Atlanta Inspection News! Consumer information

This is the second in a series of Tech Tips on lead-based paint. This Tech Tip describes the methods used to determine if lead exists in a paint.

Lead-based paint is defined as any paint, varnish, stain, or other applied coating that has at least 1 milligram of lead per square centimeter (mg/cm2) or 0.5% by dry weight (5,000 micrograms per gram dry weight, or 5,000 parts per million).

Testing Methods

There are three methods of determining if paint has lead in it:

• Having a certified laboratory analyze a paint chip sample
• Hiring a certified contractor to use an x-ray fluorescence (XRF) instrument to measure the amount of lead on a painted surface
• Using a chemical test kit or using the swab method.

An Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) report, A Field Test of Lead-Based Paint Testing Technologies: Summary Report (EPA 747-R-95-002a), recommends only the laboratory analysis and XRF methods. The report concluded that chemical test kits cannot determine the extent of lead-based paint on a surface and users cannot be confident that test kits will discriminate accurately between lead-based paint and other paint.

Paint Chip Lab Analysis.

The paint chip lab analysis method is simple. Paint samples are taken from a painted surface. The samples are sent to a lab. The lab tests paint samples for lead by atomic absorption spectrophotometry (AAS) or inductively coupled plasma (ICP). The tests show how much lead is in the paint. The lab reports the results.

The Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) recommends that paint chip samples be taken from a 4-square-inch area of paint. The testing laboratory may have different requirements. The 4-square-inch sample guarantees that enough paint will be collected for labora-tory analysis. The 4-square-inch area may be of any shape (a 2- by 2-inch square or a 1- by 4-inch rectangle, for example). Areas from which paint chip samples are collected should be repaired to prevent exposure in the event the paint contains lead. Also, take representative samples of the paint from several areas. Record the location of each sample.

All layers of paint must be removed, since the lower layers are more likely to contain lead. Include as little as possible of the underlying material (wood, plaster, metal, or brick) in the sample. The test results are reported in percent of lead by sample weight. Adding substrate material in the sample would give erroneous results.

All laboratories analyzing lead paint must participate in the EPA's National Lead Laboratory Accreditation Program and be accredited by an organization recognized by the EPA. For more information, contact the National Lead Information Center Clearinghouse (1-800-424-LEAD) and ask for the most current list of EPA-recognized laboratories. Costs range from $12 to $25 per paint chip sample. The labs will give you complete instructions on taking paint samples and will give you shipping containers. Local and regional environmental labs may be available for lead testing. Mailing samples out-of-state is also a reasonable approach and may yield lower lab costs and faster results.

Advantages--Paint chip analysis is considered the most accurate method for measuring lead in paint as long as paint chip samples include all layers of paint and do not include substrate material. It is also the cheapest method if you are testing only a few paints.

Disadvantages--It can take for several days to several weeks to get the results, depending on the lab. The surface must be disturbed and repaired.

Results--Paint chip analysis measures the amount of lead in the paint by weight. The weight of lead in the sample is compared to the weight of the entire sample, and is reported as a percentage. If the sample has 0.5% lead or higher (5,000 parts per million), HUD considers this to be a lead paint. Lead levels may also be reported as mg/cm2 as long as the surface area of the paint removed was measured.

X-Ray Fluorescence.

Figure 1--X-ray flourescence instruments use radiation to measure the amount of lead on a painted surface.

X-ray fluorescence (XRF) instruments measure the amount of lead on a painted surface by exposing the surface to high-energy radiation (gamma rays in this case). The radiation causes lead to emit x-rays at a characteristic frequency. The intensity of the rays is measured by the instrument's detector and converted to a number that represents the amount of lead per unit area (usually in milligrams per square centimeter). Operators of XRF machines require special training to prevent radiation exposure.

These instruments (Figure 1) are very expensive, ranging in price from $10,000 to $15,000. Operators must be trained and certified. In most cases, a certified contractor can be hired for a few hundred dollars an hour. Although the cost may appear high, a contractor using these instruments can inspect many surfaces in a short period of time. Call the National Lead Information Center Clearinghouse (1-800-424-LEAD) to locate certified XRF operators in your area.

Advantages--The XRF instrument can tell immediately if the paint has lead in it and how much lead is present. Testing does not damage the painted surface. It is the best method when many surfaces or buildings are being tested.

Disadvantages--XRF measurements have a larger margin of error than laboratory analysis of paint chips. XRF instruments should not be used to test highly curved or intricate surfaces because of safety concerns, poor reliability of the results, and the inability to determine the exact surface area. Laboratory analysis of paint chip samples is recommended when irregular surfaces are being examined or when an inconclusive measurement is taken. An inconclusive measurement is a reading within the tolerance zone of the XRF machine around the established lead limit of 1.0 milligram of lead per square centimeter of a painted surface. For example, if an XRF instrument had a tolerance zone of +/- 0.2 mg/cm2, the inconclusive range would be between 0.8 mg/cm2 and 1.2 mg/cm2. A reading of 0.9 mg/cm2 would require that a paint chip sample be analyzed to verify the results.

Results--XRF readings tell how much lead is in the tested surface area. Results are reported in milligrams per square centimeter. If the reading is greater than 1 milligram per square centimeter (1.0 mg/cm2), then the surface is considered a lead surface. Usually more than one XRF reading is taken for a surface. The average of those readings is the result.

Chemical Test Kits.

Figure 2--Swab testing kits can detect lead.

Chemical test kits detect lead by a chemical reaction that causes a color change if lead is present in concentrations of at least 0.5% lead by weight. Chemical test kits are inexpensive and easy to use. They are available from local hardware stores or distributors. Several types of test kits are available. One type uses a sodium sulfide or sodium rhodizonate solution that is applied to a notched surface or a paint chip. Lead is indicated if the solution turns the appropriate color. Another type uses a swab (Figure 2) that is rubbed onto a painted surface. Lead is present if the swab turns the appropriate color.

Chemical test kits are not recommended by the EPA because of the possibility of false readings and because the tests do not tell how much lead is present in the paint. Sometimes the color change is difficult to interpret--especially if dark colors are being tested.

Advantages--The chemical spot testing method is quick, easy, and inexpensive. Test kits can be purchased directly from the manufacturer, distributor, or hardware store. Testing can be done at your convenience and you get the results right away.

Disadvantages--The chemical test does not tell you how much lead is present. Sometimes the test indicates lead is present when it is not (a false positive) and other times indicates lead is not present when it is (a false negative). The chemical tests only test the exposed layers, not the underlying layers that may be more likely to contain lead.

Results--Lead is present if the chemical test turns a specific color, usually red or brown.

Atlanta Inspection can perform lead testing by an accredited EPA Lab. Don't be fool by fasle positive self testing. Affordable rates. Insurance testing, Hud, Section 8, before remodeling a home built in 1978 or older.

INFORMATION By AJCHOMEFINDER.COM

When condominium sales across metro Atlanta hit the wall in 2009, Ryan Plantz had a front row seat. He had been condo shopping the year before but didn't see what he wanted in his price range, so he watched and waited for the market to tank. It didn't take long. In November he closed on a new one-bedroom condo in Midtown's 30308 ZIP code for 20 percent less than what he would have paid just a year earlier.

"I couldn't be happier with what I got," Plantz said. "I feel like I got a great deal."

At least someone was happy. Plantz was able to do so because all across the 30308 ZIP code, a district that includes Emory Crawford Long Hospital, home prices plunged in 2009.

Across a 20-county metro area, every region saw residential sales price decline, according to The Atlanta Journal-Constitution's annual Home Sales Report. All but two counties saw a drop in the number of homes sold, when compared to 2008, the report found. Perhaps not on a scale with the deflated markets in California, what happened in Atlanta was nevertheless unprecedented.

The report was compiled with data by Marietta-based real estate research firm SmartNumbers. It looked at home sales and prices among hundreds of metro Atlanta ZIP codes but focused on 166 ZIP codes that saw a minimum of 75 homes sold during the year.

In the core counties of Clayton, Cobb, DeKalb, Fulton and Gwinnett, the median price of single-family home - half sold for more, half sold for less - tumbled 21 percent. In addition to and perhaps because of falling prices, the number of homes sold fell 6 percent.

"If people didn't have to sell in 2009, most likely they didn't," said Travis Williams, an agent with Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Metro Brokers.

The median price of all homes sold in Plantz's new 30308 ZIP code was $197,500, down 12 percent from 2008. There were also 10 percent fewer homes sold in the area, the data revealed.

For all of 30308's troubles, it had plenty of company. Of the 166 ZIP codes examined, one-third saw better numbers for homes sold, but also saw the median price of homes sold decline.

There is no one handy reason to explain why prices fell so dramatically, but distress sales and a small pool of buyers didn't help, said Timmothy B. McCann, an assistant broker for Crye-Leike Realtors in the Smyrna/Vinings area.

"While people were waiting for prices to hit the bottom, there wasn't a lot of buying going on," he said. "That destroyed what pricing there was. When you add distress sales to that mix, you are creating the perfect storm."

That storm struck Clayton County's 30273 ZIP code, east of Clayton State University. The area experienced a 37 percent increase in the number of homes sold in 2009, but the median price fell by 47 percent over the same period, from $75,000 to $40,000.

Much the same occurred in DeKalb County's 30032, just south and west of East Lake Country Club, where the number of homes sold rose, but the median price fell 44 percent, from $54,000 to $30,000.

"A lot of people who had to sell in 2009 were the victims of bad timing," said Williams. "Those who tried to sell in 2008 for one price realized they couldn't sell for those same prices in 2009 and nobody was ready for that reality."

Williams said one of his clients in 30032 ended up selling a property for half of the original asking price, after it had been on the market for well over a year. The sale price was $60,000, he said.

Competition with neighboring homes on the market and the overall economy drove the price down, Williams said.

"This is the difference between a buyers market and a sellers market," he said." In 2009 sellers were at the buyer's mercy. You didn't know when the next buyer would come along, so you had to seriously consider the offer in front of you."

The trend was not exclusive to neighborhoods with low median prices. ZIP code 30075 covers areas of Fulton, Cobb and Cherokee counties but the quadrant in far northeast Cobb saw substantial slippage. Sales, which included 120 existing homes, improved by 23 percent but prices dropped 14 percent from $320,000 to $275,000.

While sellers seem to have been dealt a bad hand, buyers saw things very differently.

"I'm able to help many first-time buyers get amazing deals right now," Williams said. "And it is all because sellers are having such a bad time."

After the condo crash when Plantz decided to buy, he felt he had the best deal he could get for his money. "It was the best time for me to buy," he said. "And I plan to be here for a while, so I'm hoping prices have nowhere to go but up."

He has plenty of company. 5 worst ZIP codes

Largest median price decline.

Clayton30349▼62.81%

Fulton30337▼61.99%

Henry30294▼59.31%

DeKalb30083▼51.03%

Clayton30236▼47.82%

Largest decrease in home sales

Forsyth30004▼46.32%

Barrow30620▼38.99%

DeKalb30319▼36.22%Forsyth30024▼33.65%

DeKalb30306▼33.86%

AJC Home Sales Report

Our annual look into metro Atlanta real estate includes neighborhood-by-neighborhood breakdowns of the number of houses sold, their median price and how that changed from 2008 to 2009. Find real estate data on even more areas online at bit.ly/AJChomesales.

The ICC which governs muncicpality codes where trying to push a nation wide code for fire sprinklers in two story residential dwellings. This was shot down. Many states adopted these codes.

In a growing trend that many say will save even more lives than smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors, fire sprinklers are now available for residences.

Residential fires destroy an alarming number of lives and property. In 2007 in the U.S., there were 414,000 residential fires that caused:

• 2,895 fire deaths;
• 14,000 injuries; and
• $7.5 billion in property damage.

Residential sprinklers, listed by the Underwriters Laboratories (UL), are now available to homeowners.

The development of chloro-polyvinyl chloride and other listed non-metallic pipe has simplified installation, making sprinkler systems more cost-effective. Because of their improved sensitivity, they are designed to respond to fires much faster than standard commercial and industrial sprinkler systems.

 Here are a few facts you might not know about fire sprinklers:

• On average, they use significantly less water to extinguish a fire than would be required by the fire department. Sprinklers use just 10 to 26 gallons per minute (gpm), while fire crews use 125 gpm, per hose.
• Insurance premiums are often lower for homes that are equipped with fire sprinklers, which help pay for the systems.
• In buildings equipped with sprinklers, 90% of fires are contained by the operation of a single sprinkler head.
• Newer fire sprinkler heads are designed to activate independently of one another, leaving unneeded heads in reserve, and sparing water-sensitive items.
• Fire sprinklers are triggered only by temperatures that surpass a certain heat threshold, making it practically impossible to trigger them accidentally.

A recent study conducted by the UL found that house fires are getting worse; the time needed to escape some types of fires has been reduced from approximately 17 minutes to as little as three minutes, in some situations.  According to the study, this change is largely due to the disuse of natural fabrics for furnishings, such as wool, cotton and rayon, in favor of more flammable synthetics, such as polyester and plastic.

DECKS: life expectancy of a deck is 10 to 15 years. Since deck building started about 30 years ago, there are many existing decks that are past their useful life. Deck maintenance is often overlooked as well. Decks are exposed to the elements, which can cause damage. It's important that decks are properly inspected and maintained on a routine basis Connectors and fasteners for deck construction that may meet the requirements of the 2006 International Building Code® and the 2006 International Residential Code.

Section 1604.8.3
Deck Code Requirements
Where supported by attachment to an exterior wall, decks shall be positively anchored to the primary structure and designed for both vertical and lateral loads as applicable. Such attachment shall not be accomplished by the useof toenails or nails subject to withdrawal. -

IRC 2006 Section R502.2.2 / IBC 2006. Correct ledger attachment is crucial when building a deck that is attached to another structure. One of the most common causes for deck failure are ledgers that pull away from the primary structure, resulting in complete collapse.The two most common ways to correctly attach a ledger to a structure are lag screws or through-bolts through the ledger and into the rim joist of the supporting structure. The installation of through-bolts requires access to the back side of the rim joist which, in some cases, is not possible without significant removal of drywall within the structure Ledger may not be installed over siding or stucco. It must be fastened directly to the rim joist or stud or through sheathing into an appropriate framing member.

1. Screws must be installed into a stud or rim board with sufficient thickness.

 
2. Screws can be installed over sheathing provided it is structural sheathing (OSB orplywood). 

3. Rim board must be at least 1½" thick or a reduction to the catalog loads is required.

4. When installed into a stud a minimum edge distance of 3/8" must be maintained. 

5. Minimum of 3" long screws must be used (plus the thickness of any structural sheathing that remains in place).

6. Ledger may not be installed over siding or stucco, it must be fastened directly to the rim joist, stud, or sheathing.

FOOTINGS ? The building codes include specific requirements regarding footing size that are dependent upon factors such as the dead and live loads the deck is designed to resist as well as soil conditions. Footing should be designed per IRC 2006, Section R403 or IBC2006, Section 1805 Minimum Footing Depths By Code ? Footings shall be at least 12" below the undisturbed ground surface. IRC 2006, Section R403.1.4 / IBC 2006, Section 1805.2

Footings shall be designed so that the allowable bearing capacity of the soil is not exceeded. The minimum width of footings shall be 12 inches. IRC 2006, Section R403.1.1 / IBC 2006, Section 1805.4.1

In order for posts to properly resist various types of loads they must rest on, and be anchored to, concrete footings. Patios and pre-cast concrete piers do not qualify as proper footings for deck construction.
Note: In order to achieve published load values, footings must provide sufficient concrete cover of the embedded - place post and column bases. In some cases a footing larger than theminimum required by the building codes will be necessary to meet theseLoad Resistance ?

Columns shall be restrained to prevent lateral displacement at the bottom end. Wood columns shall not be less in nominal size than 4" x 4" -

IRC 2006,
Section R407.3 ?
Column and post-end connections shall be fastened to resist lateral and net induced uplift forces - IBC 2006, Section 2304.9.7

Backdrafting is the reverse flow of gas in the flues of fuel-fired appliances that results in the intrusion of combustion byproducts into the living space. Many fuel-fired water heaters and boilers use household air and lack an induced draft, which makes them especially vulnerable to backdrafting when indoor air pressure becomes unusually low. Inspectors should try to spot evidence of backdrafting in homes.

How does backdrafting happen?
 
Fuel-fired water heaters, boilers, wall heaters, and furnaces are designed to exhaust the by products of combustion to the outdoors through a flue. These hot gases rise through the flue and exit the home because they are not as dense as indoor air. The pressure differential that allows for the release of
combustion gases can be overcome by unusually low indoor air pressure caused by a high rate of expulsion of air into the outdoors through exhaust fans, fireplaces and dryers. When this happens, combustion gases can be sucked back into the house and may potentially harm or kill building occupants.Improperly configured flues or flue blockages can also cause backdrafting.

How can inspectors test for backdrafting?
An inspector can release smoke or powder into the draft diverter to see whether it gets sucked into the duct or if it spills back into the room. A smoke pencil or a chemical puffer can be used to safely simulate smoke.  

An inspector can hold a lighter beside the draft diverter to see whether there is sufficient draft to pull the flame in the direction of the flue. Combustion gases that back-draft into a house may leave a dark residue on the top of the water heater. The presence of soot is an indication of backdrafting,although its absence does not guarantee that backdrafting has not happened.

A carbon monoxide analyzer can be used to test for backdrafting of that gas. Inspectors should be properly trained to use these before they attempt to use one during an actual inspection, primarily to avoid false negatives.While performing the above-noted tests, it is helpful if inspectors ask their clients to
turn on all devices that vent air into the outdoors in order to simulate worst-case conditions. Such devices may be dryers, or bathroom and kitchen fans.

Atlanta Inspection Service. http://www.findmeaninspector.com

404 680-4578

People have been attempting to control heat and ventilation since prehistoric times.  Over the many centuries, the technology of heating has advanced from simple attempts to keep the body warm to very sophisticated systems.  Ventilation has been used for a very long time as well, dating back to the time when royalty was cooled by servants and slaves fanning them using large palm fronds and feathers. Ventilation became important during the Industrial Revolution to protect workers and increase efficiency. Air conditioning is a relatively recent development, and involves many aspects including the control of temperature, humidity and air cleanliness.  It wasn't until after 1945 that the use of air conditioning or
simple cooling of the air became widespread.  Modern systems of air conditioning have greatly evolved
from the times of simply hanging wet towels across an open window.

Today, air-conditioning systems do not simply cool the air, but they actually condition it by controlling the air's temperature, moisture content, movement and cleanliness.

Heat Fundamentals
There are essentially three ways that heat moves from one area to another.  When bodies of unequal temperatures are near each other, heat leaves one body and goes to the other.  Heat moves from the hotter body, and the colder body absorbs it. The greater the difference in temperature, the greater the rate of flow of the heat.  Heat moves from one body to another by the following ways: radiation; conduction; and convection.

Radiation is the transfer of heat energy by electromagnetic wave motion.  Heat is transferred in direct rays.  It travels in a straight line from the source to the body.  The closer you are to the hot object, the warmer you feel.  The intensity of the heat radiated from the object decreases as the distance from the object increases. 

You feel cool in a room that has a cold floor, walls and ceiling.  The amount of heat loss from your body in that room depends on the relative temperature of the objects in that room.  The colder the floor is (relative to the temperature of your feet), the greater the heat loss from your body will be just standing there.  If the floor, walls and ceiling of that room are relatively warmer than your body temperature, then heat will be radiated to your body from those objects and surfaces. 

Radiant heating in residential buildings includes piping and electrical wiring in floors, walls and ceilings.  Radiant heat emits in all directions.  Reflective materials are commonly used in a radiant heat-emitting system in order to direct and control where the heat is emitted.

Conduction is the transfer of heat from one molecule to another, or through one substance to another.  It is heat that moves from one body to another by direct contact.  For example, heat is transferred by conduction from a boiler heat exchanger to the water passing through it.  When you touch a suction line of an air conditioner and it feels warm, that's heat energy moving from the warm copper pipe to your cooler hand -- by conduction. 

Convection is known by most people from the phrase "heat rises."  Convection is the transfer of heat by warming the air next to a hot surface, and then moving that warm air.  It's the transfer of heat by the motion of the heated matter itself.  The air moves from one place to another, carrying heat along
with it. Since warm air is lighter than the cool air around it, the warm air (or heat) rises.

Warm fluids tend to rise while the surrounding cool fluids fall.  This rising and falling tends to form loops -- convective loops -- where warm air rises and cool air falls.  Early warm-air gravity furnaces used the principles of convective loops.  In a gravity system, the warm air rises and cool air falls, and this is how the gravity warm-air heating system circulated air. 

Forced-air furnaces function primarily by convection.  Heat is transferred to the air, and the air is circulated throughout the house. Systems that heat water and use radiators and baseboards as their heat-emitting devices use convection, and radiation, to a lesser extent. 

A radiator needs air freely moving around it in order for it to be effective.  Covers over radiators might reduce the airflow around and through the radiator unit. 

There are four heat-conveying mediums that can carry heat:

* air
* water
* steam
* electricity

Four Types of Heating Systems;

* warm-air heating system;
* hydronic heating system;
* steam heating system; and
* electric heating system.

Heating Fuels that are being used today by most heating systems
fuel oil (No. 2) { Up north}
natural gas;
propane;
coal{up north}
electricity

Natural Gas Teflon tape is not recommended.Pipe dope is preferred.  Most jurisdictions do not allow the use of gas piping as a way to ground the electrical service. We do not want to rely on the gas piping as the primary means of grounding the electrical service.  Bonding the gas pipes to the electrical grounding system is a requirement in most jurisdictions. This bonding is usually done by connecting the gas piping to the water supply piping that is near the water heater. This is assuming that the water pipes are grounded. 

 Natural gas has no color, no odor, and it's not toxic.  It is highly combustible. It only smells because we put a scent in it. Natural gas has a specific gravity of about 0.6. Air has a specific gravity of 1. Natural gas is lighter than air. Propane has a specific gravity of 1.5, and a propane leak tends to pool on the floor surface and creates a dangerous situation. 

To ignite natural gas, you need a mixture of gas and air that is conducive to ignition. If you have too little air in the mix, the gas will not ignite.If you have too much air, the gas will not ignite. You have to have between about 86% air to 94% of air mixed with a certain gas volume to get the gas to ignite.  Once ignited, the ignition temperature of natural gas is about 1,200° F.  That's hot.

In a conventional gas furnace with a natural draft, air is mixed with the gas initially for combustion. This air is called the primary air.Primary air is controlled by the air shutters at the front of the burner assembly. 

The remainder of the air mixture comes from the air that actually surrounds the flames inside the combustion chamber.This air is called the secondary air.  The secondary air (the air around the flames) and the primary air (the air drawn into the burners) combine to make up the total combustion air. 

 Combustion Fundamentals

Combustion involves the burning of a fuel that produces heat energy.Combustion requires adequate supply of air called combustion air. To have a successful combustion process, there has to be a fuel, oxygen, and an ignition source.

Burning a natural gas can be explained by the general equation:CH4 + 2O2 = CO2 + 2H2O + heat. 

Natural gas is about 85 to 90% methane (CH4). Burning natural gas (CH4) with oxygen yields carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor (2H2O) and heat. This is referred to as complete combustion.

In reality, air is the source of oxygen (O2), and in the air, oxygen is mixed with some nitrogen.The resultant flue gas from the combustion will contain some nitrogen. 

Combustion Air
Combustion is never complete (or perfect).In combustion exhaust gases, both unburned carbon (as soot) and carbon compounds (CO and others) will be present.Also, because air is the oxidant, some nitrogen will be oxidized into various nitrogen oxides (NOX).

Roughly 15 cubic feet of air is needed to burn 1 cubic foot of natural gas.Gas furnaces need also draft air (or dilution air) to maintain a draft of the combustion gases.Another 15 cubic feet of air is needed for every cubic foot of natural gas.This air helps with a chimney draft.Therefore, a conventional low-efficiency, standing-pilot gas furnace requires about 30 cubic feet of air (15 dilution plus 15 combustion) for every cubic foot of gas burned. If combustion air is inadequately supplied to a gas furnace, carbon monoxide will likely be produced. Carbon monoxide can be lethal.

Draft Types There are three types of burners relative to the draft.They are:

A) Natural-draft burners
Natural draft refers to the burners of a conventional low-efficiency gas furnace.This type of burner is also called an atmospheric burner. 
With natural draft, we need to keep the chimney hot enough to get those combustion gases out of the chimney.Natural draft burners have no draft fan.

B) forced-draft burners
A forced draft is when the furnace has a fan that blows air into the combustion chamber through the heat exchanger and out through the venting system. 
All oil burners and some gas furnaces use forced draft.Forced draft has the fan before the burner.

C) Induced-draft burners
An induced draft uses a blower fan to pull air into the burner through the combustion chamber and exchanger.The fan is located on the exhaust-side of the exchanger.  It also blows the flue gases out through the vent connector pipe.  When the induced fan is operating, there is a negative pressure inside the heat exchanger.  Induced-draft fans are also called exhaust blowers or power vents.Induced draft has a fan after the exchanger and before the vent pipe. Induced draft fans are common on mid-efficiency and high-efficiency furnaces.

Backdraft

The lack of dilution air (the air used for draft) may cause a condition of backdraft at the furnace.Backdraft occurs when the combustion gases are not drafting or rising up through the chimney but instead are coming backward into the living area of the building.This is a hazardous situation since carbon monoxide could be entering the dwelling under this condition. 

Backdraft could be caused by various conditions,including:inadequate dilution air; flue restriction or blockage; chimney downdraft; exhaust fans causing draft and pressure problems with in the building; and improper chimney or flue connector size.
 

Confined Space and Combustion Air

If the volume of space in which the appliance is located is less than 50 cubic feet of space per 1,000 BTUs per hour of aggregate input of the appliance, then it is a confined space:  50 cubic feet = 2.5 ft. x 2.5 ft. x 8 ft.

In unconfined spaces in buildings, infiltration may be adequate to provide air for combustion, ventilation and dilution of flue gases.However, in buildings of tight construction (for example, doors and windows that have weatherstripping, walls that are heavily insulated, openings that are caulked, floors and walls with vapor barriers, etc.), additional air may need to be provided.

Solution

Two permanent openings to adjacent spaces could be provided so that the combined volume of all spaces meets the requirements.  If the building is sealed so tightly that infiltration air is not adequate for  combustion,  combustion air should then be obtained from outdoors.

All Air from Inside the Dwelling

If all combustion air is taken from the inside of the dwelling, then two permanent openings should be installed.  One opening should be within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top and one within 12 inches (305 mm) of the bottom of the space.  Each opening shall have a free area equal to a minimum of 1 square inchper 1,000 BTU/h (2,201 mm2/kW) input rating of all appliances installed within the space, but not less than 100 square inches.

All Air from Outdoors

If all combustion air is taken from the outdoor air, then one opening should be within 12 inches of the top and one within 12 inches of the bottom of the space.The openings are permitted to connect to spaces directly communicating with the outdoor air, such as a ventilated crawlspace or ventilated attic space.Each opening should have a free area of at least 1 square inch per 4,000 BTU/per hour (550 mm2/kW) of total input rating of all appliances in the space when using vertical ducts (2,000 BTU/per hour if using horizontal ducts).

Louvers

In calculating the free area of combustion air openings fitted with louvers, metal louvers obstruct about 25% of the opening.  Wooden louvers obstruct 75%.

 Electrical Service Panels

Electrical panels are boxes that house circuit breakers, which are are safety devices that stop the electrical current if it exceeds the safe level for some portion of the home electrical system.

  Safety 

Many people, even experienced electricians, have been killed or seriously injured while opening electrical panels. In 1991, an Atlanta electrician was killed while attempting to inspect a panel that had a faulty spring-loaded bus-bar assembly. Apparently, the bus-bar was moved while the electrician was opening the panel, causing an arc and a lethal electrical explosion. Generally, two factors contribute to these situations:  defective components and complacency. In 2003-2006, U.S. fire departments responded to an estimated average of 6,650 structure fires in educational properties, annually. These fires caused an annual average of 88 civilian fire injuries and $90 million in direct property damage. There were no civilian fire deaths due to structure fires reported in these properties during this time period. Educational properties include day-care centers, public, private or parochial boarding schools, trade or business schools, and colleges or universities, excluding dormitories, fraternity or sororities houses. Fires in educational properties accounted for 1.2% of all reported structure fires in 2003-2006. These estimates are based on data from the U.S. Fire Administration's (USFA) National Fire Incident Reporting System (NFIRS) and the National Fire Protection Association's (NFPA) annual fire department experience survey. 

Inspectors must be aware that all forms of electrical inspections, especially electrical panel inspections, are inherently dangerous. Practice calm, steady movements and learn to avoid distractions. A sudden flash, shout or movement could cause an inspector to lunge and touch an electrically live and dangerous component. Advise your client that they should never remove an electrical panel cover themselves, as they should leave this duty to InterNACHI inspectors or qualified electricians. Before touching the electrical panel, inspectors should ask themselves the following questions:

• Do I have an escape path? Make sure that you know where you can safely turn or step if you must safely escape a dangerous surprise, such as bees or sparks. An unfortunately placed shovel or extension cord, for instance, can turn a quick jerk into a dangerous fall.
• Are the floors wet? Never touch any electrical equipment while standing on a wet surface!
• Does the panel appear to be wet? Check overhead for dripping water that has condensed on a cold water pipe. Moisture can arrive in more ways than you can imagine.
• Is the panel rusty? Rust is an indication of previous wet conditions that may still exist.

As an optional safety measure, use a voltage ticker to make sure the box is safe to touch. If the alarm sounds on the device, have the box examined by a qualified electrician. Also, safety glasses and other personal protective equipment may be used to protect against burns and electric shock.

While removing the panel cover, inspectors should:

• Stand a little back while removing the cover, which makes it easier to remain in a blocking position.
• Stand so as to block your client  from touching the panel and its components.
• inform the client that opening the panel is a dangerous step, and that if sparks fly, the client should not touch the inspector.

Service Panel Inspection:

Inspectors can check for the following defective conditions during an electrical panel inspection:

• insufficient clearance. According to the 2008 National Electrical Code, most residential electrical panels require at least a 3-foot clearance or working space in front, 30 inches of width, and a minimum headroom clearance of 6 feet, or the height of the equipment, whichever is greater. If obstacles would make it unsafe for you to inspect the service panel, you have the right to disclaim it.
• aluminum branch wiring.
• sharp-tipped panel box screws or wires damaged by these screws. Panel box cover screws must have blunt ends so they do not pierce the wires inside the box. Look for wires that pass too closely to the screw openings inside the electrical panel. 
• circuit breakers that are not properly sized.
• oxidation or corrosion to any of the parts. Oxidized or corroded wires will increase the resistance of conductors and create the potential for arcing. 
• damage caused by rodents. Rodents have been known to chew through wire insulation in electrical panels (and other areas), creating an unsafe condition. Rodents have been electrocuted this way, leaving an unsightly mess inside the panel.
• evidence of electrical failures, such as burned or overheated components.
• evidence of water entry inside the electrical panel. Moisture can corrode circuit breakers so that they won't trip, make connections less reliable, and make the equipment unsafe to touch.
• evidence of missing or improper bonding.  This may indicate improper wiring, damaged equipment or unsafe conditions.
• the physical contact points of the overcurrent protection device to the contact point of the buss are not making good contact. The sounds of arcing (a cracking or popping sound) may indicate this condition.
• panel manufactured by Zinsco or Federal Pacific Electric (FPE). These panels have a reputation for being problematic and further evaluation by a qualified electrician is recommended. Zinsco panels can generally be identified by a blue and silver "Zinsco" label inside the panel, and an embossed "Magnetrip" label at the top of the panel face. FPE panels should include, if they were not removed, one of the following identifying labels:

•  
  • Federal Electric
  • Federal Pacific Electric
  • Federal NOARC
  • Federal Pioneer
  • FPE
  • FPE-Stab-Lok
  • Stab-Lok 

Deck Framing

International Building Code and International Residential Code.

More than a million decks are built and replaced each year in the United States. While decks are a popular feature of many homes, the construction and safety of decks have become a real concern within the building industry.Improper deck building has resulted in a growing number of deck failures and related injuries and deaths.

"Decks cause more injuries and loss of life than any other part of the home structure. Except for hurricanes and tornadoes, more injuries may be connected to deck failures than all other wood building components and loading cases combined."While decks are required to meet certain code standards and load capacities, it's estimated that of the 40 million existing decks, only half are code compliant - leaving 20 million decks that need to be rebuilt or retrofitted.To help design and building professionals build code compliant,safe decks.

Deck Framing inspections are needed to ensure the sub -contractor or the do-it-yourselfers ensure that their decks are properly constructed per the International BuildingCode® (IBC) and International Residential Code® (IRC). The guide includes a complete deck connector system that covers all the hardware needs for deck construction and references the code to ensure it meets current requirements.

Decks rarely meet code requirements?

Because they look relatively simple to build, many people do not realize that decks are structures that need to be designed to adequately resist certain stresses. Like a house, or any other building, a deck must be designed to support the weight of people and objects placed on them, as well as lateral and
uplift loads that can act on the deck as a result of wind or seismic activity. The 2006 versions of both the IBC and IRC contain language outlining the general design requirements of structures.

" Decks cause more injuries and loss of life than any other part of the home structure. "

Improperly built decks can be dangerous

A system of key connections throughout the deck framing, also known as a continuous load path, is essential to building a safe, code-compliant deck. When this system of connections is made properly, loads are transferred throughout the deck's frame and into the ground and /or the adjacent structure to which the deck is connected.The connections called out below are necessary in order to create an effective continuous load path.

When selecting hardware or fasteners for deck construction it is important to use connectors with a level of corrosion resistance appropriate to the application.Outdoor environments are generally more corrosive to steel because connectors are exposed to the elements. If building a deck in an area especially prone to moisture, such as homes along the coast or near bodies of water, the risk of corrosion is much higher. In addition, the chemicals used in some preservative treated woods have been found to increase the corrosion of connectors and fasteners. Other corrosion risk factors include exposure to fire retardants, fumes, fertilizers, soil, industrial zones,acid rain, and other corrosive elements.Connects beams at the side of the post. Provides bearing and uplift resistance, features doubleshear nailing for added strength. Horizontal application fastening railing post to deck framing.

It is estimated that of the 40 million existing decks, only half are code-compliant it is likely that many of these decks are potentially unsafe. In situations where it is not feasible to rebuild an existing deck, it may be preferable to retrofit it by applying hardware to existing framing members.Many of the products shown in this guide may be installed after deck framing is in place and can improve the safety of the structure and help bring it within the requirements of the code.The Life Expectancy of Decks.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta     www.Findmeaninspector.com

Why do many garages pose a fire hazard?

• Where are you most likely to do any welding, or any work on your car? These activities require working with all sorts of flammable materials.
• Water heaters and boilers are usually stored in garages, and they can create sparks that may ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will spark under certain conditions.
• Oil and gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and eventually ignite, given the proper conditions.
• Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, motor oil and paint are commonly stored in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, varnish, paint thinner and lighter fluid.
  

The following tips can help prevent garage fires and their spread:

• If the garage allows access to the attic, make sure a hatch covers this access.
• The walls and ceiling should be fire-rated. Unfortunately, it will be difficult for untrained homeowners to tell if their walls are Type X fire-rated gypsum. An inspector can examine the walls and ceiling to make sure they are adequate fire barriers. 
• The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and other potentially  flammable items are extremely dangerous if they are strewn about the garage floor.
• Use light bulbs with the proper wattage, and do not overload electrical outlets.
• Tape down all cords and wires so they are not twisted or accidentally yanked.

If there is a door that connects the garage to the living area, consider the following:

• Do not install a pet door in the door! Flames can more easily spread into the living area through a pet door, especially if it's made of plastic.
• Does the door have a window? An inspector can inspect the window to tell if it's fire-rated.
• The door should be self-closing. While it may be inconvenient, especially while carrying groceries into the house from the car, doors should be self-closing. You never know when a fire will happen, and it would be unfortunate to accidentally leave the door open while a fire is starting in the garage.
• Check the joints and open spaces around the door. Are they tightly sealed? Any openings at all can allow dangerous fumes, such as carbon monoxide or gasoline vapor, to enter the living area. A inspector can recommend ways to seal the door so that fumes cannot enter the living area.

Concerning items placed on the floor, you should check for the following:

• Store your flammable liquids in clearly labeled, self-closing containers, and only in small amounts. Keep them away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights and other sources of heat or flame.

• Never store propane tanks indoors. If they catch fire, they can explode. Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors.

In summary, there are plenty of things that you can do to prevent garage fires from spreading to the rest of the house, or to keep them from starting in the first place.

Make sure your AC thermostat is working well: A lot of homes have electronic thermostats these days and most run on battery power. Those batteries do have to be changed from time to time. My electronic thermostat supposedly had a low battery indicator, but I've found that changing the batteries before seeing the indicator has helped in the past. An electronic thermostat is just an automatic switch that basically turns your AC unit on and off at certain temperatures. If the batteries are low the switch may not be turning on or reading the air temperature properly.

2. Check your air conditioner's fuses and circuit breakers: A central air conditioner may have several different fuses in the whole electrical system. First try resetting the fuse for your central air conditioner at your electrical box by turning it off and then on. For my system I have to then go to my furnace/blower and flick a second switch on and off. This switch turns off whenever I turn off the main electric to it. A third fuse is probably outside on the wall next to the air conditioner unit or on the unit itself. Unless you know what you're doing I wouldn't recommend trying to change out these fuses which are often not on switches from what I've seen.

3. Check any AC reset buttons: Some newer air conditioner units have reset buttons which are essentially just fuses as well.

4. Wait 15 Minutes: This sounds silly, but after a recent power outtage from a thunderstorm we found that our central AC wasn't kicking on. Our electronic thermostat was blinking "Cool On" which meant that the thermostat was, in theory, working, but the AC wasn't responding. I went through the house resetting circuit breakers, hitting the reset button and doing just about everything I could think of. Finally, I just turned everything off (shut off the fuse, turned off the AC on the thermostat) and just... waited. I purposely waited about 15 minutes because I remembered that some AC units purposely won't power on for a certain amount of time after a circuit has been tripped. Me flicking the circuit breakers back and forth probably didn't help. After the 15 minutes was up, I flipped the circuit breaker back on, went to the thermostat, crossed my fingers, and turned on the AC. It started running almost immediately!

5. Read your central air conditioner's operations manual: I put this last because, let's face it, you've probably lost or never had the operations manual! If you can find the operations manual to your central air conditioner unit you may want to investigate to see if there are any recommended troubleshooting suggestions. By the way, if you know the brand and model of your central air conditioner you may actually be able to find a copy of the manual online. The same is true if you're not sure of how your electronic thermostat works.

If you've tried most of these and still can't get your AC working then the problem could be less of an electrical one and more of a mechanical one. Remember: be safe! If you're uncomfortable trying any of these steps then call a qualified air conditioner repair person!

From what I've seen most central air conditioners have a lifespan of about 12 - 18 years, though I once lived in a house with a little unit that was 22 years old and still running well. Though it might cost you $2,500 - $5,000 to replace it's important to remember that a new one will be much more energy efficient than your old unit and you'll have a little more peace of mind when you see those triple digits pop up on the weekly weather forecast!

Good luck and stay cool!

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta/ Serving 50 radius         www.Findmeaninspector.com

When a heat pump is operating in the heating mode or heat cycle, the outdoor air is relatively cool and the outdoor coil acts as an evaporator.  Under certain conditions of temperature and relative humidity, frost might form on the surface of the outdoor coil.  The layer of frost will interfere with the operation of the heat pump by making the pump work harder and, therefore, inefficiently.  The frost must be removed.  A heat pump has a cycle called a defrost cycle, which removes the frost from the outdoor coil.

A heat pump unit will defrost regularly when frost conditions occur.  The defrost cycle should be long enough to melt the ice, and short enough to be energy-efficient. In the defrost cycle, the heat pump is automatically operated in reverse, for a moment, in the cooling cycle.  This action temporarily warms up the outdoor coil and melts the frost from the coil.  In this defrost cycle, the outdoor fan is prevented from turning on when the heat pump switches over, and the temperature rise of the outdoor coil is accelerated and increased. The heat pump will operate in the defrost cycle until the outdoor coil temperature reaches around 57° F.  The time it takes to melt and remove accumulated frost from an outdoor coil will vary, depending on the amount of frost and the internal timing device of the system.

  Interior Heating Element

During this defrost cycle with older heat pumps, the indoor unit might be operating with the fan blowing cool air.  To prevent cool air from being produced and distributed inside the house, an electric heating element can be installed and engaged at the same time as the defrost cycle.  In defrost mode, this heating element will automatically turn on, or the interior blower fan will turn off.  The heating component is wired up to the second stage of a two-stage thermostat.

The Typical Cycle

The components that make up the defrost cycle system includes a thermostat, timer and a relay.  There is a special thermostat or sensor of the defrost cycle system, often referred to as the frost thermostat.  It is located on the bottom of the outdoor coil where it can detect the temperature of the coil. When the outdoor coil temperature drops to around 32° F, the thermostat closes the circuit and makes the system respond.  This causes an internal timer to start.  Many heat pumps have a generic timer that energizes the defrost relays at certain intervals of time. Some generic timers will energize the defrost cycle every 30, 60 and 90 minutes. The defrost relays turn on the compressor, switch the reversing valve of the heat pump, turn on the interior electric heating element, and stop the fan at the outdoor coil from spinning.  The unit is now in the defrost cycle.

The unit remains in the defrost cycle (or cooling cycle) until the thermostat on the bottom of the outdoor coil senses that the outdoor coil temperature has reached about 57° F. At that temperature, the outdoor coil should be free of frost.  The frost thermostat opens the circuit, stops the timer, then the defrost cycle stops, the internal heater turns off, the valve reverses, and the unit returns to the heating cycle. A typical defrost cycle might run from 30 seconds to a few minutes.  The defrost cycles should repeat regularly at timed intervals.  An inspector should not observe a rapid cycling of the defrost operation.

In summary, certain conditions can force a heat pump into a defrost cycle (or cooling cycle) where the fan in the outdoor coil is stopped, the indoor fan is stopped or electric heat is turned on, the frost melts and is removed from the outdoor coils.  When the frost thermostat is satisfied or a certain pre-set time period elapses, the outdoor fan comes back on, and the heat pump goes back into the heating cycle. One problem of many older heat pump systems is that the unit will operate in the defrost cycle regardless of whether ice is present.  On these systems, if it's cold outside, the defrost cycle might turn on when it is not needed. If the defrost cycle is not functioning properly, the outdoor coil will appear like a big block of ice, making the unit non-functional.  Damage could result if the heat pump operates without a functional, normal-operating defrost cycle.

Causes of Frost

There are many reasons why an inspector might find frost and ice stuck on an outdoor coil of a heat pump that is not properly defrosting.  The cause of the frost and ice problem may include:

• a bad reversing valve;
• a damaged outdoor coil;
• a wiring problem;
• a bad thermostat;
• a leak in the refrigerant;
• a dirty outdoor coil covered with grass, dirt, debris and/or pet hair;
• a fan that won't turn on;
• a fan installed backwards with the blades running in the wrong direction;
• a motor operating in the incorrect direction; and/or 
• a replacement fan motor spinning at a very low rpm. 

Central Air Conditioning System Inspection A building's central air conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following the tips offered in this guide.

Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the building that is designed to push heat from the inside of the building to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal "fins" that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components -- after turning off power to the unit!

• Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit's exterior. Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow.
• Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit's interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.
• Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb.
• Add lubricating oil to the motor. Check your owner's manual for specific instructions.
• Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year.  When they collect dirt, they may not function properly.

Inspect the Condensate Drain Line-Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit.  They are located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines-a primary drain line that's built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:

• Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
• Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly.

Clean the Air Filter Air filters remove pollen, dust and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 inches by 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer's instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade indoor air quality, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if building occupants have respiratory problems,if  you have pets with fur, or if dusty conditions are present. 

Cover the Exterior Unit

When the cooling season is over, you should cover the exterior condenser unit in preparation for winter. If it isn't being used, why expose it to the elements? This measure will prevent ice, leaves and dirt from entering the unit, which can harm components and require additional maintenance in the spring. A cover can be purchased, or you can make one yourself by taping together plastic trash bags. Be sure to turn the unit off before covering it.

Close the Air Distribution Registers

Air distribution registers are duct openings in ceilings, walls and floors where cold air enters the room. They should be closed after the cooling season ends in order to keep warm air from back-flowing out of the room during the warming season. Pests and dust will also be unable to enter the ducts during the winter if the registers are closed. These vents typically can be opened or closed with an adjacent lever or wheel.  Remember to open the registers in the spring before the cooling season starts.  Also, make sure they are not blocked by drapes, carpeting or furniture.In addition, homeowners should practice the following strategies in order to keep their central air conditioning systems running properly:

• Have the air conditioning system inspected by a professional each year before the start of the cooling season.
• Reduce stress on the air conditioning system by enhancing your home's energy efficiency. Switch from incandescent lights to compact fluorescents, for instance, which produce less heat.

                      Accurate Home Inspecton of Atlanta     404 680-4578        

Homebuyers of existing properties or properties completed less than one year that were not approved by HUD or the VA prior to the start of construction and that do not involve a 10 year warranty may arrange for an inspection by a private, professional Home Inspection company and include the cost of such inspection in their closing costs up to $200.00.

5-18.  CODE ENFORCEMENT FOR EXISTING PROPERTIES

       A.  Local housing code standards are designed by  municipalities.  Accordingly, enforcement of such housing standards rests with the local authority.  HUD has neither the authority nor responsibility for making such inspections or enforcing laws of the municipality.

      B.  The only HUD program in which code enforcement is required by statute is Section 221(d)(2) of the National Housing Act which  states " . . . and meeting the requirements of all State laws, or local ordinances or regulations relating to the health or safety, zoning, otherwise,  which may be applicable thereto . . . ."  Accordingly, at the time of closing, all mortgages on existing construction dwellings insured under Section 221(d)(2), must be supported by evidence in the form NSR from the a FHA HQS code Inspector that the dwelling conforms to the standards of local housing codes, regardless of whether such codes are regularly enforced at the time of sale or whether the community has a program of active UPCS {Uniform Property Code Standards} code  inspection

Do I need a home inspection? Do I need a special Inspector? Yes HQS/UPCS Certified by the FHA,Hud,Atlanta Housing Authority.

A: Yes! You must have a HQS FHA Certified home inspector on the purchase of FHA or Hud home. The inspection will help ensure our 203K loan doesn't encounter any unexpected problems during the renovation process. On most 203K loans you can use only code certified home inspector to do your inspection. The homebuyer may employ a home inspection company to  perform a home inspection, to include code conformance, and provide a certificate, signed by Certified HQS Inspector that  the property meets Georgia local codes. The cost of such inspection may  be included in the buyer's closing costs up to a maximum of two hundred dollars to two hundred and fifty dollars.

A.Any plumbing, heating, air conditioning, roofing or electrical certifications required by a HQS inspector will be ordered by the mortgagee.Certifications will be accepted only from reputable, independent, HQS qualified home inspectors listed on the HUD/FHA or Department of Community Affairs list.

 B.  Contractors selected for any specific certification shall not  have any identity of interest with any firm or person connected with the specific transaction nor may they perform any recommended  repairs. It shall be the responsibility of the Field Office to notify mortgagees of undesirable firms if a review of their performance indicates inadequate, inaccurate or otherwise poor certification reports.  The cost of any repairs found to be necessary may be borne by the seller, buyer or any other party.

Most people don't know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want their homes to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy-efficiency, Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home. 

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous in most parts of the U.S.
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
• It increases indoor comfort levels.
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -- and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can be hired to assess envelope leakage and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical outlets;
• mail slots;
• around pipes and wires;
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
• attic hatches;
• fireplace dampers;
• weatherstripping around doors;
• baseboards;
• window frames; and
• switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as: 

• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you'll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foam board insulation the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

• low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
• vacuum-assist toilets. These types of toilets have a vacuum chamber which uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum toilets are relatively quiet; and
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.  
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
• Use efficient "Energy Star"-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA's Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees. Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged. Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

• skylights. It's important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
• lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and 
• light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

  8. Insulate windows and doors.

  About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors

• • Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
  • Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place.
  • Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
  • If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.

  9. Cook smart.

  An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens. Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.

  Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame. 

  Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.

  Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.

  • When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster. 

10. Change the way you wash your clothes

• Do not use the "half load" setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the "half load" setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a "warm" setting, but 140 degrees isn't that much better for washing purposes.
•   
• Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. 

•· Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort.

FHA HQS NST Inspection. Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta - Completed Certification Exam and testing to perform HQS Inspection. We have the best rates in Atlanta. www.findmeaninspector.com

The HCV program regulations at 24 CFR 982.401(f) set forth the HQS requirements and acceptability criteria with respect to illumination and electricity for the housing unit.  The regulations state that a unit must include the following acceptability criteria for electricity. The kitchen and bathroom must have one permanent ceiling or wall light fixture in proper operating condition; and the living room and each bedroom must have at least two electrical outlets in proper operating condition (permanent overhead or wall-mounted light fixtures may count as one of the required electrical outlets). The inspector is responsible for determining whether the outlets are in "proper operating condition."  While the regulation does not define what the Department considers "proper operating condition," HUD-Form 52580A cites examples of electrical hazards including: 

•·   broken wiring;

•·   non-insulated wiring;

•·   frayed wiring;

•·   improper types of wiring, connections or insulation;

•·   wires lying in or located near standing water or other unsafe places;

•·   light fixture hanging from electric wiring without other firm support or fixture;

•·   missing cover plates on switches or outlets;

•·   badly cracked outlets;

•·  exposed fuse box connections; and

•·  overloaded circuits evidenced by frequently ‘'blown'' fuses (which the inspector determines by asking the tenant). 

 Types of Outlets and Their Proper Operating Condition

In response to an OIG audit, HUD is issuing this Notice to clarify the proper operating condition of electrical outlets (110V/120V).  There are two basic types of outlets: two-pronged (also called "two-slotted") and three-pronged outlets.  Three-pronged outlets have an additional hole for a ground wire, and are "grounded outlets."  Two-pronged outlets are "ungrounded."

Generally, original two-pronged, ungrounded outlets and original three-pronged, grounded outlets are acceptable under the HQS.  "Upgraded" outlets, which have been changed from two-pronged to three-pronged, are the major area of concern in this Notice. 

Ungrounded Outlets

Older construction (pre-1975) housing will usually have ungrounded two-pronged outlets, which is an acceptable type of outlet under the HQS. (Figure 1)  Homes constructed with a two-wire electrical system include only a hot and neutral wire.  Two-pronged ungrounded systems and outlets are acceptable under HQS as long as the outlet is in proper operating condition.  An owner does not need to upgrade the electrical system of the unit (convert two-pronged outlets to three-pronged) in order for the unit to pass an HQS inspection. 

Grounded Outlets

Newer construction housing will usually have three-pronged outlets, which are acceptable under HQS if the outlets are grounded.  (Figure 2)  Newer units constructed with a three-wire electrical system include a hot, neutral, and ground wire.  This Notice outlines traditional methods of testing grounded outlets for proper operating condition below.

"Upgraded" Outlets

Many of the cords for today's appliances contain three-pronged plugs, which can cause problems when an older home does not have three-pronged outlets for these grounded plugs.  In the case of older homes, owners often replace two-pronged, ungrounded outlets with three-pronged, grounded type outlets in order to establish appropriate outlets for appliances that have cords with three-pronged plugs.  However, in some cases, owners may replace two-pronged, ungrounded outlets with the three-pronged, grounded type outlets without the necessary rewiring that adds a ground wire to the newly installed, grounded type outlet. 

Three-pronged, grounded type outlets should not be substituted for ungrounded outlets unless (1) a ground wire is connected to the outlet, or (2) a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protects the outlet. (Figure 3)  Installing a new ground wire may require a licensed electrician to install a new wire to the circuit breaker box and may be prohibitively expensive.  A more cost-effective method is to protect the outlet with a GFCI, which provides protection to the outlet.  If the GFCI senses a difference in current flow between the hot and the neutral terminals, it shuts off the flow of current to the outlet.

An older construction house with a grounded outlet (Figure 2) would be an indication that the unit may have undergone some upgrading.  In such cases, the Department recommends testing a sample of outlets in the unit to determine if three-pronged outlets are in proper operating condition, in addition to verifying the proper operating condition of the required number of outlets per room.    

Testing of Outlets to Determine Proper Operating Condition  

Two-pronged, Ungrounded Outlets

The traditional method of testing a two-pronged, ungrounded outlet is to plug an appliance into the outlet and verify that the appliance turns on.  This simple method is acceptable for determining that the ungrounded outlet is in proper operating condition and meets HQS.

Three-pronged Outlets

A three-pronged outlet must meet one of the following three standards for the inspector to consider the outlet in "proper operating condition" as required by HQS: 

•1.      The outlet is properly grounded.

•2.      A GFCI protects the three-pronged, ungrounded outlet.

•3.      The outlet complies with the applicable state or local building or inspection code.

The inspector needs to use an outlet tester to determine whether the outlet is properly grounded.  There are two types of outlet testers that an inspector can use to determine a properly grounded outlet: a two-wire tester or a three-pronged tester. 

To test an outlet with a two-wire tester, an inspector inserts one probe into the hot slot (usually, the smaller slot) of the outlet and one probe into the ground hole (bottom hole).  If the outlet is properly grounded, the indicator light should light brightly in the same manner that the light shines when the inspector inserts the probes of the tester into the hot and neutral (right and left) slots. 

To test an outlet with a three-pronged tester, the inspector should plug the device in and note the pattern of the lights.  Usually there will be a legend printed on the device describing what the lights indicate.   The instructions provided by the manufacturer of the tester should be followed. 

If the inspector determines that the outlet is not properly grounded based on the results of the outlet tester, he/she may need to conduct some additional investigation to determine if a GFCI protects the outlet.  A GFCI can be located at the outlet that is being tested or upstream on the circuit of the outlet.  If the GFCI is at an outlet, it will look similar to Figure 3 above, and the inspector should accept the outlet as GFCI-protected after testing the functionality of the GFCI as indicated below.

As stated above, an ungrounded outlet may be protected by a GFCI at another outlet that is upstream from the ungrounded outlet.  If the inspector suspects that this may be the case, there is an easy way to determine if the GFCI protects an outlet.  The inspector should "trip" all of the GFCIs in the unit; both at the outlet and in the circuit breaker box and determine if there is power to the ungrounded outlet.  If the power to the outlet is off, then one of the GFCIs protects the outlet.

Occasionally, a GFCI may be located on the circuit breaker at the load center (circuit breaker box).  The following image depicts a GFCI breaker:  the distinctive indicator is the "Test" button mounted on the breaker.  An inspector may want to "trip" the GFCI in order to identify that the power shuts off to any ungrounded outlet that is protected by the breaker.  To "trip" the GFCI, the inspector would press the test button (A) and the switch (B) will move and shut off power to the circuit.  This allows the inspector to verify that the outlet is GFCI-GFCI Breaker

Testing of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) To Determine Proper Operating Condition

  If an outlet contains a GFCI, the GFCI must work as designed in order for the inspector to consider the GFCI in proper operating condition.  However, a GFCI can be in proper operating condition even if it is not grounded.  A GFCI is in proper operating condition if pressing the "TEST" button on the GFCI trips the circuit and shuts off power through the receptacle.  It is important to note that some three-prong testers have a GFCI test button function built into the tester.  The test button on a three-prong tester only works to trip a grounded GFCI.  Therefore, if the GFCI is not grounded, the circuit tester will erroneously indicate that the GFCI is malfunctioning.  As a result, inspectors cannot depend solely on-three prong testers to determine if a GFCI is in proper operating condition.  Instead, the inspector should press the "TEST" button, and if the button trips the circuit and shuts off the power through the receptacle, the GFCI is in proper operating condition. 

www.inspectoratlanta.com    www.Atlantahome-inspections.com

Let us provided you with comprehensive inspection services at affordable rate. Times are lean for those wanting to buy a home. Now is this best time to stop paying rent and own your on home.

The Georgia Dream Homeownership Program is available to qualified borrowers statewide who meet certain income guidelines and who are purchasing homes within certain purchase price limits. In addition, borrowers must have modest assets and meet the flexible credit underwriting criteria for the loan program they have selected. If need a FHA HQS Certified Inspector we provide HQS NSP Inspections for $215.00.

ACCURATE HOME INSPECTION OF ATLANTA         www.findmeaninspector.com

This program was created to encourage the purchase of foreclosed properties. Related to the Obama Housing Plan, the funds utilized are an allocation of federal dollars received by the Department of Community Affairs from the Housing and Economic Recovery Act of 2008.

The program provides $14,000 to eligible borrowers purchasing foreclosed properties in eligible areas. Funds are disbursed in the form of a second mortgage lien with no interest and no monthly payments. The lien is released over a period of five years and six months. Funds may be used for required repairs and/or down payment assistance.

This program begins April 1, 2009 and all funds must be disbursed by June 30, 2010.

How do I apply?

• All buyers must receive eight hours of in-person home buyer education/counseling provided by a HUD-approved housing counseling agency.
  
• Contact a Georgia Dream participating lender for pre-qualification and to begin the mortgage loan process. The lender will evaluate your credit worthiness based on FHA or VA guidelines and your qualifications for the program based on the Georgia Dream NSP Down Payment Program guidelines.

For a FREE Georgia Dream Program Brochure emailed to you and Prompt Assistance Finding Qualified Foreclosed Homes.

NEWS from CPSC
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Office of Information and Public Affairs
Washington, DC 20207

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
April 22, 2010
Release #10-202

Firm's Recall Hotline: (800) 797-5912, ext. 108
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

Wood Burning Stoves Recalled by SCAN Andersen Due to Injury Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: SCAN Andersen 10 Wood Burning Stove

Units: About 200

Importer: Jotul North America, of Gorham, Maine

Manufacturer: Jøtul AS, Fredrikstad, Norway

Hazard: The stove's door can dislodge and fall from its hinges, posing a risk of injury to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: Three incidents were reported to the firm including one report of a bruised foot.

Description: The recalled SCAN Andersen 10 wood burning stoves have serial numbers from 7951 through 8267. The serial number is printed on a label applied to the rear panel of the stove. These units are freestanding, black, cast iron stoves with a single front load door with glass pane. Dimensions are 35"H x 26 2/8" W x 16" D.

Sold at: Company dealers and distributors throughout the U.S. and Canada from March, 2009 to February, 2010.

Manufactured in: Norway

Remedy: Consumers should contact their dealer for a hinge replacement kit and to arrange for a free professional installation.

Consumer Contact: For more information contact Jotul North America at (800) 797-5912, ext. 108 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday or visit the firm's recall web page at www.jotul.com

To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled product, please go to:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml10/10202.html

A Home Energy Rating System (HERS) is a simulation-based method for calculating a house's energy-efficiency rating score, predicting its annual energy bills,and generating a tailored list of cost-effective energy improvements. Little research has been done on the subject of HERS accuracy. Therefore, we sought to assess HERS accuracy by comparing ratings and actual utility billing data for about 500 houses supplied to us by HERS providers in four states. We found that HERS can be accurate, on average, at predicting annual energy cost. However, for individual houses, the agreement between predicted and actual energy costs was poor, i.e. some houses were greatly overpredicted or underpredicted. Predictions for older houses were especially poor.

None of the HERS we examined showed any clear relationship between rating score and annual energy cost. A rating score only measures a house's individual potential for energy improvement, given its current shape and fuel mix; thus scores are not designed for comparing different houses in the same way that miles-per-gallon ratings can be used to compare cars. Nevertheless, many consumers and HERS-related housing programs expect and assume that houses with  higher rating scores will have lower energy costs. We found that houses with higher scores did not always use less energy than houses with lower scores, even when compared to houses of similar size.

HOME owners may soon have to reveal the energy efficiency of their homes when they put them up for sale, potentially affecting the value of millions of homes it is important to remember that efficiency - a feature of any good design - is also a social construct: the use patterns, maintenance behaviour and life style of the user community is part of the overall efficiency profile of a development. It is not widely appreciated that this component makes up the lion's share of total household energy consumption. The total energy intensity of an area in household consumption terms is composed 60-70% of embodied consumption energy.

Some of the innovative features include:

Living rooms with north and east facing orientation

1) Eaves, pergola and external fixed louvres for shading

2) External walls coated with a radiant heat reduction paint

3) Improved insulation using batts, AirCell insulation and foil backed sarking

4) Recycled aluminium framed windows with Low E performance glass to reduce heat transfer

5) Operable window louvres to encourage natural airflow and cross ventilation

6) High void area in dining room to allow heat to rise through the home and exit through the high void louvres during hot weather.

7) Brick cavity walls and solid masonry, double-storey internal wall to regulate inside temperature through thermal mass

8) Reversible ceiling fans in all bedrooms and living rooms

9) Energy efficient compact fluorescent lights with movement sensors which operate only when the room in occupied

10) Tankless hot water systems.In neighbourhood building and product design, by far the largest gains in energy efficiency, as much as 60-80%, can be achieved at no material or systems cost at all, by simply applying better design and greater knowledge, and common sense, in the design process.

The United States government-sponsored public interest program reinforcing good practice by labelling and rewarding high levels of energy efficiency, and the effectiveness of renewable energy installations. It provides a number of useful software tools and other resources on-line and free of charge.It rates buildings on a 1-100 scale in relation to a nationwide reference set of comparable buildings, applying US EPA's national energy performance rating system. Scores above 75 qualify for the Energy Star label. Annual weather variability, geographic location, facility scale and type from offices to warehoues,as well as a set of operational aspects are considered. Energy consumption, intensity and overall rating can be viewed at the same time; and access to the system can be networked throughout an organisation. Important portfolio and individual asset management decisions can flow from such insight. A sub-tool, Target Finder, is also accessible free of charge and usable via the Internet. It assists architects, engineers and other building designers in creating power targets and budgets. Another tool, the Delta Score Estimator, helps relate energy savings directly to the energy performance rating systems.

The International Energy Agency's Committee on Energy Research and Technology (IEA CERT), through its Renewable Energy Working Party, operates a cooperative research program specifically focused on lifecycle analysis tools for buildings.

www.findmeaninspector.com

May 7, 2009 the Agency for Toxic Substance and Diease Registry (ATSDR) contacted the Enironmental
Respones Team (ERT) office of Superfund Remediation for analytical assitance with the Chinese-Drwall
Manufactured and sent to Florida  and Georgia. Drywall shortages during the building boom in 2004 and
2006 prompted many builders to buy drywall from China.

Hundreds of millions of sheets of Chinese drywall were imported during this time. It is estimated that Georgia received over 6,050,370 lbs of the drywall. This equates to approximately 67,000 sheets of wallboard, enough drywall to build 670 single family homes. It has been determined that compounds from this product may contain butanethial, carbonyl sulfide, hydrogen sulfide, and strontium sulfide. The ATSDR requested that ERT conduct an independent analysis of Chinese Drywall, and six differant USA manufacture drywall. Six differant wallboard were selected for analysis.

The testing returned to EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) has declared many of these compounds to be toxic. Some Chinese wall board emitting rotten egg odors and causing corrosion to copper(e.g,power switehes,appliances. Many homeowners have been reporting physical ailments such as irritated eyes, sneezing, sinus problems, sore throats, asthma related symptoms, nosebleed, fatigue, headaches, and other unexplained symptoms, as well as an unusual odor in their homes similar to rotten eggs or ammonia.

This drywall has also been found to corrode electrical wiring, copper water lines, brass and silver hardware,
and plumbing fixtures. Electrical failures, A/C failures, and tarnished plumbing fixtures are all indications
that you have Chinese drywall.

The analysis was conducted to identify the elemental material contained in the drywall samples and is not
itsely intended to establish a definitive link between the drywall and conditions Reported to the EPA.

*Sulfur was detected at 83 parts per million(ppm) and 119 ppm in the chinese drywall samples. None is
U.S. manufactured drywall.

* Stronium was detected at 2,570 ppm in Chiness drywall, and 244ppm in U.S. Drywall.Acid solube sulfides
were not detected in any sample.
*Iron at 1,390ppm to 1,630ppm in chinese drywall and 841 ppm to 3,210ppm in US manufactured drywall samples.

Inspection and material testing are the best approach if you suspect your home to have the tainted drywall. Material testing requires a sample of the drywall to be taken and submitted to an accredited laboratory for analysis.

 
This is the most accurate method to test for the drywall. Proper documentation is key in successful Chinese drywall investigations. This requires a thorough investigation to document exposed metal components and the extent of their exposure to the corrosive vapor.

It is most important to have a you home inspect and test your home or commercial property. There are Multiple detection methods available to identify Chinese drywall, but be aware that air sampling has been found to be accurate in detecting these marker compounds. We recommend lab testing.If you think you have Chinese drywall,and would like to have testing performed. Please give us a call. You may have some legal resourses to turn to help remove if this is a problem in your home.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta Indoor air quality testing, mold, asbestos, lead,Etc.......... IQA2 Certified by the EPA. Reasonable Rates.

 VIEW THIS LINK:   http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/10/15/national/main5386796.shtml

Amidst a wave of Chinese import scares, ranging from toxic toys to tainted pet food, reports of contaminated drywall from that country have been popping up across the American Southeast. Chinese companies use unrefined "fly ash," a coal residue found in smokestacks in coal-fired power plants in their manufacturing process. Fly ash contains strontium sulfide, a toxic substance commonly found in fireworks. In hot and wet environments, this substance can offgas into hydrogen sulfide, carbon disulfide, and carbonyl sulfide and contaminate a home's air supply. 

The bulk of these incidents have been reported in Florida and other southern states, likely due to the high levels of heat and humidity in that region. Most of the affected homes were built during the housing boom between 2004 and 2007, especially in the wake of Hurricane Katrina when domestic building materials were in short supply. An estimated 250,000 tons of drywall were imported from China during that time period because it was cheap and plentiful. This material was used in the construction of approximately 100,000 homes in the United States, and many believe this has lead to serious health and property damage.

Although not believed to be life- threatening, exposure to high levels of airborne hydrogen sulfide and other sulfur compounds from contaminated drywall can result in the following physical ailments:

• sore throat;
• sinus irritation;
• coughing;
• wheezing;
• headache;
• dry or burning eyes; and/or 
• respiratory infections.
  

Due to this problem's recent nature, there are currently no government or industry standards for inspecting contaminated drywall in homes. Professionals who have handled contaminated drywall in the past may know how to inspect for sulfur compounds but there are no agencies that offer certification in this form of inspection. Homeowners should beware of con artists attempting to make quick money off of this widespread scare by claiming to be licensed or certified drywall inspectors. InterNACHI has assembled the following tips that inspectors can use to identify if a home's drywall is contaminated:

• The house has a strong sulfur smell reminiscent of rotten eggs.
• Exposed copper wiring appears dark and corroded. Silver jewelry and silverware can become similarly corroded and discolored after several months of exposure.
• A manufacturer's label on the back of the drywall can be used to link it with manufacturers that are known to have used contaminated materials. One way to look for this is to enter the attic and remove some of the insulation. 
• Drywall samples can be sent to a lab to be tested for dangerous levels of sulfur. This is the best testing method but also the most expensive.
  

Contaminated Chinese drywall cannot be repaired. Affected homeowners are being forced to either suffer bad health and failing appliances due to wire corrosion or replace the drywall entirely, a procedure which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. This contamination further reduces home values in a real estate environment already plagued by crisis. Some insurance companies are refusing to pay for drywall replacement and many of their clients are facing financial ruin. Class-action lawsuits have been filed against homebuilders, suppliers, and importers of contaminated Chinese drywall. Some large manufacturers named in these lawsuits are Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin, Knauf Gips, and Taishan Gypsum.   The Florida Department of Health recently tested drywall from three Chinese manufacturers and a domestic sample and published their findings. They found "a distinct difference in drywall that was manufactured in the United States and those that were manufactured in China." The Chinese samples contained traces of strontium sulfide and emitted a sulfur odor when exposed to moisture and intense heat, while the American sample did not. The U.S. Consumer Safety Commission is currently performing similar tests. Other tests performed by Lennar, a builder that used Chinese drywall in 80 Florida homes, and Knauf Plasterboard, a manufacturer of the drywall, came to different conclusions than the Florida Department of Health. Both found safe levels of sulfur compounds in the samples that they tested. There is currently no scientific proof that Chinese drywall is responsible for the allegations against it.     Regardless of its source, contamination of some sort is damaging property and health in the southern U.S. The media, who have publicized the issue, almost unanimously report that the blame lies with imported Chinese drywall that contains corrosive sulfur compounds originating from ash produced by Chinese coal-fired power plants. Homes affected by this contamination can suffer serious damage to the metal parts of appliances and piping and lead, potentially leading to considerable health issues. While no governing body has issued regulations regarding contaminated drywall, it is advisable that home inspectors be aware of the danger it poses and learn how to identify it.