Atlanta Inspection News! Consumer information

What are the benefits of using H-clips?H-clips increase panel stiffness by allowing distribution of weight between adjacent panels. A panel is less likely to deflect when subjected to a heavy load near its edges if it is made stiffer. This stiffening is particularly helpful for very thin panels (such as 3/8" inch) that are especially prone to bowing under heavy weight near their edges.The use of H-clips reduces the amount of required materials and lowers the cost of construction. A builder who uses H-clips may need fewer rafters to complete a project because the distance between them can be increased. H-clips may also allow builders to use thinner sheathing than they otherwise would be permitted to use. In either case, the cost of the job is reduced.

H-clips do not prevent wooden panels from buckling or warping. To the contrary, panels are more likely to buckle or warp when their room for expansion is limited, as is the case where H-clips are installed and panels are effectively connected to each other.

 Where are H-clips required?

The 2006 edition of the International Residential Code (IRC) requires the use of H-clips in construction, but not all jurisdictions comply with IRC regulations. For instance, Jackson, Miss., complies with the IRC while Harrison, Miss., does not. Some homes in jurisdictions that currently require H-clips were built before the IRC required them and are not in violation of code. Other homes were built before their jurisdictions adhered to IRC requirements. However, since InterNACHI standards of practice are limited to safety and system defects, it is not necessary for inspectors to determine whether a lack of H-clips constitutes a code violation.

 A lack of H-clips should not be noted as a defect unless:

construction plans reveal that their use is required. Keep in mind that inspectors will probably never see these plans.the inspector knows for a fact that they were required in a building's jurisdiction at the time of construction.

Many homes today have been built with trusses - prefabricated structural assemblies that hold up the roof and the top floor ceilings. Trusses are a series of triangles fastened together with gusset plates. The outside members of a truss are called chords while the inner pieces are known as webs.Truss uplift occurs when the top chord of the truss expands while the bottom chord contracts due to changes in humidity. Truss uplift usually becomes visible in a home during the winter when the bottom chords (the ceiling joist part of the truss), which are buried under ceiling insulation, stay warm and dry but the top chords are exposed to moisture.

The resulting stress causes the truss to lift up at its center. When this happens, a crack can appear at the wall/ceiling juncture.From a structural standpoint, truss uplift isn't a problem, but cosmetically, it can cause cracks and separations in the drywall. Many homeowners try to repair the cracks with drywall compound, only to have them reappear next year.

Contractors can mask truss uplift by securing the ceiling drywall to the top of the interior walls and not the trusses for 18 inches away from the interior walls. As the drywall flexes, it stays fastened to the walls while the trusses lift above it.  

Decorative molding can also be installed where the walls meet the ceilings. The molding should be fastened to the ceilings, not to the walls so as the ceiling move up, so does the molding thereby hiding the gap.

Homes that were completely underwater or that are flooded to the upper floors in the Austell, and douglasville areas, the cost of repair will probably exceed the cost of moving. At the very least, the interior finishes of a waterlogged house must be stripped and replaced. High water can also damage the wiring, gas lines, furnace, and septic system, as well as furniture and appliances.Wind and water can cause a house's structural components-the struts, studs, and foundation-to shift or warp.

Tilting walls or a shifted roof also suggest dangerous structural damage that could signal an imminent collapse. Flood victims should check the foundations of their homes for cracks before venturing inside.

Inside the house, ceilings may sag under the weight of trapped water or soggy drywall. Wet floorboards bend and buckle, and the roof may leak or break altogether. Flooding in the basement can be especially dangerous; if the water is removed too quickly, pressure from the soaked earth outside can push
inward and crack the foundation walls.

Brick and masonry houses will suffer less exterior damage than those made of wood. In all types of housing, though, flooding will most likely destroy the interior walls. Soaked wallboard becomes so weak that it must be replaced, as do most kinds of wall insulation. (The higher the water gets, the more
interior walls must be replaced.) Studs will eventually dry out and return to their original shape, but any plywood in the walls is likely to swell and peel apart. Water can also dissolve the mortar in a chimney, which creates leaks and thus a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning once the heat comes back on.

Structural hazards account for only one category of water damage. Floods often deposit dirt and microorganisms throughout the house. Silt and sediment can create short circuits in the electrical system as gunk collects in walls and in the spaces behind each switch box and outlet. Appliances, furnaces, and
lighting fixtures also fill with mud, making them dangerous to use.

Anything that gets soaked through with water may contain sewage contaminants or provide a substrate for mold. A long-lasting flood provides more time for the mold to grow and requires more cleanup after the fact. Carpets have to be thrown away, along with mattresses, bedding, and most upholstered furniture.
Kitchen items, clothes, washing machines, and dryers must be disinfected with bleach, and all surviving interior surfaces should be cleaned to prevent mold growth. Standing water in a house can also serve as a breeding ground for insects and other animals.

In this sluggish market the value of the homes purchased is far less than I'm sure the goverment wants to pay. So the question is do I take a loss on my home through the buy out or loose money correcting repairs that will haunt the home down the road. Also with disclosure laws, this will have to be in the disclosure when you decided to move, and this will turn buyers away.

Recent medical studies show that mold is one of the most common causes of allergic symptoms and certain types of mold can cause fatal disorders.  The presence of mold, fungus and mildew can create a health hazard in a home, and homes should be tested to determine the type of mold growing in a home.

Mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed. In recent years, the nation has been gripped by the fear that their own home is making them sick, well-known as "sick home syndrome". Because homes and businesses are being built "tighter," moisture that is trapped within the walls before, during or after construction, is contributing to the growth of toxic mold, often referred to as "black mold." This mold travels through the air and is inhaled by the occupants causing a multitude of health problems. The problem of black mold.

Some common Fungus found in homes are:

•1)      Aspergillus- A genus of fungi containing over 100 species, approximately 11 of which are commonly encountered in American Homes. All natural occurring aspergillus are toxigenic. A fast growing mold that may cause infection in people who have compromised immune systems or have asthma.  

Penicillium- A fungi that tend to be blue green in color, commonly found on moist, non-living matter. This type of fungi requires less moisture and cooler temperatures than other types of mold      

The symtoms of this type of Mold Exposure are as follows;    Bronchospasms, Edema,Pulmonary emphysema, Pneumonitis, Sneezing, Coughing, Low-grade Fever, Headaches.

•2) StachyBotrys- A greenish or black mold. A product of prolonged water damage involving exposure to cellulose materials.Stachybotrys molds produce my cotoxins considered to be extremely hazard. Stachybotrys spores have been recorded as toxigenic, and this fungus should be treated with caution.

The symtoms due to long time exposure may included; Fatigue, Skin rashes, Liver and Kidney cancer,Bone and lymphoid disorders, Lung Cancer.

There are millions of different types of spores and fungus that could be in your home.

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).Have accurate home inspection of atlanta inspect your property for mold,and air quality of your home.

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and health effects is ongoing.

A Green Home Begins with ENERGY STAR Blue

Homebuilders and homebuyers across the country are increasingly interested in green building. But what exactly makes a home green?

Did You Know?

Did you know that a typical home can cause twice the greenhouse gas emissions of the typical car?

Green building means improving the way that homes and homebuilding sites use energy, water, and materials to reduce impacts on human health and the environment. Building a green home means making environmentally-preferable and sustainable decisions throughout the building process-decisions that will minimize the environmental impact of the home while it is being built and over the many years it will be lived in.

What should homebuyers look for first in a green home?

Energy efficiency is the place to start. That's because the energy used in homes often comes from the burning of fossil fuels at power plants, which contributes to smog, acid rain, and risks of global climate change. So, the less energy used, the less air pollution generated. And the easy way to make sure a new home is energy efficient is to look for the blue ENERGY STAR mark, the government-backed symbol for energy efficiency.

ENERGY STAR qualified homes are independently verified to meet strict guidelines for energy efficiency set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. These homes save money on utility bills, provide a more comfortable living environment with better indoor air quality, and help protect the environment.

Typical features to look for in ENERGY STAR qualified homes include:

Did You Know?

Each ENERGY STAR qualified home can keep 4,500 lbs of greenhouse gases out of our air each year. And because homes have such long life spans, this environmental benefit lasts for many, many years.

• An Efficient Home Envelope, with effective levels of wall, floor and attic insulation properly installed, comprehensive air barrier details, and high-performance windows;
• Efficient Air Distribution, where ducts are installed with minimum air leakage and are effectively insulated;
• Efficient Equipment for heating, cooling, and water heating;
• Efficient Lighting, including fixtures that earn the ENERGY STAR; and
• Efficient Appliances, including ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers, refrigerators, and clothes washers.

These energy efficiency improvements save homeowners money - about $200 to $400 per year on utility bills. More importantly, monthly energy savings can easily exceed any additional mortgage cost for the energy efficiency improvements, resulting in a positive cash flow from the first day of home ownership. As a result, the cost-effectiveness of ENERGY STAR improvements can help offset additional costs associated with other green home features.

What comes after energy efficiency?

Homebuyers can also look for the Indoor airPLUS label - a new specification developed by EPA to address the indoor environment component of green building. Homes that achieve this level of excellence are first qualified as ENERGY STAR, and then also incorporate more than 60 additional home design and construction features to control moisture, chemical exposure, radon, pests, ventilation, and filtration. Together, these features help protect qualified homes and their residents from mold, chemicals, combustion gases, and other airborne pollutants.

Completing the green home picture

Through ENERGY STAR qualified homes and the Indoor airPLUS Program, homebuyers can address two critical green home elements. Then, look to the wide variety of available green home programs to complete the picture with water-efficient products, renewable energy technologies, waste reduction, recycling, and sustainable land development practices.

Heating water accounts for up to 30 percent of the average home's energy budget. Some makers of gas-fired tankless water heaters claim their products can cut your energy costs up to half over regular storage heaters. So is it time to switch?

Probably not. Gas tankless water heaters, which use high-powered burners to quickly heat water as it runs through a heat exchanger, were 22 percent more energy efficient on average than the gas-fired storage-tank models in our tests. That translates into a savings of around $70 to $80 per year, based on 2008 national energy costs. But because they cost much more than storage water heaters, it can take up to 22 years to break even-longer than the 20-year life of many models. Moreover, our online poll of 1,200 readers revealed wide variations in installation costs, energy savings, and satisfaction.

Water heaters are fond to state there ability to provide an endless amount of hot water. But inconsistent water temperatures were a common complaint among our poll respondents. When you turn on the faucet, tankless models feed in some cold water to gauge how big a temperature rise is needed. If there's cool water lingering in your pipes, you'll receive a momentary "cold-water sandwich" between the old and new hot water. And a tankless water heater's burner might not ignite when you try to get just a trickle of hot water for, say, shaving.

Nor do tankless water heaters deliver hot water instantaneously. It takes time to heat the water to the target temperature, and just like storage water heaters, any cold water in the pipes needs to be pushed out. And tankless models' electric controls mean you'll also lose hot water during a power outage.

The tankless water heaters  cost $800 to $1,150, compared with $300 to $480 for the regular storage-tank types. Tankless models need electrical outlets for their fan and electronics, upgraded gas pipes, and a new ventilation system. That can bring average installation costs to $1,200, compared with $300 for storage-tank models. Tankless model warned of scale buildup Calcium buildup can decrease efficiency, restrict water flow, and damage tankless models. Experts suggest installing a water softener if your water hardness is above 11 grains per gallon. Ignoring this advice can shorten your warranty.

Within the next 10 years pre-fabricated modular homes are going to take over the housing industry. Wait, before you start yelling, let me offer at least a brief explanation.

A perfect storm of changes
The whole industry is in a slump, we all know that. But it will rebound, and when it does, there will be more demand for a higher quality product. As energy costs increase and the existing housing stock dwindles, the average potential home buyer will want a house that's well-built, energy-efficient, and affordable. The days of the big-box McMansion are coming to an end.

At the same time, more stringent energy codes will be here before you know it, forcing builders and developers of junk houses to put up or shut down. And the pool of experienced labor will continue to shrink as fast as the concept of a house as a complex of interdependent systems grows.

A glimpse at the future
And it's starting already, albeit in dribs and drabs. (The slowdown hasn't been much help to emerging companies.) People like Michelle Kaufmann/Blu Home, Resolution: 4, Rocio Romero and Bensonwood are just a quick sample of the people that are turning to a modern way of building. Why? It's faster, the quality control is better so the product is better, and it costs less. It's just what struggling builders and homeowners need.

"In the next five years, there will be a huge transition on building sites where cutting and shaping will be rapidly eliminated, being replaced by value-added construction components, products and systems that will have been off-site cut, shaped and/or prefabricated, leaving the building site for assembly and installation only. 

"I think this much is as inevitable as was the transition to off-site cabinets, windows, pre-hung doors and trusses. What is in question is the form that this pre-fabrication will take and what solutions will predominate. Answering that question is one of the biggest opportunities ever to come to the homebuilding industry."

The notion of building a house by hand on-site is, in a lot of ways, a romance whose flame has died. There will always be a place for skilled people to build shelter, but the time will come when most of us won't be able to afford to ignore a better house.

Congress has extended the $8,000 first time homebuyer tax credit through April 30, 2010. A new $6,500 tax credit program has been created for repeat or step up buyers who are purchasing a principal residence if they have been residing in their current residence for five consecutive years out of the past eight.

Home buyers must sign a purchase contract before May 1, 2010. Active military personnel have until June 30, 2010. Homes purchased must be under $800,000.

In order to claim the full tax benefits, the income of single taxpayers must be less than $125,000. For couples the income eligibility maximum is $225,000. Buyers can claim the tax credit on their 2009 or 2010 tax return.The tax credit does not have a repayment requirement, but homebuyers must use the acquired home for at least three years or face a recapture declaration of the credit amount.

The tax credit is a refund situation. Therefore, the homebuyer can claim the credit even if they owe little or no income tax. The home buyer would (potentially) receive a check.

Let us hope that this additional tool will serve to stimulate the housing market and generate more inspection transactions for all during the first part of 2010

Home Inspection Atlanta www.findmeaninspector.com

A modification to mechanical joints (Section 605.17.2) has been made to the 2009 International Plumbing Code (IPC). The code change will ensure that the correct combination of tubing and fittings will be installed together for crosslinked polyethylene plastic (PEX) systems.

A modification to prohibited installations, air admittance valves (Section 917.8) has also been made in the 2009 IPC. The prohibited locations of air admittance valves (AAVs) has been expanded to address sump vents. Installations using an AAV for a sump vent shall be in accordance with the engineered design criteria of Section 105.4.

The code change will ensure that the correct combination tubing and fitting will be installed together for cross linked polyetylene plastic (PEX ) systems.

605.17.2 Mechanical joints shall be installed to manufacture's instructions. Pex tubing shall be marked with appropriate standards for the fittings that the pex manufacturer specifies for use for the tubing.

There are four common systems of pex or PB pipping:
1) Pb with metal insert commpression fitting.
2) PB with a plastic gray Fitting made from acetal resin;
3) PB with manifolds (normally metal,but can be plastic);
4) PB with the manabloc manifold syetem.
The first two systems were installed between January 1, 1978 and
July 31, 1995, you as a purchaser rights Under the national class action lawsuit
was ended January 31,2009.

Congress recently extended and expanded the homebuyer tax credit program that was responsible for generating some new residential purchase activity this past year. This tax credit program, coupled with historically low mortgage rates, and an abundance of homes to choose from, helped push a difficult real estate market forward this past year.

Congress has extended the $8,000 first time homebuyer tax credit through April 30, 2010. A new $6,500 tax credit program has been created for repeat or step up buyers who are purchasing a principal residence if they have been residing in their current residence for five consecutive years out of the past eight.

Home buyers must sign a purchase contract before May 1, 2010. Active military personnel have until June 30, 2010. Homes purchased must be under $800,000.

In order to claim the full tax benefits, the income of single taxpayers must be less than $125,000. For couples the income eligibility maximum is $225,000. Buyers can claim the tax credit on their 2009 or 2010 tax return

The tax credit does not have a repayment requirement, but homebuyers must use the acquired home for at least three years or face a recapture declaration of the credit amount.

The tax credit is a refund situation. Therefore, the homebuyer can claim the credit even if they owe little or no income tax. The home buyer would (potentially) receive a check.

Let us hope that this additional tool will serve to stimulate the housing market and generate more inspection transactions for all during the first part of 2010.

By David Brauner, Editor
 

In a recent Working RE story, Appraiser: I'm No Home Inspector, appraiser Tony Bamert says he is asked to do work that he is not qualified for- namely that of a home inspector. Several home inspectors say they know how Bamert feels.

With 17 years experience, five as the head of his own firm, Bamert is fully familiar with standard procedures, and feels these requests are pushing him beyond that norm. "As an appraiser, my job is to go through the house, take notes and use comparables to come up with a value for that property," he explains. "That's completely different than the role of a home inspector. Now they are asking the appraiser to test some of the mechanical systems and give a statement if they are in working condition."

 Bamert says he's not comfortable with such requests, nor does he have the expertise to make such an evaluation. "On an FHA inspection, our job is not to make a determination on whether something is in good working condition or not." he notes. "When something doesn't look right, we advise to hire a home inspector to take a look."

Home inspector Chris Temple says he's been there but did something about it. "We California home inspectors were faced with a very similar circumstance several years ago. When homeowner's insurance companies started getting hit with mold claims, one of their reactions was to have the home inspector complete a one-page questionnaire about the property. The questionnaire did not fall within our home inspector standards of practice, and in fact was way outside of our scope."

Temple says he and other inspectors put an end to it. "The home inspection community was generally united in rejecting this pass-along liability. Most home inspectors simply refused to do it. I believe the reason we actually got away with not doing it is because of our professional associations (CREIA, ASHI) and a lack of government regulation. The real estate appraisal associations (and insurance providers) need to unite their membership in their opposition."

Inspector Jon Rudolph has experienced similar "cross over," when working for lenders. "I have seen a trend in the last six months or so where my (buying) client's lender and even the mortgage insurance company have asked for my professional opinion on the physical condition of a subject home, stemming from the appraiser's comments," said Rudolph.

"I have no problem doing this as it helps my client in the home purchase process," Rudolph said. "After all, I am in the service business. I obtain permission from my client to respond and discuss the home inspection with the lender or related parties on their behalf.  My statements are qualified, limiting my liability with no guarantee or warranty to the home's condition and they reference the initial inspection report, as the case should be. I understand why these questions are being asked of the inspector.  I also think it's a testament to the value and credibility of the home inspection industry and service today."

Here are some questions Rudolph raises:

* Fee: "Should inspectors charge clients extra for the time and added liability exposure for these services? If so, what is an appropriate fee?"

* Unintended Consequences: "So far the requests appear to have been based on the appraiser's stated observation(s), raising concerns with the underwriter who needs a better understanding of the apparent physical condition and risk- as it may affect the loan's collateral asset," Rudolph said.  "My home inspection observations are more comprehensive; the ‘expert' opinion. Apparently the underwriter knows the appraiser is not a qualified home inspector. Consequently, each case has come with the risk of opening a new can of worms for the buyer in obtaining the loan or obtaining the loan with the initial terms, as my observations may reveal bigger and unknown concerns for the underwriter that were not identified by the appraiser."

* Possible Conflict of Interest: "My client, the buyer/borrower, has a different objective and perspective than the lender/mortgage insurer," Rudolph said. "So, a home inspection for a buyer may inadvertently cause problems with the financing because of the more comprehensive assessment of the home's physical condition and the lender/mortgage insurer are now expanding the physical condition into the lending process.  Under some scenarios, I could see a buyer foregoing a home inspection if it would conflict with the loan.  If that's the case, would the lender ‘require' a home inspection?  What if the buyer doesn't want or approve the disclosure of the home inspection to the lender? What if the buyer, by a chosen option, pays for a home inspection only to have the inspection be the basis for denying the loan or modifying terms that won't work for the buyer? They could incur some considerable out-of-pocket expenses (home inspection and appraisal) for information benefiting the lender and not them."

Lets hear your comments on this issue.Is this good for the buying consumer?

FHA appaisser are handling all hud home inspections. I have aevidence that this is still going on leaving the buyer vunerable. All property, including HUD real estate-owned properties must have the utilities inspected. HUD's M&M contractor shall permit entry to the purchaser(s) during the contract period to activate the utilities for the purposes of conducting a home inspection. If the HUD REO appraisal was completed without the utilities being activated, the mortgage lender or purchaser(s) must complete the systems check while the utilities are activated.

·          When utilities (gas, water, electricity) are not turned on at the time of the appraisal, the appraiser is expected to condition the appraisal report for a certification stating that all utilities have been tested and that they appear to be in good working order.

OR

·          Permission to turn on the utilities must be obtained by the applicant and the real estate agent during the loan process, from the HUD vendor managing the property.  Generally, the vendor will require a request from the applicant, and will advise the real estate agent and applicant as to the procedures to follow. 

OR

·          When utilities have been turned on, an inspection can be ordered through Fulfillment or may be ordered by the real estate agent.  A certification as to the inspection findings is required.

OR

·          The certification, that all utilities have been tested and appear to be in good working order, must be done by a licensed home inspector, an inspector from the local building department, a FHA compliance inspector, a licensed professional in the specific field.

This is coming from an e-mail from VP of a Big Bank Mortgage department. Take a close look at who performed this inspection

Faye,

I did see where appraisal indicated that utilities were not active at time of inspection. But according to the guide:

When utilities (gas, water, electricity) are not turned on at the time of the appraisal, the appraiser is expected to condition the appraisal report for a certification stating that all utilities have been tested and that they appear to be in good working order.

Will the appraiser's comments on page 23 and 24 suffice?  It looks like all electrical and HVAC were tested with a generator and Plumbing was tested by being pressurized.

APPRAISER TO PROVIDE UTILITIES TO BE TURNED ON AND APPRAISER TO INSPECT AND CONFIRM ALL MECHANICALS ARE IN WORKING ORDER.

VP - Mortgage Loan Officer

 I was hired to check the water heating system,Hvac,and water supply. The property was winterized when I arrived. This was two days after the appraiser performed his inspection. He missed the termited damage throughout the house,and who knows what else. I wasn't hired to perfom the complete inspection.It was already done by a appraiser. The goverment isn't making Hud standdin complince. Look at this link from Hud below.

http://www.hud.gov/offices/adm/hudclips/forms/files/92564-cn.pdf

 i

By Michael Antoniak

Appraiser Tony Bamert, Bamert & Associates, Champaign, IL, feels he's been asked to assume some new and unwanted responsibilities on recent appraisal orders and wonders if his are isolated concerns or issues other appraisers are grappling with as well.

"Traditionally, with any conventional appraisal, I'm not asked to touch the mechanical systems in a home in any way," he explains. "But over the last year or so, since the market meltdown, I'm being asked to do things I'm not comfortable with as an appraiser."

Specifically, Bamert is referring to appraisal orders on foreclosed homes with guidelines requesting he "include commentary within the body of your appraisal report which indicates whether the utilities (water, electric, gas) were turned on and operational or turned off at the point of the appraisal inspection." Another's guidelines stipulate, "....Appraisers must state within the appraisal that all utilities including water are on and working..."

With 17 years experience, five as the head of his own firm, Bamert is fully familiar with standard procedures, and feels these requests are pushing him beyond that norm. "As an appraiser, my job is to go through the house, take notes and use comparables to come up with a value for that property," he explains. "That's completely different than the role of a home inspector. Now they are asking the appraiser to test some of the mechanical systems and give a statement if they are in working condition."

Bamert says he's not comfortable with such requests, nor does he have the expertise to make such an evaluation. "On an FHA inspection, our job is not to make a determination on whether something is in good working condition or not." he notes. "When something doesn't look right, we advise to hire a home inspector to take a look."

Bamert's core concern is the potential legal liability he could expose himself to by offering a professional judgment on matters beyond the scope of his experience and qualifications. He also wonders- were a worst case scenario to occur and a homeowner suffer financial loss or personal harm due to misplaced faith in his opinion on the "working condition" of a utility- whether he would be protected by his errors and omissions insurance.

Several contacts at mortgage companies and AMCs, who routinely request such judgment calls from appraisers, dismiss Bamert's worries as much ado about nothing. Speaking off the record, and requesting anonymity, one maintains, "FHA requests have asked appraisers to make sure the utilities are functioning for years. Due to the number of foreclosures and bank-owned properties, other lenders have glommed onto that." He says that nothing in an appraisal request is mandatory and appraisers are encouraged to raise any concerns as soon as an order is received. "If an appraiser feels a request is outside the scope of their knowledge and experience, they should refuse that order or advise when a home inspection is warranted."

Leslie Seller MAI, SRA, 2009 president-elect of the Appraisal Institute, advises appraisers to be aware of the concerns raised by Bamert and take proactive steps to protect themselves. "The bottom line is everyone is more concerned about their collateral these days, and they are just looking to get more out of their appraisals," he says. "Some want to save money, some want another set of eyes to look at the property and a few simply don't understand the difference between an appraiser and a home inspector."

His best advice: use language which limits exposure and potential liability. "To protect themselves, appraisers should state in their report the scope of their work. Include a qualifier which states ‘I am not an engineer, and I am not a home inspector.' Make it clear where you do not have expertise, what you did or did not do," said Seller.

That's a strategy Bamert arrived at on his own. When asked to evaluate the working order of household systems, he'll include statements like, "I turned on the light and the light came on," or that he turned on the faucet and water came out. "Beyond that, I don't know how to determine if a system is working properly," he reiterates. "I'm not trained for it, and it's something I don't like being asked to do."

Taken with permission from Working RE Magazine - Home Inspector's Edition (www.workingre.com). WRE is published by OREP (www.orep.org), specializing in E&O insurance for home inspectors, appraisers and other real estate professionals. OREP is one of TIJ's sponsors.

I am certified inspector who spent 350.00 and 7 days class room instructions on inspection procedure on the the 52580-A FHA Inspection process. After the training a test follows were you have to receivesa 78 or above in order to receive for your certification. Since January 2009 when this program has started the lending institution's are changing as they. They are going against all that was instructed for these procedures.

According to:

The Uniform Codes Act is codified at chapter 2 of title 8 of The Official Code of Georgia Annotated. O.C.G.A. Section 8-2-20(9)(B) identifies the ten "state minimum standard codes". Each of these separate codes typically consist of a base code (e.g. The International Building Code as published by the International Code Council) and a set of Georgia amendments to the base code. Georgia law further dictates that eight of these codes are "mandatory" (are applicable to all construction whether or not they are locally enforced.

1.) International Building Code
2.)One and Two Family Dwelling Code (International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings
3.)International Fire Code
4.)International Plumbing Code
5.)International Mechanical Code
6.)Fuel Gas Code
7.)National Electrical Code
8.) Energy Conservation Code

As noted above, the building, one and two family dwelling, fire, plumbing, mechanical, gas, electrical and energy codes are mandatory codes, meaning that under Georgia law, any structure built in Georgia must comply with these codes, whether or not the local government chooses to locally enforce these codes. I certified that the residential structure meets all local code requirements and are in substantial conformity
with all UNIFORM CODES as published and enforced by the offical building code standards.

This is concerning to me on two levels. First the Uniform Code are applied for a reason. In the forms where a stove must be present states that the dwelling doesn't meet the FHA protocols and should be marked as Failed. You have only two ways to inspect. Is there a cook top present and functional {Pass}. If no cook top in dwelling mark failed.

The lending instutuions are breaking the rules once again with each lender after only money and no concern what so ever to the buyers. It makes sub-contractor inspector look foolish and unprofessional changing things letting only the FHA inspectors know these changes and hiding behind many shields of paper work and pass inspections . When third parties who have the same certification and take the job seriously and lookout for their customer, and were taught the same procedures.

I feel like this was wasted time and money to pay 350.00 and all the classes and testing if you are not going buy the procedures.

My personal Opinion

It's usually considered an advantage to have a tight home; limiting air movement through the building envelope means you don't lose the air you've paid to heat, right?But what about all those sweaty, smelly bodies, human and dog, especially wet dog? Easy answer! Just take a shower/put him out ‘til he's dry,
Jeez, some people! But wait... people, showers, dish and clothes washers and cooking put moisture into the air and a number of activities put odors into the air. This means for the home to have clean, comfortable air, stale air must be ventilated to the outside and be replaced with clean air.

There are different methods used to recover the heat from the stale home air before it's ventilated to the outside. One way is with a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV). Wherever did they get that name? HRV's work by passing outgoing warm air past incoming cold air. A good portion of the heat is transferred to the incoming cold air, which means you heat less air and save more money.                                                     

Inadequate number of air exchanges per hour can result in...

Excessive humidity
unpleasant odors
Increase in mold spore concentrations
Control of moisture around the home increases efficiency and comfort.Consistent moisture levels are more easily maintained inside the conditioned space when surrounding areas are dry.
Crawl spaces may be susceptible to bulk moisture in part because there are no waterproofing requirements for "uninhabitable" under-floor areas.                                                                                            Crawl vents allow airborne moisture air contact with framing, pipes and ducts.

Basements require deeper excavation than crawl spaces. Their floors are "closer" to seasonal high water tables and are subject to higher soil and moisture loads. Measures to reduce bulk moisture around the perimeter of the home include:
1) Maintain roof drainage: Keep gutters clean and properly pitched, pipe downspouts away from foundation walls.                                                                                                                                                           2) Create a positive slope away from foundation walls. Install drains, swales, or retaining walls, add soil where backfill has settled. Fill voids under walks, stoops and patios.

If bulk moisture (visible signe of water) is controlled airborne moisture can be reduced by closing crawl or basement vents.

Maintaining the plumbing system in your home is very important. Correcting problems immediately can prevent costly repairs to your home and to the fixtures. Even minor leaks can cause major damage and waste thousands of gallons of water. Before taking on any plumbing repair, always turn off water to the fixture or to the entire house. Click on the links below for helpful maintenance and conservation tips.

TOILETS: Toilets use up to 40% of our total water consumption. Running toilets can waste hundreds of gallons of water each day. If the toilet should have a running water sound, if the toilet fills when it is not in use, or if the toilet doesn t stop running, it is time for a repair. Replacing the flapper, the flush valve, or both will correct this problem. To check for smaller leaks in your toilet tank, turn the water off to the toilet, take the lid off of the tank, mark the water level, and come back an hour or two later to see if the water level dropped.                                                                                                                                              

If the water level drops, it is time for a repair. If your toilet leaks at the floor, the wax seal should be replaced. If your toilet is loose or rocks when you sit on it, it probably needs a new wax seal and new toilet bolts. Letting this problem go without correction can cause costly damage to the flooring, and to the ceiling below. If your toilet should clog, attempt to plunge with an ordinary household plunger. If this doesn t correct the problem, different equipment is needed, and you should call a qualified plumbing contractor.

FAUCETS: Repair leaky faucets to save water and prevent further damage to the faucet or the fixture. There are numerous brands of faucets and replacement parts. Be sure to use the correct replacement parts for your faucet. Over time, the aerators on your faucets can become clogged and reduce pressure. To maximize performance, the aerator should be cleaned periodically.

Conservation Tip:
Dripping faucets can lose over 100 gallons per day, more than 4000 gallons per month. Fixing problems quickly can save water and money.

Conservation Tip:  Replacing old showerheads can save water without  compromising water pressure.
Old showerheads can use up to 7.5 gallons per minute, while newer ones use as little as 2.2 gallons per minute. Plus, if you are using fewer gallons per minute of hot water, it will keep your shower running hotter for a longer period of time.

HOT WATER HEATERS: Maintenance on your water heater should be done at least once per year, and preferably twice per year. To flush sediment build up in the tank, drain a few gallons of water from the faucet located at the bottom of the tank. Test the temperature / pressure relief valve on the top or side of the water heater by pulling up on the lever and allowing some water to come out. If the lever is stuck or no water comes out, this fitting should be replaced. This is a safety feature and needs to be operating properly for your protection. Never keep any flammable liquids or solvents near your water heater or furnace. The pilot flame could spark an explosion.

These pumps operate in a very harsh environment (submersed in sewage) and often fail after just a few years. Failure of your pump could mean sewage back-up in your basement. {Consider installing an alarm in your sewage ejector tank. An alarm is designed to buzz loudly in the event of pump failure. Assuming you're home when this occurs, you should have ample time to shut-off your water before the sewage reaches flood level.Remember, alarms can fail too! It is best to NOT store valuable items on the basement floor if they could be damaged by water or sewage flooding.

If you like these blogs let me here from you visit site webpage and after second paragraph There is a square box called Home inspector Directory. Go to rate site section. www.findmeaninspector.com

Basement Flooding

Basement flooding due to sewer backup is an all too frequent occurrence in certain areas during heavy rainstorms. Many people are not aware that they can modify the plumbing in their houses to positively prevent sewage from entering their basements. Three different approaches are common and the one you choose depends on the piping layout of your house.

Determine what plumbing arrangement your home has:

In the most basic type of basement plumbing, the basement drains are joined directly to the sewer pipe before it leaves the house. This plumbing is found in many older homes with basements and no sump pumps. Both sewage and footing drain water enter the sanitary sewer. Excessive footing drain flow
from a residence may or may not cause flooding in that particular home. The footing drain flow contributes to any sewer or basement flooding that may occur. Your home may also have one of the following basement plumbing enhancements. Whatever your current plumbing arrangement, there usually are further steps that can be taken to prevent basement flooding.

Three common plumbing upgrades

Upgrade #1: Add a Sump Pump

A sump pump is needed as part of any corrective measure. The sump pump removes the footing drain water from around the basement wall and discharges it to the surface of the ground, a ditch, or a storm sewer, depending on the surface grading around the house. Many communities require that new homes include sump pumps. Sump pumps in new homes usually discharge to the storm sewer system. To protect a basement from flooding due to sewer backup, the plumbing fixtures and floor drain in the basement also need to be disconnected from the municipal sewer. 

Upgrade #2: Add a Sump Pump and Valves

If a sump pump is not sufficient, a check valve and a shut-off valve can be installed to provide a good measure of protection from basement flooding. These valves can isolate the house plumbing from the public sewer in the street. The check valve includes a flapper that shuts when water level in the public sewer is high enough to flow back into the house. The shut-off valve can be manually closed as an added measure of protection. The shut-off valve will also need to be closed if debris becomes lodged in the check valve preventing its full closure.

The homeowner will need to discontinue or, at least, sharply curtail the use of the sanitary facilities while the potential for flooding exists. During this time, showers, the clothes washer, and dishwasher cannot be used. 

Upgrade #3: Add a Sump Pump and an Ejector Pump

An ejector pump can provide still further protection. An ejector pump can be installed to pump the sewage into the public sewer whether it is flooded or not. If there is a power failure, the homeowner will need to discontinue use of the sanitary facilities. Both the sump pump and the ejector pump can be installed

Accurate Home inspection of Atlanta                                                              www.findmeaninspector.com

CALL THe Reat Then Call the best. 14 yrs Municipality inspector. Open my own business since 1998. Over 6,000 home inspected and still counting.

In 2005, heating equipment was involved in an estimated 62,000 reported U.S. Home Structure
fires, with losses of 670 deaths,1550 injuries, and to the tune of 909 million in propert damage.
Homes refers to one-and-two-family dwellings. This includes mobile homes and town homes.Chimneys
and Flue connections accounted for about 32%.Home gas heating was 73% of deaths, and 64% injuries
and around 57% of propert Damage.

In 2005 Chimneys accounted for 93% of total home chimney fires or chimney connector fires. In 2000-2003there were 2.7 electrocutions deaths per year involving electric water heaters, and 1.8 electrocutions
from elctrical heaters.

As winter approches make sure for your familys safety not to cut corners due to a slow econmony, and fail
to have your systems inspected for proper installation, adeqaute repairs that may have been made. Have
system check for carbon monoxide leaks, adequate exhuast flues, no back drafting. It will not only be safefor your family it will save you money when your system is operating at its peak perform.64% of structure fires were the results of improper repairs.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta.              www.findmeaninspector.com

With recent heavy rain in the south east region it is easy to contaminate you drinking water!

Dug Wells

Dug wells are holes in the ground dug by shovel or backhoe. Historically, a dug well was excavated below the groundwater table until incoming water exceeded the diggers bailing rate. The well was then lined (cased) with stones, brick, tile, or other material to prevent collapse. It was covered with a cap of wood, stone, or concrete. Since it is so difficult to dig beneath the ground water table, dug wells are not very deep. Typically, they are only 10 to 30 feet deep. Being so shallow, dug wells have the highest risk of becoming contaminated.To minimize the likelihood of contamination, your dug well should have certain features. These features help to prevent contaminants from traveling along the outside of the casing or through the casing and into the well.

Dug Well Construction Features

• The well should be cased with a watertight material (for example, tongue-and-groove precast concrete) and a cement grout or bentoniteclay sealant poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well.
• The well should be covered by a concrete curband cap that stands about a foot above the ground.
• The land surface around the well should be mounded so that surface water runs away from the well and is not allowed to pond around the outside of the wellhead.
• Ideally, the pump for your well should be inside your home or in a separate pump house, rather than in a pit next to the well.

Land activities around a dug well can also contaminate it. While dug wells have been used as a household water supply source for many years, most are relics of older homes, dug before drilling equipment was readily available or when drilling was considered too expensive. If you have a dug well on your property and are using it for drinking water, check to make sure it is properly covered and sealed. Another problem relating to the shallowness of a dug well is that it may go dry during a drought when the ground water table drops.

Driven Wells

Like dug wells, driven wells pull water from the water-saturated zone above the bedrock. Driven wells can be deeper than dug wells. They are typically 30 to 50 feet deep and are usually located in areas with thick sand and gravel deposits where the ground water table is within 15 feet of the grounds surface. In the proper geologic setting, driven wells can be easy and relatively inexpensive to install. Although deeper than dug wells, driven wells are still relatively shallow and have a moderate-to-high risk of contamination from nearby land activities.

Driven Well Construction Features

• Assembled lengths of two inches to three inches diameter metal pipes are driven into the ground. Screened well point located at the end of the pipe helps drive the pipe through the sand and gravel. The screen allows water to enter the well and filters out sediment.
• The pump for the well is in one of two places: on top ofthe well or in the house. An access pit is usually dug around the well down to the frost line and a water dis-charge pipe to the house is joined to the well pipe with a fitting.
• The well and pit are capped with the same kind of large-diameter concrete tile used for a dug well. The access pit may be cased with pre-cast concrete.

To minimize this risk, the well cover should be a tight-fitting concrete curb and cap with no cracks and should sit about a foot above the ground. Slope the ground away from the well so that surface water will not pond around the well. If there's a pit above the well, either to hold the pump or to access the fitting, you may also be able to pour a grout sealant along the outside of the well pipe. Protecting the water quality requires that you maintain proper well construction and monitor your activities around the well. It is also important to follow the same land use precautions around the driven well as described under dug wells.

Drilled Wells

Drilled wells penetrate about 100-400 feet into the bedrock. Where you find bedrock at the surface, it is commonly called ledge. To serve as a water supply, a drilled well must intersect bedrock fractures containing ground water.

Drilled Well Construction Features

• The casing is usually metal or plastic pipe, six inches in diameter that extends into the bedrock to prevent shallow ground water from entering the well. By law, the casing has to extend at least 18 feet into the ground, with at least five feet extending into the bedrock. The casing should also extend a foot or two above the grounds surface. A sealant, such as cement grout or bentonite clay, should be poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well. The well is capped to prevent surface water from entering the well.
• Submersible pumps, located near the bottom of the well, are most commonly used in drilled wells. Wells with a shallow water table may feature a jet pump located inside the home. Pumps require special wiring and electrical service. Well pumps should be installed and serviced by a qualified professional registered with your state.
• Most modern drilled wells incorporate a pitless adapter designed to provide a sanitary seal at the point where the discharge water line leaves the well to enter your home. The device attaches directly to the casing below the frost line and provides a watertight subsurface connection, protecting the well from frost and contamination.
• Older drilled wells may lack some of these sanitary features. The well pipe used was oftene ight-, 10- or 12- inches in diameter, and covered with a concrete well cap either at or below the grounds surface. This outmoded type of construction does not provide the same degree of protection from surface contamination. Also, older wells may not have a pitless adapter to provide a seal at the point of discharge from the well.
 

A Drilled Well

Hydrofracting is a process that applies water or air under pressure into your well to open up existing fractures near your well and can even create new ones. Often this can increase the yield of your well. This process can be applied to new wells with insufficient yield and to improve the quantity of older wells.

How can I test the quality of my private drinking water supply?

Consider testing your well for pesticides, organic chemicals, and heavy metals before you use it for the first time. Test private water supplies annually for nitrate and coliform bacteria to detect contamination problems early. Test them more frequently if you suspect a problem. Be aware of activities in your watershed that may affect the water quality of your well, especially if you live in an unsewered area.

Human Health

What You Can Do...

In addition to the immediate area around your well, you should be aware of other possible sources of contamination that may already be part of your community or may be moving into your area. Attend any local planning or appeal hearings to find out more about the construction of facilities that may pollute your drinking water. Ask to see the environmental impact statement on the project. See if underground drinking water sources has been addressed. If not, ask why.

Common Sources of Potiental Ground Water Contamination

 

ACCURATE HOME INSPECTION OF ATLANTA                      404 680-4578

www.atlantainspectionnews.com

If your family gets drinking water from a private well, do you know if your water is safe to drink? What health risks could you and your family face? Where can you go for help or advice? EPA regulates public water systems; it does not have the authority to regulate private drinking water wells. Approximately 15 percent of Americans rely on their own private drinking water supplies, and these supplies are not subject to EPA standards, although some state and local governments do set rules to protect users of these wells. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the waters source and its quality before it is sent to the tap. These households must take special precautions to ensure the protection and maintenance of their drinking water supplies.

Basic Information

There are three types of private drinking water wells: dug, driven, and drilled. Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your state water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction. The well should be located so rainwater flows away from it. Rainwater can pick up harmful bacteria and chemicals on the lands surface. If this water pools near your well, it can seep into it, potentially causing health problems. Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. The contractor should be bonded and insured. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed in your state, if required. If your state does not have a licensing/registration program contact the National Ground Water Association. They have a voluntary certification program for contractors. (In fact, some states use the Associations exams as their test for licensing.) For a list of certified contractors in your state contact the Association at (614) 898-7791 or (800) 551-7379. There is no cost for mailing or faxing the list to you.

To keep your well safe, you must be sure possible sources of contamination are not close by. Experts suggest the following distances as a minimum for protection farther is better:

• Septic Tanks, 50 feet
• Livestock yards, Silos, Septic Leach Fields, 50 feet
• Patroleum Tanks, Liquid-Tight Manure Storage and Fertilizer Storage and Handling, 100 feet
• Manure Stacks, 250 feet

Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis levels. That can be expensive. Its better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your wells performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work.

Protect your own well area. Be careful about storage and disposal of household and lawn care chemicals and wastes. Good farmers and gardeners minimize the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Take steps to reduce erosion and prevent surface water runoff. Regularly check underground storage tanks that hold home heating oil, diesel, or gasoline. Make sure your well is protected from the wastes of livestock, pets, and wildlife.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta                  www.findmeaninspector.com

Cold winter weather brings cozy evenings, and an increase in the use of home heating equipment. It's probably time to give your heating system a safety check. Heating equipment failures or malfunctions are one of the leading causes of all home fires. We can reduce the occurrence of these types of fires with a little preventative maintenance and some good fire safety habits.

The following are some tips for safety around heating systems:

1. Never discard hot ashes inside or near the home. Place them in a covered metal container outside and well away from the house.
2. If you use a wood-burning stove or fireplace, have a licensed chimney sweep clean and inspect your chimney at least once a year.
3. Place a glass or metal spark screen in front of the fireplace and install caps on chimneys.
4. Never use a flammable liquid (gasoline, kerosene, lighter fluid, etc.) to start a fire or rekindle a small one.
5. Keep paper, clothing, trash, and other combustibles at least three feet away from your furnace, hot water heater, or wood-burning device.
6. Have a professional clean and inspected your heating system yearly. This may prevent a fire and will make your heating system more energy efficient.
7. Keep portable heaters away from curtains, beds, clothes, and children. Make sure there is at least three feet of clearance around the heater for proper ventilation. Turn heaters off when you leave the room or go to bed.
8. Never refuel the heater while it is operating or while it is still hot. Always refuel outside. Avoid overfilling.
9. Be sure your space heater has an emergency shut off in case the heater is tipped over.