect their wood floors and wood furniture. They need not do so if relative humidities are maintained in the range of 25 to 60 percent between winter and summer.

Let us examine the effect of varying humidity inside of a home between a low of 25 percent and a high of 60 percent on wood. Wood moisture content changes directly with exposure to varying relative humidity.
The relationship is extremely well understood by generations of wood workers and furniture makers .The moisture content of wood will vary from 5 percent moisture content by
weight at 25 percent relative humidity to 11 percent moisture content by weight at 60 percent relative humidity. This results in a maximum change in dimension of approximately 2 percent tangential to the grain. If the wood in question is oak, and the board is 4 inches wide, the
maximum movement is 0.08 inches.

If we have a wood floor installed with 4 inch wide wood boards initially conditioned to the mid range of expected moisture content, i.e. 8 percent moisture content by weight, the range in movement is plus and minus 0.04 inches or approximately the thickness of a credit card. This is not an aesthetically displeasing or unacceptable range of movement. Of course if the wood is not initially conditioned to the mid range of the expected moisture content, then the movement can be two credit card thicknesses.

The amount of bound water in wood is determined by the relative humidity (RH) of the
surrounding atmosphere; the amount of bound water changes (albeit slowly) as the
relative humidity changes. The moisture content of wood, when a balance is established
at a given relative humidity, is its equilibrium moisture content (EMC). The solid line
represents the curve for white spruce, a typical species with fiber saturation point (FSP)
around 30% EMC. For species with a high extractive content, such as mahogany, FSP is
around 24%, and for those with low extractive content, such as birch, FSP may be as high
as 35%. Although a precise curve cannot be drawn for each species, most will fall within
the color band. As a Certified IAQ Inspector I will inspect the check relative humidity levels.Serving atlanta metro and south atlanta counties.Member international code council,and member in good standing with the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors.90 buyers warranty FREE!

Air conditioning systems that don't control inside humidity leave the space feeling cool and damp.Water vapor from the ouside infiltates the interior when the refrigeration compressor isn't on.Moisture enters with ventilattion air and leakage around the building's perimeter.If the air condition does run almost constanly,interior relative humidity rises.Cooling system that are to small for their application can also benefit from the use of a dehumidifier.Dehumidifiers cannot,however,compensate for a poorly constructed building.A badly or incorrectly installed vapor barrier can admit much more water than must dehumidification system can remove.These areas are very important areas needing inspected by a certified home inspector.

Air quality in buildings with little outdoor air supply quickly deteriorates when the interior space is occupied.Carbon dioxide gas exhaled by people accumulates,leading to discomfort and drowsiness.Poor ventilation does not expel the carbon dioxide or dilute it,and its concentration rises throughout the day.Some quality recovery usally takes places at night while the space is vacant.Other ventilation problems related problems include the accumaltion of gases and dust generated from sources within the home.Many building materials give off chemicals,especially when new.Formaldehyde is commonly "exaled by carpeting,upholstered furniture,and many wood fiber products.This gas is very irritating to the eyes,nose,and throat..People allerigic to it can be sticken with severe reactions that might require hospitalation.

Dust and dirt can spread to with poorly designed or serviced air handling equipment.Improper filtration allows irritating from one part of the homes interior other parts of the home..